Medicine_Man
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Everything posted by Medicine_Man
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There are a few pics of this one floating around..
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Here is a picture of my extractors, Purchasable from Anthony Kellam (Kaizen Garage) in Brisbane. They are supposed to be TRD copies..
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The final coat of clear is a 2 Pak ISO free paint, Means 2 Pak with out all the bad chemicals..
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Well last week dad finished spraying the last coat on the car and put the clear on. Its had a while to settle and dry, Got a few runs in the clear here and there but most of it should come out when it is polished now. So yesterday we began to re-assemble the car, Looks good for an off the gun finish..
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Thats cool how you hid the CD player to keep the original look.. Nice project :y:
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This may be of some help..
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Did I say it was fully sealed? No of course not, But it will be enough to slow the burn down if fire does start inside provided you are not stupid enough to go opening it. If the side of the car is ripped out I think you will have other worries at hand..
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Also the fact the surge tank is in the boot (being a sealed unit), You would have to worry about it leaking out onto the ground first.. Fires need oxygen to burn..
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Its got to do with the metalics in the paint and how you spray the last coat, last coat is a dust coat and is not as heavy as the prior coats..
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Actually we had some problems with the paint going mottled, The old boy had a chat with one of the painters where he works so we could find out how to fix it. Turns out we had to knock the paint back again so it could be resprayed. Will look ten times better with the 2 Pac clear over the top I can promise you..
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Because if the bearing shits itself then it will f@$k your new timing belt and you have to do it all again..
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Actually side by side there is a difference between the K40 and K50 clutch forks..
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What was the last electrical thing you touched in the car before the problem appeared?
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One of the guys I used to work with up the coast made one too. He actually got an old arcade shell to put it into.
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Nice work, Same thing I've done to my AE86 :ninja:
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Tried a new set of points? Had this problem with my car once, The tab that opens and closes the points from the distributer shaft had snapped and the points were not opening..
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Like I said, Wire in a circuit opening relay to control the pump.. *shakes head*
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Battery Isolator switch you are thinking of.. Should be able to wire a circuit opening relay to the fuel pump via the ECU..
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They 13" or 14" in Australia here the 13" would come off a KE70/AE71 Corolla CSX, 14" Would come off a Corona..
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ROFL, I must have missed you, What were you driving?
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4a-c Alternator Issues!!!!!!!!
Medicine_Man replied to superbmobile's topic in AExx Corolla Discussion
I think jason is spot on the money there, The 4A-C alternators have an external regulator, Not built into the alternator like 4KC or many other alternators.. -
I don't see a problem with mounting coilpacks there..
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You need Teddy's MOFO breaker bar..
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I once accidently left my ratchet on the crank when I was adjusting the dizzy on the 4AC in my sprinter, went to start it and after I got it running, noticed the ratchet and bolt lying on the concrete.. Somehow the ratchet managed to hit the swaybar and it wound it off.. Best way to get it off is to key it over with a breaker bar like nick said.. We had that fun with his 4AC to replace his timing belt when he first got his AE71..
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Best way is like what Teddy suggested with water..
