i've always liked the older supras, even back in the days when i thought painted flames made a car go faster :hmm: and more recently i've been doing some surface research into putting a 7mge into my ke70. the thing is i want it running triple side-draught webbers (so it'd be a 7mgc?) and all i can seem to find is this picture:

 

 

will a 7mge even fit in a ke70? and can you convert it to a carbed engine? (without losing too much power)

even a 7mge running QTB's would be a wet dream... so if you have any info / advice, please share it! :yes:

Edited May 14, 201016 yr by lanceishere

I've heard that 7MGE's are pretty big engines! Cannot give you an answer, though. Running on carby will only make it less efficient

and a probably lose only a small amount of power, but if tuned right can be almost as good. ITB's for the win :yes:

M-series engines are _massive_, both loooong and heavy. Whilst the sound of a 7MG on ITBs or triple carbies will induce half the world to orgasm, the car would be a lead-tipped arrow and not actually _that_ powerful. Remember the 7M only put out 140-ish kw standard, and they're not exactly light on fuel.

 

If you do want to go straight-six and Toyota though, then a 1G is probably a better bet. Smaller, lighter, still sound great on open throttles.

anyone else thinking to long, to old, to heavy (200kg's) the M in 7M means reMove the head and fit another gasket, I'm even thinking an ecotec could be better IMO anyway

anyone else thinking to long, to old, to heavy (200kg's) the M in 7M means reMove the head and fit another gasket, I'm even thinking an ecotec could be better IMO anyway

 

 

Pretty pointless if you expect to turn corners. You can get more power from smaller engines with more reliability

7M would require at least 2 cylinders to be pushed through the firewall... they are a massively long engine, and as previously stated, not worth it for time/effort/expense.

 

I say that as for similar time/effort/expense, a 1GGTE can be done with no firewall mods, bolt up ease (almost... 3T bellhousing will provide for a T50 box to fit for cheaper than chasing down a 1G-W5* setup, and then it's custom mounts...) and 210hp out of a stock 3rd Gen is more than you can expect out of a 7MGE.

the rb20 in the front of my 70 is 30kgs heavier than a gen 3 and when i push it hard into a corner well it is like driving a frozen hotdog across a oiled up hot plate. also the price of the carby's over the factory computer you would have to go the computer cheap and easy..

rb20 with 6 x 20V throttles anyone?

Ok, enough messing around... Let's do this properways...

 

E49 265 Hemi... There, i said it...

ba xr6 turbo garrett GT42R 30 psi lets keep going..in zoom mag they had a rb20 with an rb26 throttle body set up and it lost a heap of torque..

Edited May 10, 201016 yr by rb20 rolla

The 7MGE is a piece of shit motor.

My ol'man has a cressida with a 7m-ge.

He drives it hard and is consequently has become a master at replacing head gaskets as it blows through the cylinder walls quite regularly.

 

Still does good skids... for a granny's car

The 7MGE is a piece of shit motor.

 

 

ahh mr adash i admire your honesty.

 

i like the idea of a straight 6 running on carbys, but not a 7mge and not ke70.

 

i always wanted to get an old 260z/240z and put a modern straight 6 in it.

 

i remember seeing a N/A rb20 in one once, pretty neat looking thing.

 

old school car, with old school fuel delivery technology:P

 

to the OP, why not start with something more suited to a 6cl engine? old celica perhaps? one of those celica/supra things would be awesome with a hot N/A 6clr.

if your going to go through the effort of putting a heavy straight 6 into it, atleast go rb30/26 head + TO4E turbo =

 

17 Psi boost

467 Hp (348Kw) @ 6000 rpm

456 ft/lb (618Nm) @ 4500 rpm :yes:

My ol'man has a cressida with a 7m-ge.

He drives it hard and is consequently has become a master at replacing head gaskets as it blows through the cylinder walls quite regularly.

 

Still does good skids... for a granny's car

 

The head-gasket problem should only be a problem up until the first change, it was a production defect that can be fixed once and for all by the correct gasket and torquing procedure.

 

Sounds like your old man has warped the head.