Medicine_Man
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Everything posted by Medicine_Man
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Here are some photos of how bad the gasket was last weekend when I replaced it..
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Teddy's white KE70 had some rust coming back out around the fuel filler lid so we decided the other weekend to give it another bash and bog to make it look a bit more respectable. Started to peel off the bubbling rust and we gave it a good grind back so we could slap some fibreglass bog into it. Then it had another layer of body filler and a coat of undercoat put over it.
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Plenty of threads on this before, Going to close it before you get flamed, Search hard enough and you will find it..
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Already answered by me before on the FAQ - Install a circuit opening relay.. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...ng_Relay_Wiring
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You have to be impressed with that :jamie:
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Some of them are battery and power for your fuel pump.. also speed sensor / a/c idle up etc.. http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...ies/ECU_Pinouts http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...Wiring_Diagrams
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Nicks old KE70 did that once, Make sure that the signal wire does not short on the battery wire.. Other than that it could possibly be an internal problem..
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Just using normal high-tensile bolts, Will get some pictures for you on the weekend..
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What engine is this starter on? I saw an AE82 at work the other day with a broken circlip in the solenoid which in turn fried all the battery wiring because inside the solenoid the contact shorted to ground..
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4AGE = Wide Angle head 4AFE = Narrow Angle head GE will rev better than the FE Pretty much the same motor so the head gasket won't be a great drama to do..
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Neat little conversion, Thats going to shock a few people!
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Found part of my problem today when I went to fix my gasket. Turns out the bolt on #4 exhaust was GONE! Pulled everything apart, Cleaned it, goo'd gasket, loctited bolts, tightened it, warmed it up, retightened it. So hopefully now its fixed the problem.. Will upload some pics of what the gasket looked like when my internet is no longer capped..
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Idle is good scince I dropped it in to have the carbs balanced and tuned. Had a problem with some bolts unwinding and f@$king the gasket in the process. Fixed the gasket problem today and loctite on the bolts hopefully have solved the problem.. Ran them up some more when the engine was warm so hopefully its all good now *touches wood*
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Engine looks like it is sitting fine, Think you are being overly critical myself..
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Sounds similar to a problem we had with a Chrysler Neon in at work during the week. The alternator light would come and go as well as the dash dropping power. Turns out it was the negative battery terminal causing the grief. Boss only noticed it when the terminal blew a small puff of smoke, Replaced the terminal and all was good..
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My setup still has a problem with #2/3 exhaust ports matching to the head properly. The bolts have a bad habbit of unwinding, they have a 14mm head and I had to customise a spanner to be able to tighten or undo the bolts.. My setup uses offset washers to put pressure on the extractors as they are not as thick as the intake manifold..
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No need to grave dig the past, Start a new thread..
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Todays update: Installed fuel tank and connected fuel lines under the rear end..
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Looks like a pretty clean car, Good base to start a project with..
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My car had similar problems due to a vacuum leak (on a cold start, it would pop, crackle and backfire). Best take it to a workshop that knows how to tune them too, They have to be balanced or the car runs like shit..
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Keep your eye out on ebay, They come up from time to time..
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like this?
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So you are putting a 2T into it?
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Is It About Now I Should Feel Old?
Medicine_Man replied to Teddy's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
Gee, Happy Birthday, How did I miss this thread? -
Well if its anything similar to a KE70, The top 3 are relays, the bottom block is where you plug your wiring in to go to your alternator/regulator etc.
