altezzaclub

Some reading on mufflers.. http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0383&P=1

Here's as far as I've got- These are the milder cams that everyone offers. I'm going for the Waggott 233, but this is a runaround for my daughter so you could easily go 275 to 280 duration. They all quoted about $180 including facing the lifters and mailing back to you.

Thanks Jason, I'll chase up the 202 blue springs- Has anyone painted the window frames black? Some cars come out stock with them in black, and my ones are looking faded since I painted the main part of the doors only.

Well, I reckon nothing calls to a Cop faster than any car lowered too far, painted black, noisy exhaust and P plates.... I never see them stopping nicely-presented cars even if they're modded so long as their not extreme. They grab the guys in Altezzaclub that are too low or too noisy in Lexus IS200s, but don't hassle the couple of guys who have put V8s/Supra 2Js into smart-looking cars.... However keeping your licence with 300RWKW is still difficult! :lol: I'm half-way through doing the same as you with my KE70, except I found a pair of SUs. Latest problem is to move the brake booster inlet that someone drilled into the Lynx manifold is such a place that you can't undo a manifold bolt! But of course its a fine thread (probably some ancient British plumber's pitch) that I don't have a tap for. Then I'll clean up the extractors and wrap them with fibreglass heat tape. See if you can find out the Holden valve springs we will both need for a cut cam. The guy at Waggott couldn't remember exactly which Holden motor they came off, but the moment you have cam lift over 0.4" the stock springs coilbind.

Ah.. I'd like to know opinions on exhaust size too. I'm going to plumb the extractors into the stock system until I can find a pipe bender to borrow and make something up- this is a real budget build! Dan you'll need a cam cut to make the most of the carb change and extractors, can be either mild (2000rpm to 5000) or anything up to wild if you're building a race car. I wouldn't worry about a filter until I had the carb on if I were you, there may be better ideas come along as you organise it all. Are you going to do anything about a cold air intake or work the stock one into it?

We lowered Kylie's weekend warrior (and stopped the axle-tramp) by cutting a spare leaf in half and fitting it upside down to the front of the pack in her car. We tossed out the bottom leaf to make the room needed, and it worked a beaut. I think we took the number two leaf to cut, whichever one fitted the best, and hit it with a grinder just behind the diff clamp. Rob put a couple of photos up on here somewhere in a post about axle-tramp.

Meh... Hate music backgrounds!!! Give me raw un-edited sounds any day! I remember wandering up the start queue a few spots in the Datsun International Rally in South Africa and finding Michele Mouton sitting in her one a few cars ahead! It was not a good rally for her to be stuck back with the locals...

Instant cop magnet- I'll bet it'll be siezed before next Christmas! There are a dozen different cam grinds you can get done, depending on what compression ratio/porting and carbs you are going to use. About $200 for a grind and followers surfaced. So decide what you're going to do with the car, (race/rally/drags/drift/street wanking) then where you want the power, & then what carbs will do that for you. With that in your pocket you can chat to Crow or Waggott or Tighe or Wade or....

If there are none in the For Sale section,then hit the wreckers yards. I assume its pretty much a take-out/put-in case without big mods needed to do it....

Port size I don't know, but you can be sure the 5K has a bigger combustion chamber. So a 4k onto a 5K block should raise the compression and a 5k onto a 4K block will lower it...

Just trim a little off the stock spring if you want to lose an inch or so. Don't go crazy and take 50mm off like a lot of guys do... ruins the ride! Twin SU carbs or twin Webers or a nice quad setup off a motorbike! You'll find post about all of them in here. It depends on what you want the car to do... trackwork/hillclimbs, traffic light drags, drifting or just try to keep up with the traffic on the M5... Its no good doing carbs without the exhaust, and its not much use doing those without a cam as well... Check the cable has enough slack at idle and the horrible slow-deceleration diaphram is working OK.

Sounds like a general tuneup and service needed before you hunt any further. Check points, good spark, timing, timing advance on throttle.. get that side sorted. Where is the exhaust leak? At the manifold or down the pipe? Could it be an inlet leak as well that is leaning it out? Let us know how you go...

Haha! As one aged unappreciated dad to another.. GO DADs !!!

How did it run before it blew this headgasket?? Did you get to drive it down the road??

Sorry Rob, I didn't see this earlier.. I bought one for Ryan a few years back, and he sold it eventually when he bought his Levin BZG. Great little car for a single guy and cheap as dirt to run. Was obviously a Jap import in NZ, 5EFE I think it was. Ask him about it when you're around next. I was thinking of one for Ashara if I hadn't gone RWD. I suppose the Aussies tried hard and fked it up as usual... They seem to ruin any Japanese car! http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/cynos/

hmm.. I took those off mine and put blank ones on. So- Have they run fine in the past, or has this been a problem since you fitted them? If it has always been a problem I suggest you take them off and loosen the screws in each throttle plate to allow the plate to reposition itself at "closed". They may slightly crooked and not closing completely. If the problem has arisen without touching anything, do the idle screws still allow the throttle flaps to close completely? Any of the joints may be working under stress and holding the throttle open a whicker, something you can usually check by pushing each idle screw down by hand. Is the mixture set well when you lift the slide pin? and of course, is there oil in the dashpot?

Fins! Fins!!!! Put lots of fins on it to act as an oil cooler!

They should give you more power right through the rev range, as a big single carb is just a compromise everywhere. Its just like fitting twin Weber side draughts, but more trouble! It crossed my mind for the KE70, but I haven't got the gear to weld my own manifold up out of steel pipe anymore. SUs will have to do for me. If you're keen you can airbox them with a cold air intake and run a recent-model Corolla filter.

4AGE.. conversion bits are around.. 3SGE & 6spd.. Altezzas drop straight in... any 4cyl RWD motor and gearbox combo, like a Mazda MX5 1800 & 6speed, Honda S2000... I'd say keep it light and revvy!

haha.. they're talking 4K dyno sheets remember! What's that from? 4AGE??

General tuneup needed I'd say- Plugs, points, condensor, air filter & check the timing, the mixture and idle screw....

Solved! Test head doesn't, but hopefully the head on the car does! This is the Xmas holidays job! Thanks guys....

Couldn't agree more! Just nailed some kid on Altezzaclub for exactly the same thing-

I'll be fitting the SUs to the 4K over Xmas and on the test head I can see the alignment of the Lynx manifold with the ports is terrible. The correct way to sort this is to put just the manifold on in the best position, then drill through the manifold into the head with a 3 or 4mm drill and insert expanding roll pins. They stay in the head each time you take the manifold off (in theory) and it means the manifold is located to within a mm or so. Has anyone done this on a K head, and where did you drill?

Wrong way round Lexuskid- Get a big pipe and a small muffler. You can always change mufflers easily, but with a stock exhaust size you won't get flow gains. Go get extractors & a larger pipe, then use a clamped joint to fit the muffler. Then just keep changing mufflers until the cops stop harassing you!