altezzaclub

Have you started a build thread on it? Somewhere so we can see what you're planning and what parts you have...

Does the oil light go out instantly when you start it?? Does the oil light glimmer a little at idle when warm?? The oil pump is at its worst when going slowly at idle, so any lack of oil pressure will be noticed then. Even worn bearings are more noticeable at idle, so it could be that. Is it a distinct heavy clonk, not a tapping sound? Culprits could be big end bearings, main bearings, piston ring broken or small end bearing.... or a tappet problem, but none of them are really at such a long interval. Timing chain would be another suspect, it may rattle evey couple of seconds as it whips the slack in and out. They go silent under load. I did have a ring break and it tapped away at the lights suddenly one day then vanished. Wheh it came back the week after it was very noticeable and had eaten a hole in the edge of the piston!

I would've thought the runaway throttles in the USA would have put people off handing your life over to a cheap computer... The Altezza is not sharp in its rev up & down, its a funny semi-DBW where it has a cable and a complicated motor/sensor setup in the throttle body. The KE70 on twin Sus on the other hand... :)

NRMA badge in the grille, dashboard fold-out sun thingy, definately original rims & tyre size, tiny exhaust tip, always clean and polished... then wear a hat and a grey wig!

The box is probably the same except for the 5th added on, and if you spend most your time driving at 80kph or less the 5th won't do much. The early 4speeds had a higher 2nd gear, so they were actually better than the later ones. Do a compression test and see which is the best motor.

in real life the admin is a parking meter nazi ! I wonder if they're going to pretend the BRZ-86 is all-Subaru??

Can an egineer make one for you at that price?? I've just had my local general engineer lathe me up a spacer in aluminium (although the first one he did was brass) about 30mm diam by 20mm long. It holds the cross-hatched bit on the shaft here with a certain freeplay, replacing a circlip. He machined it up and threaded the inside of the shaft to the allen screw he had. That was $30, although i told him he was mad & gave him $50.

Sounds like a tractor until it really gets going.... certainly no screamer... Big steering wheel Drifts nicely! Although he always throws it in... Some massive understeer at 7.21 "Well under 30grand" We shall see.... Power steering?? He didn't say. No doubt Top Gear will have one too.

sv21... pffft... fwd!

Discs on the rear will not give you better braking. ..and if you do somethng to get more rear brakes you will lock up the rears and spin unless you limit them back to where they are... We used to run larger rear slave cylinders and better rear shoes, as we wanted the rears to lock up in gravel rallying. The only reason to go disc was that they are faster to change pads on, and the giant disadvantage is the pathetic handbrake that discs have. Front brakes do 80% of the braking, so you upgrade those until they over-ride the tyres and lock them up, then you can easily upgrade the read drums to match.

-that's all you need. Anything that will fit will do, then worry about the noise after you've tried it. If you have a welder you can always cut one side of the muffler open, re-arrange the insides and weld the panel back up. I did a few just to see what was inside and removed the diversion valve spring on one of them.

Got a wiring diagram?? Got a multimeter?? If not, you are so far from the solutions that no-one is going to be able to help! Does the "dual standard" you mention mean "dual pin"?? So they have two tabs of lead on the bottom for two wires....??

Its very simple- it depends on how much fabrication you can do yourself, and what you want the car to do. Any 4cyl will fit, some just cost more than others. First up, any motor you buy is likely to need a couple of grand spent on it before you even fit it. Rings and bearings etc, we're talking 20years of wear here... Obviously a K motor is easiest and can be done for a couple of grand. 4K, 5K or 7K. It will make a quick little daily. One of the SOHC motors would be next, the old 4A etc, cheap as no-one else wants them. Last would be the twincams, 4AGE or Nissans, but it will set you back 10grand unless you can do a lot yourself. Pick up a partly-done project from soneone who was too optimistic in what it would cost. There are always quite a few for sale, people run out of money or enthusiasm.

That's pretty tough, as cool factor means the nice stuff is expensive.... Celica, early BMW, Datsun 1600, early Volvo, Mercedes, Jags The unwanted, unloved but perfectly adequate are much cheaper- Corona, Pintara/Skyline/Bluebird, Mitsibushi, Datsun 200B... and if you don't want to worry about dents it will have to be from the 'unwanted, unloved' catagory!

