Rollaboy2608

No worries you are obviously a professional, as your great command of the english language indicates. An electric pump is far more efficient, as it pushes the fuel rather than pulling it, and will pump up to 7 psi, which is enough required for a Holley/ supercharger setup. And if you read my comment properly(back to your amazing english skills) I never made mention of EFI pumps, although obviously you needed to so as to display your amazing automotive knowledge

I thought I would bring this up, as it seems to be a contentious issue. Someone used this word the other day, on a car that was clearly in good condition. A reply was posted saying that the word "overrated" or "overrated condition" should only be applied to older vehicles which are found to be exactly, or in some cases, extremely close to the way they left the showroom floor. Others use this term to describe any car (rolla's for the benefit of this forum) that looks remotely good to them. For example, I do not consider my car to be overrated, despite having a late model engine, new paint, and a new interior. It has been molested from the factory original, and is therefore modified, and not overrated. I tend to lean towards the former. Useless thread, or solid topic of discussion? you be the judge

Yeah, and I bet his mullet was flying in the breeze, as he cruised down route 66 in his f@$king LH Torrie. I can't stand that mentality!

with a blow through setup, to do it PROPERLY, (just emphasising that cos I know someone will say something) you really need to get the carb o-ringed, so the boost wont blow leaks in your flimsy gaskets. I'd keep an eye out on here, occasionally brackets for these come up for sale, or make your own. I'd also put an electric fuel pump on it, to ensure proper fuel supply. Some will say overkill, I prefer peace of mind, doing it right the first time etc etc

that is a good point tas, seems to be popular with the jap racing/drifting scene, and looks kinda racy, although I'm not sure how much benefit you'd actually gain from it, cos really you're letting some hot air escape, but not replacing t with cool air, so maybe in conjuction with a scoop, this could be effective

obviously your measurements are the key. bonnets are rarely flat, so its best to make some preliminary markings, then I normally use string, to measure out where i want the venting. If the bottom of the vent is flat, make a template(trace out the vent.) This will make it alot easier to get the exact shape you want. Its better to cut a little less out than too much. If you don't cut enough out, you can take out more. Cut out too much, and you will be left with ugly gaps. Also be careful about cutting into the actual framework of the bonnet. Most engineers wont pass the mod if the structure of the bonnet is comprimised. Cut slow, and try to use a cold cutting disc if you can. Super thin discs are best, as they generate very little heat. Heat will strip back or damage surrounding paint. You also need to check how the vent is mounted. Some require seperate drill holes, others mount close to the edge of the original vent hole, and require large washers or the like. Ive done a few scoops on top mount intercooled cars and some evo style vents, they are all different, so think it out and sketch it first. Hope this helps. Cheers, Nathan

possibly wheel bearing? you never mentioned whether you had adjusted it or checked its condition?

If its a standard KE55, then you must be dreaming if you think it goes super hard. Either that, or you need to get into something that is actually, fast

Many do post absolutely pointless items though..... The fact that the narrator is a Pom makes this vid so much more amusing, he sounds very official

its also one of the common causes for head gasket failure, because the coolant fails to remain in the heated areas long enough to absorb that heat, so the head in particular gets hotter and hotter even though the coolant passing it is cool

I have to concur here. The thermostat is often disregarded as an item you can do without, but personally I feel one that is working correctly is essential. As aforementioned, just get a new one, and stop being stingey!!

GTi definitely has different interior trim, and a slightly different tailight assembly. Also GTi had different wheels. No difference in engine specs though

yeah I guess, and to add to that, each carby seems to have almost its own "personality" whether rebuilt or not. Over time parts change their behaviour e.g warped throttle butterfly shafts etc, which can be hard to pick up on by the untrained eye

you may as well forget about it if you arent going to go wider, as this provides many benefits, including increased grip and improved steering response. If you're on a budget, and it sounds like you are, a set of 14x7 or 15x7 wheels will look better, and give you some slight performance enhancements as well in terms of road handling. In fact, 6 inches would probably be an improvement, as I would assume that a KE70 has pretty skinny wheels to begin with??

saw a KE70 wagon in Transformers the movie last night, when he goes to buy his car its in the yard

My previous experience with SU's are that they are extremely unreliable, and get out of tune very easily. Having said that, this was on a 1960 something XJ Jag, but the carbs were freshly rebuilt. Just got the tune right then it would come back running like a dog couple of months later.

no not at all, just cut off the cannon, and away you go. I had a cannon on my AE93, and the drone was was ridiculous. Just a shame that the muffler looked so good on the car. My ears would ring after a solid drive on the freeway

I paid $1600 for my 7K 3 years ago less alternator and a few other bits...and it's carbied as mentioned before. Everything is more expensive in Sydney its just a given

do you mean remove the muffler completely, without replacing it? yes it will be much louder, and attract even more cops

man she is hot as..... I would never throw my missus in pics like that the comments would give me the shits hehe

I have a carbied 7K in my rolla, great starting point, because you already have 1.8L of capacity to play with. Its been proven over many many years that capacity is the easiest way to gain power without forced induction. It also makes the vehicle far more driveable, as you don't need to wring the neck of the motor to get power from it. My car is extremely torquey and blows a standard 3K out of the water.

good starting platform mate, we don't see alot of these over here at all. Sometimes the best motivation is provided by the death of a loved one, so just run with it! Doubt you'll have too many problems with a T50, unless you're going for big power

well, who's to say the belt isnt extremely worn? or the tensioner isnt worn? it happens quite a bit, it would still be wise to pull the top cover off and have a look. Takes all of 5 seconds

correct me if I'm wrong, but doesnt the 4A-C engine have a timing belt? the belt may have skipped a few teeth, all your symptoms point to that

need more info on the box. Did you put in the box that came with the motor? was your old box ok? is the clutch cable actually attached? does it have oil in it? check the basics firstly, rather than pulling things apart unecessarily. That intake story, IMO, is bull. Smooth is always better. By having rough ports, it increases turbulence yes, which also slows down flow. Technically, you should always have the head machined, to ensure there arent any inconsistencies with the mating surface. On the other side, I've seen a few K series heads thrown on with machining without ever having a problem. But for probably less than $100 to have it crack tested and machined, its piece of mind I reckon