greenmac80

Man I'm awesome lol.... haha na well we were busy! '

haha see this is what i mean.... thats an awesome idea but to most people attempting the conversion won't do that. easier jst to mod the gearbox mount or make a new one.. but in saying this... wanna make me one of those pulleys?????

if you look through the photos in my thread it gives you an idea. mind you the photos don't show the sensor with a cover on it as i didn't own one at the time. but without COMPLETELY removing everything dizzy related and pluggin the hole there is no way to use the standard g box x member out of an ae71...(without mods) welding a plate in there most likely won't work as a cap has to bolt down at the back of the head. so the o ring seal stuff needs to be the go. a lot of people wouldn't think of that option to remove it entirely because then you will have to move the sensor somewhere else still even more stuffing about. one option is a trigger wheel on the harmonic balancer but SamQ has informed me that that will induce 'batch fuel fire'? causing up to a 15% increase in fuel consumption... i myself will probably try and plug the hole now, (as i never thought of it) but still gotta try and find a way to get a firing signal. i guess when trying to let people know how to do the 20v conversion you always try to keep it as simple as you can... so this is probably why i've never thought of doing it nor have i ever seen it done.

metal stretch definately. if you get a look like the orange one it'll be shit hot

ok jst a question for you AE25 if you reckon to get rid of the cam angle sensor how would you propose sealing off the gaping hole you'd have in the back of the head? also i tried to bolt up my 20v with the standard g/box x member and it worked just... but i didn't have a cover over the sensor wheel so once you add the cover it wouldn't work. i have tthe photos of the damage i did to my firewall trying to jam it in there. cuzzo: if you have definiative answers that cannot be proven wrong then please clarify. i'm not tryin to be smart, just asking as you have a good knowledge of 16v Ke30 etc.

mine was def a maunal and the x member was from a manual using 2 bolts. 1 either side. and fits just fine. also another member on here has a ke35 4agze also uses a standard ae71 gearbox x member for his 16v conversion.

won't be there due to holding my house warming party

weird....... i have an ae71 gearbox x member here and it bolts up to my chassis no worries... i thought KE30/55 were the same?

well i'd like to be proven wrong beacuse then it would mean i could just go and get another ae71 and use that since it'd be lighter than the one i designed. but since i've been through it and had to design both my gearbox mount and my enigne mounts i don't think it can be done, unless you have like 1mm clearance. and even then.... if you look at pictures of a ke30/55 4a 16v conversion the motor sits really close to the firewall. when you delete the dizzy cap your still left with the base and the Cam angle sensor there and also of course you need a cover for the wheel which adds more to the back of the head. but with my mounts there is a 10mm gap from the cover to the firewall. and still the gearbox mount was out by 15mm and thats with the x member flipped around to bring it forward more.

i should add that the ae71 gearbox x member will be a direct change over with a 16v 4age but for a 20v it needs modifying

No an ae71 x member will not bolt straight up. will need modifying otherewise anyone whos done a 4age in to KE30/55 etc. will have done it. custom mounts are needed for the engine however the ae71 gearbox x member will bolt up just fine. 3t gte will make the car quicker due to being turbo. 4age is a newer engine and aftermarket support is huge for them.

go on www.club4ag.com a store on there is selling ARIAS forgies for $449 US + i think approx $30US shipping. that comes with rings as well. with our current exchange rate it ends up quite cheap for forged pistons and rings.

110 on p's??? eek careful popo may be watching. but still 2 hrs or 50 hrs shouldn't matter if everthing has been looked after

if u use all arp hardware and forged internals you should be pretty safe with up to 10 psi i would think and due to the high compression the power figure will be pretty healthy and offf boost you'll still have plenty of response. if your gonna spin it harder than say 8400 you have to shim the oil pump to get enough pressure.

ATTKD seem to have been use by some skyline owners succsessfully did some searching on forums. only thing there is another brand on ebay... maxspeedingrods. i can't seem to find anything on em so i'd stay away from them i reckon. if you want to build the motor to rev much past 8600 rm i'd definately go with forged rods standard rods in any form won't put up with it. and if they do it won't be for long. also as for boosting it all depends on how much boost and how much compression. if the compression is like 8:1 and your gonna run 1 bar i would expect standard rods to survive for a long time. if your gonna go with 9:1 or 10:1 i'd definately be getting forged.

ATTKD rods and products seem to have a good reputation. actualy distributed by AUTECH aus. i think or is an offshoot of AUTECH they look the goods anyways. but bear in mind for that money you can get SPOOL rods which are a known high quality brand.

yeah tray is scratched some contributing factor from north as well.

ok been ages but i've doing things here and there... well i purchased a full 20v set of ARP head bolts for a measly sum of $215! also using this thread here..... http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41688 i've made myself and electronic speedo sender. also to keep with the theme of my car and smoothing things out a bit.... i've decided to shave the vents on my bonnet... i've done more work since these pictures but man.... it isn't easy to get straight! also... i've jst moved into my own home... so this is my rollas new home!! enclosed.. YAY!!!!! and my own shed!!! in the picture above you can see steelies!! these are holden VE 16" rims! i scored 6 of these. the plan is to use a SAAB 16" space saver centre and get them put into these bands. also i got 6 so i can get 2 of them widened! cheers!

pretty sure your supposed to jam those pins in the window seal?

my bargain would have to be my rotisserie... picked that up for $100 also an ols compressor belt driven thingo weighs about 300kg and has one hella big tank for $20!

not worth putting it back together a bit of work for nothing.... it'll probs run but the rings definately won't last if they work at all

acrylic is perfect for DIY painter. its easy to apply. but acrylic is soft so a 2 pack clear is needed.

of you want someone to sort you out go to pedders suspension in morphett vale its on bains rd. the guy there is a corolla nut!

i go the set from livadee or watever they are called for my 55 the door ones fit fairly well not perfect but still better than 20+yr old rubbers. not sure bout windscreen ones yet.

better offset?? only thing you can really do is use spacers.... but dodgy unless you get longer studs. mx5 seats? what model mx5? cos my missus has one and the seats are half the size of standard corolla ones.