madrolla68

Cam, all correct. If you use the holden/chev solid lifters you will have no problems as they are basically exactly the same as the toyota hydraulics but solid, no need to block oil galleries etc etc. Also whats wiht the STAINLESS STEEL lifters man, the bottom of them is missing????????

Hey that fine as i said I'm not crackin off ,but i just have issues with the how it portrayed that power loss is a fixed percentage.

Total rpm is not the issue here i don't think it is the ramp can be a lot more agrressive on a solid tha a hydraulic. FAst opening valve train.

Bout time someone listened to me,ive been running these lifters for 15 years without issue. Si yes they are lighter but if 3grams is all that is in it then does it really slow the valve train down. YES all holden/chev lifters are the same size red/ blue /black. Good buy for $75 for 16 by the way.

Something you need to take into consideration also is tyres.

Have a good read of what i posted and then tell me where your 30 & 20 % fits. Cause you are saying that if you upgrade your power level you will lose 30% or 20% of your upgrade.

Cam how come you don't just go and buy some holden solid lifters mate, they are only about $10 each.

Yes that is completely wrong, it is not proportional to how much power you make at the engine. For instance tell me how you have more drivetrain (not engine) losses when you go from say 100 HP at the engine to making 160 Hp at the engine. The drivetrain losses are still EXACTLY the same whether you make 100 Hp or 160 HP right!!!! So it CANNOT be a direct % to engine HP can it. I run a dyno EVERY day upgrading diesels from n/a to turbo or turbo /gas now our dyno gives drivetrain losses and from before and after mods the drivetrain losses do not change because there is NO reason for them to change as nothing in the driveline has changed has it. Oh by the way I'm not having a crack at you or anybody just spellin out the truth of the matter

100 HP loss through the driveline you reckon. 18 PSI, no worries ,good pistons ,rods, head gasket and studs.

Restrictors on turbo oil feeds, don't go there, just plumb it in after the filter like above inline with the oil pressure switch or some such where, the oil holes in the sleeve bearings determine how much oil it needs not some idea of the internet. BB turbo have a restrictor normally built into the feed line from factory but for a sleeve bearing turbo. don't DO IT>

Just get KE20 hubs and swap them over and use KE55 disks and calipers and backing plates, i used a Galant M/Cyl from and RA model i think.

looks like a hitachi or IHI

This one has been made up cause you can see where the flange has been adapted but the top one is on the money ,just don't try and fit that toa KE10 cause it wont fit.

PM sent

I'm gonna box that stuff up tonight man, sorry been HELL busy.

But not that one , you can see the wastegate sealing area , the wastegate is part of the dump housing i think

Tidy looking car mate well done.

There is only (1) answer to this question. PM Taz_Rx

Ok cheers for that ive been offered a T50 or two,one is from T18 the other is AE71, so not sure which one to get cause my shifter is like a KE55 position i think.

Come on SI thats going a tad too far on the bling don't you reckon. :S

Hey same power almost and exactly the same MPH as me, wish i could 60 in the 1.8's. well done.

Ok i am going to order an extreme button clutch like the one D.McKiggan posted earlier for now until i get the T50 sorted as this one wont even hold 1 bar boost and as you know i like to use a whole heap more than that, BTW Casey i don't think its gonna be much good mate but ill check it out when i pull it mate.

Buy my 7K then man :S

sO IS THER MUCH DIFFERENCE IN POWER HANDLING CAPACITY OF THE BIG BEARING ONES TO THE EARLY ONES. And will a T50 fit into a KE10 tunnel. Hope you don't mind Si just trying to get some info for us both

Thats a hydraulic one ey!!!!!!!!!!