Religion is an important part of many people's private life, but like the last 400 Christian years there is no reason to have it involved in politics. The libertarian's basic tenant about the non-initiation of force means people/Govt could neither force you to take notice of a religion nor ban it. If we're working with people's rational self-interest to make society work then religion comes a distinct second place to politics, as 'rational' doesn't fit at all ! The Americans are pretty weird, but I think their ideas of the Church doing charity and not the Govt is important. The idea that some people can be robbed at gunpoint to support other people is the opposite of voluntary charity. Their Constitution was stunning at the time and wrote down some very clear rules of how a Govt should relate to its people, yet they have burnt it to ashes in the time since. The French also started off with great ideas yet now they are a Socialist basket-case. However they have been enough to demonstrate that a vaguely free-market capitalism is the best way to advance people's standard of living compared to a theorcracy like a Muslim country.

The 4.3 diff out of an auto would lower third, or the older 4speed gearbox has a higher 2nd. Enjoy!

Ah- I've been harassing radio stations & newpapers for years with the same opinions! ..and actually I was one of the founder group that started the NZ Libertarianz party, so we have been watching the Govts extend their powers for quite some years. Anarcho-capitalists tend to be older, so we don't run around protesting and screaming like Socialists/Anachists, they are the ones rioting all over the place wanting more handouts. Its the old problem that Govts are torn down by young people with nothing to lose, who then let an identical Govt back in! Sadly, you have to be old to have a long enough vision of how things use to be and what direction they are going in, then by that time you're too old to do anything to stop it! Maybe some youngsters will tie the different stories together and see what Govt is really about, then they can tackle it! Govts are certainly making it as hard as possible to unseat them, and their technology, money, and manpower are widening the power gap between rulers and theri subjects. The constant fear-mongering and bribery they use limits the number of people who realise we can do without them. The middle-class are too scared to consider looking after themselves and the poor would never give up the handouts.

..and don't forget the CA20 in my R31 Pintara!! Very torquey, (means it doens't rev... :laff: ) and already in RWD configuration with the Nissan 5speed on it. Evey wrecker has them! We were given the wagon for free, the owner couldnt get anyone to buy it, and its been great. Its the famly daily & on its third trip to Queensland from Orange as we speak, and has never broken down.

...and they STILL turn up!! Real granny-spec cars! Sounds a great score, don't do anything to it you can't reverse in 5years!

Well, don't get too carried away... We're not building racing cars, we just want a 16-valve to bolt onto a stock bottom end! So, we need to build a head around common gear, 4AGE or even newer stuff. Cams, cam gears, valves, followers, guides seals... all off the shelf stuff. Keep the dizzy, and the original cam to drive the oil pump, don't upright it- there's only an exhaust on that side now! The hardest thing I see is to run the water pump and serpentine belt on the front Can we have a chain that drives the original cam plus the two new ones. Filfrederick has the most knowledge of what needs to be done- can we build it cheaper around a purpose-designed head Phil?

... and while we are protecting the poor public, the terrible terrorism that has seen thousands of innocents killed in Aussie and NZ means that we must X-ray everyone who flies between these two countries. No opt-out to be groped by some queer faggot, it's "get irradiated or don't fly". I'm sure you all feel so much safer now... So get on your knees bitches, The Man has told you to! NZ x-rays start in a couple of months. (Sorry Irokin, our freedoms are being eradicated so fast I'll fill this topic up by the end of the year! )

No you don't! You need to mortgage your sister's body and get that KE70 !!! The Exa can wait...

Are you going to get it made for 3K or 4K?? What else do you expect to need to make it run? You could sell a complete kit ready to install for a few thousand bucks I suppose... easiest to use 4AGE valves/guides/seats/seals/cams, everything in fact! Assuming its a 3cam motor to keep the original cam for dizzy/oil pump, will you use one timing chain on all 3 or a separate setup for the head??

Get a multimeter, $10 from Jaycar... Check that the bulbs can earth out at less than 10ohms. If they can't, the earth wires need sorting. usually the connections get dirty & rusty. Check that 12v is actually going to the right bulb when you put the brakes on. Check that the wires for the reverse light on the gearbox don't earth out, and one of them does carry 12V when the ignition is on. They don't sound difficult problems, but they can be time-consuming to check everything.

It really depends on how hard a time you intend to give it. I've collected a few stories of guys who have had success in boring their 4K block out to take 5K pistons, but obviously the walls are thinner and if you turbo it or go crazy with compression it will flex. Then again, i think the guy with the 4AGE head on the 4K that hauls 9000rpm used 4AGE pistons in the stock block... They must be tougher than we think! I haven't come across any stories of guys who have bored it to 80mm & had it blow up or anything. The answer seems to be to have the block sonically tested to check wall thickness & position the rebore to get even thickness walls. You get an instant 1500cc instead of 1300, and all the other gear stays the same. if you want something that will go hard like this, get a forged set. I didn't realise so many were available. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vu8ahJEsnpw