altezzaclub

I used the holes in the tappet cover to mount a bracket. I already had a little alloy bracket holding the heater pipe off the dizzy, so I just added a right-angled bracket. You might have to have the cable in a different place with the Weber, but those are the holes to use.

This sort of thing- soft to start with then stiffens up. http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/FCMstops_comp.htm

Softer bumps stops are probably the best bet. You can't rely on the shocks to limit bump as you will bend the shaft or smash the piston. Cutting the bump stop shorter makes them really hard when you finally hit them, but the new-style plastic bump stops are designed to give more so they're not so harsh at first. If you it a bump stop halfway through a corner the tail snaps out instantly, as you've probably found out...

I run the Altezza at that. Plenty of young guys are hanging their wheels out at -2.5deg, but plenty of young guys are also suddenly finding the inner treads are through to the canvas and the tyres are only three months old!! I think the IS200 chassis is prone to inner tread wear if the wheel alignment guy uses the toe-out side of the specs. The KE70 seems really light on tyres, the Corona LCAs give it basically zero camber on slightly lowered springs. -13minutes and -18minutes, with 1.2mm toein. I am forever amazed at how little a lot of techs know about cars at all, yet here they are doing wheel alignments that affect tyre wear and handling every day... "if its got a green tick that will do- get me the next car.." I always find a guy who does racing cars.

Running OK when cold then not running when warmed up suggests its too rich at idle. Re-setting the idle mixture screw might fix it straight away. That's just screwing the mixture screw in and out again to get the highest, smoothest idle and then re-setting the idle speed screw to the idle speed you want. Must be done warm. Another one would be float height too high, but that is less likely. Have you measured how much fuel it uses? It should use less than 8L/100km around town. Go over it as KE70dave said, a general tune that you can do at home yourself. These are dead simple cars.

It amazes me how bad other forums can get. If you read the posting rules on Toymods it seems like a legal dictionary!

LOL! Done that! Has anyone looked into tyre wear and camber ratios?? You will need to run more toe-in to stop the inside edges blowing away, so although that helps to equalise the tyre wear across the tread they still wear faster for every degree of camber added. ...and if you're looking for front grip you will be running very expensive tyres...

Ah- get a Celica rear sway bar in there, and Corona front LCAs. Cheap to buy and quick to fit. They take out a lot of the understeer and make wet drifting quite easy.

...and these are 'yous'

Well, true its about twice what a 4K puts out, but that jump from 70KW to 90 is still a lot. I suppose being stuck with 2valves per cylinder is most of that, you don't get screaming power without twincams it seems. I think if I fitted a 3T I'd want a cam in it and then twin sidies and an exhaust and a head job and damm I've spent all my money...

Well done! Its nice to solve a problem and let us all find out what the symptoms mean.

lol! Ive done it plenty of times back when I was collecting Datsuns. I own an absolutely overrated Datsun 1600 at the moment that I chased a guy down for, took him a year before he phoned me up and sold it to me. No-one had mobile phones then and texting didn't exist so it wasn't a problem. I like this idea... You might get an offer you can't refuse!

Windscreen washers squirting detergent onto the rear wheels! :laff: Forget the 4K! They didn't do drifting in 1960 when they designed it. Side cam with pushrods, non-crossflow, two valves per cylinder, pathetic 40odd BHP... everything is against it. You can get it up to 50something bhp, maybe 60-odd, and its fun to drive, especially in the wet, but there's no way in hell you will go drifting on dry tarmac without everyone laughing at you. Look up the Tasmanian drift KE70, an excellent job with a 1UZ v8 in it. The 4AGs will do OK, look at this- That's a bigger motor, twin overhead cam, 4valves/cyl, crossflow head... you get the drift... If you're really keen, put up $4000 minimum but really $6k, and go for it.. 40DCOE Webers, forged bottom end, massive head job, exhaust, fancy oil pump & ignition and you'll get at least a blown gearbox, maybe diff as well... :laff:

Is anyone running more max advance than stock??

Jono do they feed more voltage into the coil for a bigger spark? or do they just replace the points as a timing device and leave the coil to run on the same voltage??

