parrot

Refer Page 2 http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49424-toyota-te71-gt/page__st__15 You still live waaayy over in WA don't you

That's hella close! I'll let you know how I get on.........

Cheers Evan I'll give them a go.

I'm not hugely fussed with this car if colour match isn't perfect. A longtime ago I did the hatch in cans and whilst close, it isn't perfect. If I was doing the whole car, well then things would probably be done different, but not for two panels. I did think of taking the two panels in to a panel shop and getting them done there, but I am keen to learn how to do these things. Both panels are off and easy to managae size wise. I have prepped the guard, and the sunroof just needed a couple of deep scratches dealt with. The Inside of the sunroof is perfect so can get the colour matched to that. Realistically, if I screw it up, I can take it all off and take them to a panel shop. The two small rust repair areas are on the underside of the bonnet and in a door shut. I gather spray cans are acrylic, and when I have touched up little things in the past, it has always gone on happily. Candy apple red, I don't think so! I'm near Heidelberg if anyone knows a decent place to buy paint near there

So because I'm a bit of a numpty when it comes to paint, I thought I would ask here. Have been touching up a few minor rust repairs on my AE86, and also need to spray a guard and respray my sunroof panel. I thought I may get away with using spraycans rather than pulling the supercheap spraygun from its box, but the cans gave a shit finish to my repair areas so have realised I need to go with a "proper" job. Plus despite supposedly being the right code, the colour isn't right. That I can understand, as they can only have so many colours in a can. I appreciate there are lots of variables with gun types, air flowed, paint to thinner ratios etc etc. Not really asking about that stuff. What I don't know, is what to ask for when I go into the paint shop. The finish is factory, although the sunroof was a later replacement and sprayed (I don't know what with) at a panel place years ag when having some accident damage repaired. Do I just go in and ask for this much acrylic in paint code 3E6, and this much thinners? Or is there more to it than that? And how much would I ask for?

That's true, but not sufficient to cause problems to this extent.

This is Al Palmer's car palmer 1001.pdf Other than this one, there is one other in Melbourne that gets out pretty regularly. There was also another created from a halfcut many years ago in Victoria, but I have no idea what happened to that car. Possibly that is masquerading as a genuine car. Kehendo: just saw your post above nearly 3 years late. If you manage to arrange this, make sure I'm there too!

Here's where to start http://www.yellowpages.com.au/ Australia is a big place. Probably best to look for wreckers / part recyclers who specialise in your manufacturer of choice. I suspect you are in for a difficult time

AUSTRALIAN DESIGN RULE 83/00 EXTERNAL NOISE UNIFORM PROVISIONS CONCERNING THE APPROVAL OF MOTOR VEHICLES HAVING AT LEAST FOUR WHEELS WITH REGARD TO THEIR NOISE EMISSIONS "The air filter is considered as a component only if its presence is essential to ensure observance of the prescribed sound-level limits." So from that, possibly not the reason. BUT, it would get down to registration and police interpretation of that rule......... And if so, you're screwed! Whatever, there have been multiple examples that have demonstrated conclusively that an exposed pod filter has numerous deficiencies and that boxing it in is a better idea.

Not so sure about that. In a box of some sort or not, there are still fuel vapours and oxygen. So if it will catch fire, it is going to do so regardless of any enclosure.

I'm not sure, but I think the legislation is there to reduce noise pollution.

Sorry Rian I can't comment on my combo as has not been on the road in that config yet. I arbitrarily bought some 6kg fronts but am expecting I may need to go a bit softer. If you use the T3 spacers, (which incorporates the correct gland nut thread to suit the AGX's) you should be able to get pretty low without bottoming them out.

The only cheap thing you can do, assuming you can do the work yourself, is to put a thinner metal head gasket on it. Extractors are fairly cheap but not really necessary. An exhaust is worthwhile but presumably you already have that, hoepfully you didn't go too big. Cams are expensive, headwork expensive, much more duration and you need aftermarket computers. etc etc

Not sure if anyone was watching the WRC Access All Areas on the weekend, but as part of the 1000 Lakes coverage, they visited Jari Matti's home. In his special garage, there were 3 cars: A Didier Auriol Corolla WRC, a replica Henri Toivonen Chrysler Sunbeam (not a Lotus - earlier version), but most interesting of all - an AE86! Unfortunately the AE86 was the only one they didn't talk about. He did have other sheds containing a BDG Mark 2 escort http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ji6tsNfJ3kQ as well as a rather nice workshop where he was building up a Makinen Evo 3 or 4 replica. It's hell being a rally star....

Yep. It's all about matching your spring rates to your damper setting. Your inserts should be fine, but the spring is way to hard.

If you go here, you can download the engine diagnosis book which includes breakdowns of the various wiring systems. This has the various sensors and how to check them. I gather you have a bitsa loom, so you are not going to be able to rely on following the diagnostic charts, but it may give you a clear path to follow. The trap in your situation, is randomly swapping parts in and out expecting to fix the issue. That is unlikely as these components rarely fail. The problem will be something basic like timing (dizzy set up incorrectly or cam timing), TPS not adjusted properly, or incorrect wiring. The way to trace your problem is to approach it systematically.

Put softer springs in

I'm pretty sure I'll be there this time, but probably not for dinner.

If you go here, you can download the USDM electrical diagram book, Europe & ROW electrical diagram book, and the engine diagnosis book which includes breakdowns of the various wiring systems. Not sure if the last one includes the AFM cars, but see how you get on. All of these cover the AE86 in SR5 and GTS models

These are the paper gaskets from the 2TG full engine set, with the exception of the inlet manifold gasket which I have lent out. I'll put this up when I have it. 2TG paper gaskets.pdf

Very nice, loving the Enkei's. Let me know re the filter housing, may be interested, though I think my later car has a glass bowl.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-12302-29016-Corolla-1100-1200cc-Mtr-Mounts-68-74-/380326192502?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item588d352576

I don't know the answer, but when you fix it, make sure you change your oil, as it is probably has quite a bit of petrol in it.

That's pretty cool. Hopefully it will sit permanently in the red zone, except at traffic lights. But yes, all you need to do is connect it to an outlet from your inlet manifold, much like a brake booster, though obviously a smaller take off port. Use reasonably firm, non collapsible plastic tubing between the manifold and gauge.

Agreed, The perimeter is longer so you would need to buy extra seals and attempt joining them. This is my plan with the KE25 boot seals. If necessary, I may try adding in a section to make it work in the KE15. But when the seal is only $USD30, it's worth a punt. Of note, the boot seal provided by the Thai sellers is supposed to suit both KE2x and KE1x Joel is very definitely not Phil's Rotary. Joel runs Toysport in the USA.