love ke70

get some good tyres on the front. i loved it when i was running 205/50R15 toyo T1R on the front with a 13" steelie on the back. best fun ever and the grip was sensational from those tyres. absolutely loved them

so f@$k off and stop wasting time! but anyway, the whole engine swap is easier than a head swap and why do you think the current motor is getting tired? a whole engine swap without shaving the head would give better results than a half arsed piss poor attempt at decking a head and putting onto a tired motor.

i would drop the oil out of it. replace the rear main seal as once the gearbox goes on, you will regret not doing it if it leaks, replace maybe the front main and anything else thats showing signs of leaking, or you think might be a prick to get to once the motor goes in. also replace the spigot bearing, in the end of the crank before the gearbox goes on, theyre usually pretty well f@$ked. other than a few minor things like that you should pretty well be right to just hook the box up and give it a whirl :y:

while it doesnt have the obligatory chromies or fully sick lowering usually associated with forester GT I'm still hoping it is infact a forester GT, as it would be one less cock on the road :y:

165

but you can't get the quaiffe in a power steering variety.

i was driving a 1ggte powered ke70 when i was 17, i never saw an issue with being in-experienced in an over powered car. you just learn very fast :y: on the note of P platers however, yes they drive like cocks, but so does every f@$ker in a subaru forester GT. biggest cocks on the road! but you only remember its the P platers acting dumb, coz they have something for you to remember them by

how big is the tray going onto it? is the 2 litre enough power for it up hills etc with a load on it?

how much can you get the new bumpers and end caps for? and did you get that twin headlight setup new? and how much? cheers, andrew

*puts hand up*

if your really concerned, wack a cheap oil pressure gauge on it, but I'm guessing its just a crap filter. if its not a ryco, pull it off, put a ryco filter on and see what changes

what brand filter? probably doesnt have an anti drainback valve which the old filter probably did

what tyres is it on at the moment? i think with some good tyres it might help... what issues are you having with the limo anyway matt? skipping around corners its so tight? or just sliding when your not expecting it too/

she lies she lies!!! :)

just allude to the mob, or a misplaced google link to point us in the right direction :dance:

i meant building company. i love the just do it, not our problem attitude. its what houses are built on :dance:

keep the limo, you will learn to love it. theres a company that refurbishes seat belts if you want i can try dig up there details. you send them belts, the replace the belt part with new material in an array of colours you can choose from, and they service the retractors and everything so theyre good as new when you get them back.

and thats why units suck cock. real homes for real builders for the win. all of that should have been picked up on by the supervisor before you came in to sheet the house. for what its worth, i work for metricon, building high average to upper market homes. we do a frame and truss, get it all ready for inspection. go away and do another one, frame gets inspected, plumbing and power goes in, aircon goes in, whatever the f@$k else goes in, then we come back and do a frame straighten (plane and pack bowed studs and check all levels and nogs and doors and bulkheads). then we go away again, and there is a guy employed by the company who then goes through and checks our shit, check the plumbing work off hte plan, check the electrical off the plan, etc etc, then we come back fix the issues, then it gets sheeted. did you sheet off the bullshit jon or did it get left and you have to come back? alot of gyprockers don't give a f@$k and just smash the sheets on the wall no matter what, which makes it an expensive difficult process to fix the problems. id be upping the supervisor and the trades, obviously no one is taking pride in the work they are doing. must be on shit rates? whos the builder?

buy a A to W bellhousing. dellow sell a crap one. can't talk about the spja one niteparts in nz makes a good one apparently heaps of info about it on toymods. you then need to set the clutch up to work, have a search around, heaps of info on it. but to answer your question, no it does not bolt up unless you change the bellhousing

why didnt you atleast set the toe by eye before driving it? or did you trailer it to work? glad your making more progress :wink: keep it up matt, i might still beat you to getting a ke70 on the road at this rate :D

GT radials still make some, very small selection in sizing though, can't remember what the options were, think it may have been a 15 or nothing lol

oh and for the record, best way of splitting a balljoint out its hole, undo the nut just past the top of the thread, put a puller on it, tension it up, then hit it with a hammer. never fails :P

I'm sorry, but how does a puller help undo a threaded object? i think your thinking of the balljoints? and lovely car but was the pic relevant? why not put it in your avatar :P cheers, andrew

nothing like a complete and utter waste of resources and money...

that radiator isnt smaller though, its just shifted left. does it get full airflow or is most of the airflow to it blocked by the panel?