philbey

you going to DIY build it Dave?

very nice work. I'm doing my second 'learn to solder' project and the next one I buy will be a megasquirt I reckon.... What options have you looked at for crank triggers?

I saw the same thing and laughed..... I reckon the market will stall soon enough. The vogue car will move elsewhere, the next 10 years will see the Hyundai excel or the mazda 3s become popular. Or something like that. Prices and stupid expectations will dwindle, the time value of money will make them more affordable. Funnily enough after a fairly long hiatus, I'm starting to kick the tyres back here again.... 2 kids, a shitload of renovations and quick refurbish on my new hobby, DRZ400's took me out of the loop., so I'm now looking at the warmer months and planning some work on the wagon... finally. But it's scary that I don't have a CLUE where to buy parts anymore. I didn't even know there was an RC spacebook page! Ebay has gone to the dogs and gumtree does provide me with some gold but it's mainly for DRZ parts!

Cheers. Looks the goods.

What's wrong with factory? I put a new set into my motor and never had a problem.

Gday mate, just wondering who you got to do your head work, given you're in Adelaide?

I actually think the weld on is probably the best option for the front. Perhaps you can't weld, but it would be a straightforward job for a competent welder/fabricator. I suspect you can get it done for a hundred bucks without much trouble and a bit of time spent on the phone. The KE20 option doesn't make a huge difference anyway, I think about 40mm? (I wrote the faq haha I forget now) and it's fixed at that. As for any other bolt in option - its' just not out there.

I'm pretty sure you'll have trouble with 8s, depending on height of the care. You'll likely rub the inside of the guard. Offset might save you, but I still think you'll have grief. Guard roll will be a must.

I think some of the starlet centres will fit, I started researching a while back; there are some very rare LSD's that will fit in. Camerondownunder will know more.

I'm running a match pair of G's, I think you'll find the non-pollution ones are hard to find. I got mine running ok at home, but there is very little adjustment (balancing etc) on them. In the end I lucked out, the Dyno tuner in the next suburb has an alfa nut and dellorto guru there. I daily drove the car for 3 years with no issue with the tune. Started first kick and ran like a dream. 68rwkw with a big cam and lots of comp.

probably 10mm plate I just filed mine off like Feral4K although mine looked a whole lot neater that that haha. It took all of about 30 miutes, no leaks. That was all I needed to file.

I"m running big comp on my 5k and I've never had any issues with the bp5ey. I did go with some BP6eys for a while but not really any difference. It's tuned well as well.

there are 3 different spline sets, my toyoglide was different from the KE55 5 speed and the Ke70 5 speed splines. Length is the same, just get your hands on a matching yoke and get a gearbox joint to swap them and rebuild at the same time.

why? Why would you spend a bunch of money to make a 4k block take 5k pistons that wont work with the head that comes with the 4k anyway, and you've spent 3 times more than a 5k anyway...... Plus sacrificing block integrity by machining the shit out of it.... In an effort to actually answer this gentleman's question: Timing chains and gear - Yes it will fit. 4k ones are better than 5k Oil return - Think i can use 4k - Yes you can Sump - think i can use 4k? - Yes. 3K ones wont fit. Gasket kit - $60 ebay - Head gasket might not work with the bore diameter. Buy a 5K one. Valves / Springs / Rockers - Have complete 4k head and 3k head only - Nine times out of ten your 5k is a dished piston. Which means you need the correct head and valves and springs. Best valve springs for a 5K performance setup are probably crow cams 4220s. Forget the bullshit about kingswood springs and glockenspiel retainers etc. Push rods - use 4k? You should get a 5k head with 5k rods.. Timing cover - use 4k? Common to all Rocker cover - i can use 4k - Common to all. Early k/2k/3k ones are the nicest looking with less mounts on the top. Pulleys - Depends on your water pump. There are 3, possibly 4 different water pump pulleys, so you need to make sure everything matches. This is the last thing you should worry about. Thermo and thermo housing - Interchangeable. Depends what inlets/outlets you need for the car, swap your 4k one over for EASY oil filter mount (not sure correct name of this) - use 4k? - Same Engine mounts - have new 4k - Same Intake - lynx manifold and twin su's already have - Same Cam - regrind a 4k one or are they different? - Depends on whether you are running hydraulic lifters, they have different grinds. Dumbasses will tell you that you need to go solid, so you will spend your weekends trying to match Mercer Raceabout lifters to Studebacker rocket covers. Don't. Alternator- Interchangeable, but depending on the belts and pulleys (see water pump comment) you need to make sure your alternator bracket (top one) and the belt length is correct. Not hard though. Distributor - Interchangeable. Starter motor - Interchangeable, biggest issue is the headers. Flywheel - 5K ones are different. I can't remember why. Water pump - See above comments. All are interchangeable, best to just swap pump/pulley/crank pulley/alternator/alternator brackets off your 4K for EASYFUNS in summary, most stuff will swap over but the head and valvetrain will cause you more grief than is necessary. 5k's are not rare. Both of mine cost me 100 each. full motors in pieces. hold out for a complete one and swap the fruit, or chase down a head to suit your short block

Bushpig have you actually spoken to an engineer. It's likely that your car only needs to comply to the ADR's current for the year of manufacture. Pre 87 ADR's are typically much less of an issue. Trumpets inside a plenum shouldn't be an issue. Trumpets with socks also shouldn't be an issue with EFI for a car of that age. The problem will be that your intake noise is too loud for required noise limits