Medicine_Man

After clear coat..

Well yesterday the doors/guards/bonnets were rubbed back and the inner/undersides painted. Another 2 Weeks time and the external of the hanging panels and the body of the car will be the same colour.

All tongues should be generic from what I understand..

From what I understand it helps stop the oil pooling in the head the way it lays. From what I've heard you can swap one engine mount on to the other side and fabricate a new mount for the other. Also you will have to modify the gearbox crossmember mount too..

This problem sounds similar to what my AE86 is doing. I think its a problem of the spring not returning the throttle body to being 100% shut. Also possibly an adjustment on the throttle body and throttle position sensor.. Let me know what you find..

I think I've seen people put some rubber over them in case someone is hit they hit the rubber instead of metal..

Looking nice, Keep us updated when you get the 4AGE in :hmm:

Pretty sure smallports all have red cam cover lettering "red top" but to confuse you even more AW11 MR2's have "red top" bigport heads.. The red lettering is probably a better indication that the block is the later "7 Rib" block.. yes the smallports were released in the AE92 SX Corollas, A Jap 100KW motor may have a better tuned ECU as the Japanes fuel is better than the shit we get over here. Pretty much the same as the Aus 86KW and the Jap 88KW 4AGE tuned ECUs.. Possible to find the LSD but somewhat rare from what i understand?

The primer was a bit thin in a few places and we rubbed through it, So those areas were re-primed and the body also had the seams sealed..

Quick update, Car prep for painting is finally underway. Today the old boy, Matt and I were busy rubbing back the guidecoat on the body..

I had my KE70 heater core die a while back, was wondering why my clutch foot was getting hot water on it.. Had to take half the dash apart to get it out and replace it with one my uncle had spare luckily. Heaters are good in winter and when it is raining to demist the window, Apart from that you can just bypass them like everyone else suggested..

Take them bot to someone that has a air compressor and a rattle gun, Will get the nuts off so much easier..

Gee I can't believe I've missed so much of your recent progress.. Looks like its coming along great :lol:

Coming along nicely..

As long as you knock the top off the paint and it is decent body filler you shouldn't have any great dramas. Preparation is the key, You don't have to go back to bare metal on everything. This is just a tidy up of the worst rust so that it will pass RWC.

It looks so much better in that last pic where it is primed ;)

Yeah, Nick was telling me about this after he did his sticker cutting course, I'm sure he'd love to give it a go on a car one day..

http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?tit...er_%26_Dellorto

Shotgun a ride in the newly improved KE70 :jamie:

Use the search function spoon feeder, The information is all there..

I wouldn't go anything other than genuine Toyota..

I've seen my old man fix worse, looks like its just a rear 1/4. Be thankful you got out in one piece..

Just set the motor to top dead centre (Take the oil cap off and you will see the recess in the top of the intake cam) That lets you know that its on top dead centre. Then make sure the two dots on the cam gears line up with the marks on the backing plate. Check that the crankshaft lines up with the dot on the oil pump body. I marked my old belt with whiteout so I could be sure it went on exactly the same..

On a stock motor yes, Not on a worked motor with different pistons. Following is a link to what I remember Josh Young saying.. http://www.initialdrift.com.au/forums/view...sc&start=45 "in the rush to get it done on saturday, at 9pm sata night josh starts car to test and discovers theres no oil pressure................... the car had run for about 3 mins and then just stopped dead.............. turns out that the LOW oil pressure, (there was some as there was very little damage to any bearings or cam seats ect) caused the exhaust cam to stick, which then, as the engine was running, caused the cam gear to shear off the locating pin into the cam.......... now chain reaction says that the valves are stopped, not normally an issue in a 4age, as they are clearance engines, but this motor has high top pistons and the valves touch the pistons.............. this was only discovered AFTER i had half pulled the engine apart, found the broken pin, the reassembled with a new pin to discover low comp in number 1 cylinder........ "

I've only ever heard of a modified 4AGE having a problem, Pretty sure stock 4AG(Z)Es should not have a problem..