I'm looking at CDi ignition vaguely, the Jaycar website is down today so I'm surfing all sorts... I came across a well-written piece here and wondered if anyone has modified the advance curve inside their dizzy. As the author notes, the stock curve is for reliability and lack of warranty claims rather than performance, so there might be some gains to be made. http://www.jcna.com/library/tech/tech0015.html

Bubble test works best with a thermostat in and cold from overnight. Start it in the morning with the rad cap off and the throat filled to overflowing, and just let it idle while you watch. If its bad, bubbles push the water over the rad throat then suddenly go 'bloop' and air comes out. If it not so bad a stream of tiny bubbles comes out all the time after a few minutes. Once warm water comes through the test has ended.

Ah- things must have come ahead. You wouldn't get much extra pressure from the Datsun 1600's inner spring, it did almost no work at all, and valve lift was not a big deal in the 1970s.

Theory is that they want more water flow at the back of the motor so they don't use the holes nearer the front. If you drill them out you might get lots of flow around the front and not enough at the back. The blue streak started getting hot on a long hot trip inland NSW one time, and when I had the motor stripped some time afterwards I was amazed at the amount of rust blocking up the block. Seeing I never sent the block away as I was leaving the pistons in I cleaned it all out with wire/screwdrivers. I ran it with a stocking over the top rad hose for a few weeks after assembly, and its been fine ever since. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727 Twinky, I go back over the head after a week, loosening off the bolts 1/4 to 1/2 a turn and doing them up to max torque. You loosen them first to get a good smooth turn started as they have a lot of static friction after sitting there. Naturally, when the head is off I clean the boltholes out and make sure the bolts screw all the way in easily. Shit builds up at the end of the block thread and stops it turning down the last bit after you have skimmed the head thinner. Any oil/water in there will hydraulic lock the bolt and give the wrong torque.

The inners are there to upset the natural harmonics inherent in the outers and so move the valve bounce rpm area to somewhere it doesn't matter. So if you just run outers it should be fine until you hit valve bounce, which with TRD is probably up around 8000rpm anyway!! TRD did the whole package very carefully- I don't know how long they intended it to go for as a road machine, but it all works nicely as a racing setup.

Actually Evan, stick it back to stock Fiat jets and set the idle according to page 42-43 in the pdf document. Keep the vac advance on, (does nothing at idle) throttles closed off completely and 400rpm on the idle screw only, then take it up to 2000rpm on the idle screw. That might show up any vacuum leaks, and the number of turns on the idle screw to get the smoothest idle shows the suitability of the idle jet size.

So.. idle jets do the low work, up to 3000rpm, so bigger idles will cover the low leaness. Mind you, it could be an air leak doing that! ..or even the float level too low... Its looks like the carb had stock Fiat 124 jets in it when you started. 125/195/50 & 155/150/70. I think that's all for economy on the primary and power on the secondary. They were probably pretty dead until the scondary opened. When you swapped them over you had 155/150/50 and 125/195/70, which gave you rich low down and lean up top. Then what happened on GOR? Did you swap the air jets back, to get 130/195/50 & 155/150/70?? or were you cruising on 130/150/50 & 155/195/70 when you booted it?? That would be worth 16L/100! ..and now are you on 120/195/50 & 140/150/70?? Lean, then rich in the middle, then rich at top? The 120/195 combination looks very lean. What jets do you have to play with?? Can you go back to stock and get some solid readings? I know with the SUs there is a couple of seconds delay in the gauge reading, and they are always changing up and down as the car responds to the road loading, not the accelerator position. So its hard to get definate data, but basically the differences are in a slight throttle push at 2000rpm can give either stoich or lean, depending on the needle, and top end 100kph plus can vary on the needle. Cruise can vary by needle and setting. So idle is always easy to set, off-idle acceleration is always richer when you boot it, and over-run/cuise is lean. It varies a lot with how much accelerator input you give it, just a very slight push usually goes lean, but a bit more richens it, so it takes a lot of driving to really get a pattern.

I always write the Km down on the gas receipt and work it out later. Largely to check the playing around with different needles in the SUs. Today was 8.6L/100, all around town with rich needles. The other needles usually do better, and down to 7L/100km on a trip. Throw the auto box away and fit a 5speed manual. Better fuel economy, more power to the ground and a lot more fun to drive. The auto box weighs at least twice what a manual does too.

Ah, now THEY were basic! The oil ran down the valve stem, onto the o-ring and was meant to flow off onto the outside of the valve guide in the milliseconds that the valve was at full open & the o-ring touched the top of the guide. Any oil-proof (Viton/nitrile) o-ring will do I'm sure.

Are you using the steel seals or the rubber seals. The steel ones tend to be smaller in diameter. 4 Steel one and one rubber one below-