Taz_Rx

Hey buddy, just been having a read of your SAU thread and thought I might make a few points for you. 1, I saw your "want to swap" in the first post here and was keen to swap your T28 for my T25G, but after seeing that its one of those chinese T25/28 hybrids I'm not really keen now. Haven't had any personal experience with them, but they deffinately don't have the best reputation! :y: On the same topic this statement concerns me.... With the turbo plumbed up you shouldn't be getting any resistance like that! I hate to say it but the problem may be an already un-healthy turbo! :hmm: Plug gap and timing won't really make much difference to how it runs at idle plumbed up or not!! 2, have you actually locked the dizzy? 3, You sure you've got the fuel system sorted!? :hmm: You said something about needing a pump with 8-10psi. So are you really going to be happy with 6-8psi of BOOST? 4, Your FMIC concern - Ok your carby backfires, it happens. But how in hell is fuel supposed to travel back towards the turbo when the induction pipe is under vacuum!? :hmm: Seriuosly mate, I would not worry about this and fit a FMIC when ever you want. ..... and this leads into my next suggestion..... 5, The guy who wrote this about the above.... ........has probably forgotten more about turbo K motors that what I have ever learn about them!!!!! :) He is the guy who originally helped me out with my backyard setup many years ago and I learnt heaps from him. Can I suggest that if he ever gives you advice again then take it very seriously as he's always right. :) You may have read posts of his here under the username "untubbed_20". ....oh and I nearly forgot, do you still have that T28 in the first pic? this one.... Cause thats a GTR T28 (one of the twins) and would be a much better size match over a S14/15 T28 for a 4k. [/rant] Si.

Hobart :)

What exactly do you mean "sit level"? do you want to drop the shifter end down/or up a bit? Remeber you want to keep your drive shaft as straight as possible, and I doubt the rear main seal would work very well if it was nearly completely submerged in oil. Shades is already onto it though. Rx4 4 speeds and S1 rx7's have more of a "KE55" type shifter position while all other rx7 GB's are more of a back-of-the-extension-housing "KE70" position. My first suggestion would be to try and get your hands on a S1 5 speed and try that. Can also always convert to a hydro handbrake!! :) FYI, if there was ever a bible on mazda's....... then Spac wrote it. :) ....... http://ausrotary.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=2735

balloons

You did use a new gasket? And cleaned the mounting surfaces up before fitting said new gasket?

The search tab in the top right corner is your friend!!!! :) Maybe try using it before starting a new thread next time!!!.... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=28792

Yep.... mine's 5k block, 3k head, chevs and A12 pushies.

Greetings!!! :) .....I say you jump the falcoon!!! :)

Ah yeah, sorry miss-read that.

IDIOT. :) You've obviously never seen just how much damage a tail shaft can do!? Think twice before admitting to stuff like that on a public forum. :)

Absolute blessing in descise for the rest of us!!! :y: and whats another wanker in a commonwhore!!!! :)

hahaha been there done that Mark!!! I tried to use a KM (liteace 200mm) FW and a T18 clutch kit for the T50. Spend $400 (trade price) on a clutch kit and tried to assemble it as it all worked on paper. Shame I did think about the pressure plate as 200mm one fouls on the inside of a K-T bell housing, let alone a K40/50 one. :) 200mm pressure plate will only fit inside a K-W bell. :) Spewn about the oil. Hopefully its just a dodgy rear main seal and they'll fit it for free. Just a bummer you've gotta take the engine out and clutch FW etc off again.

Dude, let your fingers do the walking!!! Ring somebody like Pedders, tell them what you want, and open the cheque book. :)

Go put it in the FAQ/Knowledge base as all it says is "as per manufacturers specs". Maybe put a *note* saying to still check the above anyway.

Good to see you got it sorted, quick too!!! :) They're a little bit different to mine (headrests) did they come from a 180sx or something??? as mine where deffinately from an S13 Silvia.

Here's one on behalf of Hiro to keep the ball rolling....

Say what??? how do get compression with a hole in the chamber!!!!??? :P If you have torn a lobe off your cam this would cause the valve to not open - hence "not run", but because the valve is still sealing won't effect compression.

You want to hunt down a KM36 onwards litace. 5k FTW!! :P

CC the head and work it out mate. :lol: Also depends on how much dish is in the pistons you use.

The front main seal? Just lever it out with a flat screw driver. Don't be afraid to damage it (it'll happen) as you're replacing it. I still don't exactly see how a front main seal can be noisey anyway!!! :lol:

I've got some S13 seats in my fiddyfive. Cheap, readily available and easy to fit...... :lol:

Coln72 swear black and blue by hydro's. And from memory he has a cam and nudges 8000rpm at motorkhana's etc.

Well you've now got a mix match of corolla/liteace parts in your drive drain. The reason it had the 200mm clutch diametre FW is because its as it came from the liteace. FW itself is identicle apart from the bigger contact area. Using a corolla 180mm FW means you could just use any regular corolla clutch kit. Can't use a liteace clutch kit as the input spline is massive compared to a K40/50. Not a huge drama, just something to keep in mind should you want to put a lightened FW or something in later.

Shit thats a bit more than I thought....... obviously, sorry mate. Last set of leaf packs he did for me I wasn't charged. But I have a pretty good 'working relationship' with him. :lol:

You not a rotor fan shades? Personally I think you can't beat the sound of an n/a pp at full song. :lol: My ring tone is the 787b. :hmm: