Super Jamie

4ks have their own stem seals, xany is just using 3k valves with no stem seals. when i got my bigport done up, i had it all changed to 4k valves, guides, retainers, seals, etc.

hooray ;) i was thinking, it might be a good idea to put a bottle of "fuel system cleaner" or whatever thru your tank, you've probably got a bit of excess oil crud buildup on the back side of the valves, and perhaps a coked up combustion chamber

i agree with ben, i like to see car photos with numberplates. and you pretty much need it on places like qldstreetcar forums where most of the cars have novelty plates, names or themes or car related. i guess i fall into this category too, my number plate is one of the things about my car that i'm most proud of ;) lets all look at it now

i believe 3a would have weaker 4ac rods, weaker pistons, and less bearing area to distribute the force of combusion over. i may be wrong and they're "the shit" but it makes sense to me. it would be like comparing an old ae71 4ac and a good-block ceramic-piston 4agze, they are very very different motors

3a? why? they're old and weaker than modern 4age/gze bottom ends, not to mention smaller

haha noise. i used to rent a shed that was zoned industrial, so noise limit was 11pm. the uni was stupid enough to build student accomodation next door. when i was sanding my ke35 and lucky was spraying his, using the orbital sander and air compressor until 11pm for about three weeks in a row, they made a complaint to my landlord about the noise, who promptly told them to go f@$k themselves :)

wtf is a "hacksaw"? :)

man thats good work. wont the pop rivets leave little spots on the panel when its done?

no, they wouldnt be. these are pretty rare cars to find info on, i'd be going to dealer service

that would be an interesting pulley setup, the engine would be spinning so fast at max power you wouldnt want to get the blower out of its efficiency range or strip the screws or anything i think a supercharged rotary would be the shit. a 13b has more torque than a 2.6 astron motor and even they're pretty f@$king gutsy. a supercharger would make it climb a vertical wall! you can get blower kits for series 4/5 motors for about $2700. no jamie, loan applications are bad. BAD I SAY!!! jamie wants a rotor

what ben said. basically i mean a sprung driven plate with a full friction area and softer compound than a button clutch

36psi all round rocks! maybe it's my rear tyres balding down, maybe it's me learning greater car control, maybe it's the tyre pressure cos that's the only thing i've changed, but if i try to slip the back out around a corner, it will more often kick two wheels and drift around, gettting traction with a good driving line depending on where i'm pointing the steering wheel. i like this :)

not if you are made of steel and have 3mm apex seals :)

get a corolla :)

unless you're shaped like a funny triangle and move in an elliptical pattern at over 8000 times per second, sorry toots, you lose

hmm, very educational, thanks fookie :) and yes you do have my book. ironically, since you got it back for me i've seen ken more than i've seen you! i really really like the steering with the fronts at 36psi, it is a shitheap more stable at 150km/h, and it just turns in SO well it's beautiful, it also seems to jolt less in the back too. i might try pumping the fronts up a bit more. i had an idea that you'd want to run "perfect" pressure, which would be a sweet spot where you get what you want best out of the tyres depending on what i find, i'll probably run slightly higher rears, ~40psi, on the hillclimb track just to be safe (though i don't think i'm going to roll a 185/70/13 off a 6" rim) but i find it amazing the difference a few pounds in the treads has made to the road feeling of my car. free comfort and handling, this rocks!

BECAUSE I WANT A ROTOR f@$kYA :) my car is actually registered as a "ke20 variant" and the body type is "sedan". i'll send the rta an email and ask if there's a real "ke25" and "coupe" category and what the tare weight is, maybe i can do a change of details to the right thing and my car can gain 5kg and a 12A. dream dream dream

i've always found it's pretty easy over here too :) bands say aussie chicks are the best. i'm staying put! (cancer likes home)

can you put them in a street car? how much are they? haha your "extractor" would be one single pipe all the way to the back. and f@$k it would have a funny idle

10As are difficult to get, and you pretty much need a spare 12A/13B to transfer all the good shit across from anyway. if i could find one cheap, then yeah, but i can't so :) 12A in ke25 is illegal. by 4kg original tare weight! bastards

good deal, make sure the extractors fit in your car, and ditch the button clutch for an organic driven plate

probably another ~$1500

i used to have to run 42psi because i had 185 tyres on 4.5" rims. silly me. now i have some nice wide 6s, i have done a little experimenting with 42psi in the back, the car just bounces around alot. with 38psi it will spin the wheels at first but seems to get more grip and arc up once traction is gained. today i lowered them to 36psi, not a huge difference but i didn't get up it much i raised the fronts from 28psi to 36psi, steering response was noticably improved, the car noses down less, i guess from less sidewall flex? i think less bump steer as i drive around on our shitty nsw roads too so what are some general rules and theories for tyre pressures? what set of conditions are you trying to attain and what are you trying to avoid?

the mazda rotary engine is still really in its early days. but development is moving fast because of modern technology and past experience with different motor designs the piston combustion engine has easily had another 100+ years to develop. back in the 40s they had massive V8s running 5:1 compression and "big power" on the street was about what my 4k makes now - that's one shithouse engine. the earliest piston engines ran leather rings in the bores. now THERE is an engine that's going to need rebuilds alot. just because it's primitive doesn't mean it's not going to get better the "rotaries are unreliable" and "rotaries need rebuilds all the time" myths are pretty much gone these days. you build a stock rotary "block" up with modern components (ignition, seals, induction, etc) and it will last just as long as a stock piston motor from the same time. i'll bet you see renesis engines easily making quarter of a million km most rotaries you see are worked anyway, and all worked motors need rebuilds more often, no matter what they are, because they are under more stress as they run, and usually get driven harder anyway. i know i certainly don't expect my 4k to last any more than 100,000km at most. i'll probably have moved onto something else by then anyway (mmm rwd 4g63) i would like to see where rotaries are, given the same amount of time to develop as piston engines have been. now THAT would be one tight little motor. i just wish they'd make them small enough that i can put one in my car :)

that's the spirit :D even 650 is pretty steep. that's more than what i got quoted to do a tosco port on a 3k head, and they jacked up the price because they didn't like my setup! then again this is from the guys who think a 4k-e has bigger valves, which it doesn't, so i figured i'd just pick up the bloody die grinder myself :)