irokin

Theres no reason you shouldn't be able to get good economy from an aisan carby. I'm getting 7.3L/100km in my KE70 week in week out and I certainly don't drive like a grandma. Thats with all the emissions gear still connected and working as well.

Guys I'll allow this to continue on the condition that you RESIZE your images. Theres no need for 2mb images. Unless the cameras an SLR the lens and sensor usually isn't good enough to justify a file size that large.... and so it chews up the servers disk space (expensive) with no real gain.

Part of the reason it got dumped was because of the abusers. So you have them to thank for it no longer existing. If you want to leave feature requests I might start coding a new system over the next few weeks....however I suspect I'll be very busy with work so progress will be slow.

I hope you realise a custom crank is going to be at least $4k+. Custom pistons around $1800 and custom rods about that much again. So $7600 just for pistons rods and crank. Man what a waste of money! Seriously forget the forged parts...you don't need them. Get a 5K, this will save you having to stuff around with bore sizes and stroking. Then just rebuild it with cast pistons and standard crank and rods. There are people on here making well over 100hp with these sorts of parts... its all in the preparation. Where you need to focus your attention then is the head, camshaft, induction and exhaust.

If you prepay (before the Thursday) $90 + $55 for an yearly AASA licence.

The problem with posting this link all over the net is it gets their PR up on Google. I would put money on that as the only reason they haven't deleted it yet.

haw haw :cool: I could probably knock something up in an afternoon but...eh...lazy

Truck != air and you cannot compare the two as such. I have run a bigport manifold on a small port head. Made no difference. Definitely no engine runaways!

I think you'll have a very hard time getting this off the ground. Theres a guy in QLD thats trying to get a JDM racing series up and running. Its open to ANY car made in Japan as long as its still has a Japanese engine. From what I understand the turnout wasn't great and the numbers were made up by MX5 club members. You've restricted yourself even further than that guy by going for a single chassis and engine combination. I think your best bet would be to tack yourself onto Saturday afternoon sprints or Time attack and run with their format and compare times at the end of the day. It wont be door to door racing but it'd be a start. If you want door to door racing then you're throwing another stick into the works. You could still tack yourself onto an event like top gear or even the JDM series but then you require a roll cage (cams approved), harness, kill switch, fire extinguisher, race suit and a few other things. So the cost to get into the event in the first place would most likely rule many people out. I think you should just get out to the next SAS (September 15th, I should be there) and have a go first.

The old version wont be returning. If it does make a come back I'll write a new version that uses the forums user database.

Please turn caps lock OFF in future. I agree with Jordan but, you're wasting your time trying to supercharge it. Just stick a turbo on it... *waits for someone to start crapping on about lag*

"Did you see that? That fken garden bed came out of no where!!"

http://www.tighecams.com.au/COROLLA3K.htm Good place to start :D

Try pulling the vac advance off the distributor. I had (and still have) a similar problem but removing the distributor vacuum advance line fixes it. Worth a shot.

If you get a remap definitely get it tuned properly. The off the shelf tunes are pretty average. Below is a GRiD off the shelf tune on an SR20. It wasn't something I purposely looked for just needed an ECU to get the car running. As you can see the AFRs are a bit shonky but it made good power on 12psi. The RB20 AFM will just flow more air i.e. less restriction. http://www.irokin.com/gallery/picKLE-cache...a172kws_640.JPG

Is that GRIMAS?? or what used to be anyway...

Yea it is intentional turned off for several areas.

Have you got the little plastic spacer?

I would advise against it. All you're doing is telling the ECU theres less air going into the engine and thats only going to end in tears (on the side of the road in a puddle of oily coolant probably). The fuel cut defenders work in a similar fashion. The next best option would be to get a remap. They're not perfect and certainly can't replace a full ecu but it will remove your fuel cut and speed cut and let you run the higher boost in relatively more safety. Theres a mob on nissansilvia selling them for $200 but I would most certainly get that one remapped :P.

can't reproduce it yet. Can you screenshot it for me?

But the good cars don't start till almost 3pm anyway!

Cusco sell two types of strut tops for the AE86. Reduced castor and normal versions.

We'll have to sus out a new supplier for stickers but I'll keep everyone updated.

Work Meister S1. About $3-5k a set new. $1700 for knockoff rims...I say he got ripped off.

Oh...this could be a problem. Nick no longer has any involvement with rollaclub whatsoever. I imagine your ordered some time before the 7th? Please email me with full details and I'll try to sort things out. (irokin at rollaclub)