Taz_Rx

113000K's is f@$k-all for a K. Thou = Thousands of an inch. 8 thou on th inlet valves 12 thou on the exhaust valves.

Every you'd need to know about adjusting valve clearnaces will be in your haynes/gregory's manual. Stock 4k's are 8 (inlet) and 12 thou (ex) HOT. Might also want to invest in a new timing chain. That ones a bit harder than the tappets, but again you'll have instruction on how to do so in your manual. :y:

hehehe

:y: Does he actually have any knees???

Or you can get a degree or two by slotting the holes in your strut towers. :y: The E30 shock probably would fit, I know you can modify older BMW koni's etc to fit old skool mazdas. I'd say why bother though when any AE86 adjustable shock is a straight bolt in, or the sierra shocks for short stroke.

I have a sump at home with a fitting in it for oil return. The return line is on the front passenger side corner of the sump, so would be perfect position for your setup. PM me if your intersted, I can send you a pic of it. Oh and before I forget, it also have a hole in next to the sump plug where I had an oil temp sensor. So that would need to be blocked up.

HOW do you suppose the tank is getting pressure in it? what is making the pressure?

Have a look at my vids dan. ;)

Good to hear it all work well. ;) I should patent it!!! hahaha

Basically, jack it up, put the car in gear and turn the tailshaft with your hand to see if there is much slop in the diff.

For starters you might want to jack up the back end and check the back-lash in the diff.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=23643 ;)

Get yourself a little fitting like this.... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SARD-Fuel-Pressure-...%3A1%7C294%3A50 and just run a hose off it and into the new reg IN. I have one that has a -6 speedflow fitting instead of a barbed end.

Good to hear. Think I might be staying in Launy this weekend (will confirm) to if you're coming into town could check over the timing and points etc?

Byron's putting weight on well now. He's up to 840gm now. Its pretty normal for a premmy baby to loose a bit of weight after birth, so its great he's now up and over his birth weight. I think this pic is a good example of size........

Won't be turbo if he's paying that much for a motor. S4/5 import donks are still fetching around $1500. ;)

For starter...... Is it under PRESSURE or VACUME!? Your probably on the right track with the charcoal canister though.

It's not so much the layshaft bearings, its the fact that the layshaft eats into the shaft that it runs on. YES they do die!!! ;) And beofre you say it I've done this exact thing (worn layshaft shaft) long before the motor was turbo'd. Boost just makes it happen faster. ;)

Ke1X and Ke2X K40's both have smaller input and output splines than there later relatives, as you have discovered. Everything after and including Ke30 have 21 spline outputs. The easiest way to fix your ploblem would be to source a Ke30 or 55 tailshaft and modify it (assuming you need to shorten it) to suit. There is probably such a thing as a XE2X 21 spline tailshaft........ It would be in a TE27.

May also be worth mentioning that a 3k sump is actually different to 4k and 5k (which are interchangable). 3k has 9 bolts per side, 4k and 5k have 11. ;)

I've had no such issues with mine. I have however had an oil leak issue (as brodie already knows) but thats more of a design fault IMHO. I just don't think having alloy running on a seal light a front main is a good idea. Thats why my gilmer crank pulley is now at a machine shop getting buzzed down and having a stainless sleeve slipped over to fit the groves in it. They're only 0.25mm deep but enough to cause an instant leak with a brand new seal. :bash:

Or you could always just remove the inlet manifold to inspect the ports! Looking at the under side of the head wouldn't tell you anything anyway. :bash:

I know you say the turbo is brand new,..... BUT take the dump pipe off and check in the rear housing for signs of oil. My "Never been used since rebuild" T25G smoked its head off the first time I started my car cause its was and still is leaking oil. :bash: Were did you get the turbo? Egay?

They were a pretty average design for the strain they get on them. Don't often even see them on old cars these days aswell as they've broken. All of my rollas just have a small hose clamp holding them in place. $2 fix and its stronger than the original. :bash:

I don't know all of the legalities on it and they would most likely change from state to state........ and then CAMS rules may be different again. But yeah they were probably overlooked because of your fixed backs. Those child restraint point are probably stronger than you give them credit for, however my first choice would be to screw an eyelet inplace of the bolt where the top of the drivers side REAR seatbelt bolt to the parcel sheft. Then the rear seatbelt is still there (just held by the eyelet instead of a normal bolt) and you just unclip them when carrying passenegers. These are the latches I'm talking about...