Taz_Rx

Oh and Shades I seriously reckon any inline 6 would be way too much trouble (anythings doable...but) to consider for the small engine bay. V6 wouldn't be too bad though. After doing some researching into the K powered sierra thing, its not actually as easy as its made out to be. In most cases the transfer case is moved back around 100mm, with shaft lengthening/shortening required. Or you can make a solid spline>flange and have the GB mounted against the TC. In both cases the longer K series will come further forward in the bay and require the radiator to be mounted further forward aswell. Considering the room there is in those little engine bays there really no way you'd get an L6 without some serious firewall mods. This is the main reason my 7k isn't in the sierra yet. Poke around a bit and decided that i'll kick the body off the chassis, fit the 7k, then do the body thing. Then the ke36 engine bay will be alot bigger and easier to work with, and its just a matter of hooking everything up to the motor where it was before. :D

:D Somebody else!!!! Nah all good dude, love seeing weird and wonderful projects being built. I'm actually just about to build a 4x4 corolla also, but I'm using a ke36 wagon (though it was much more practical than a ke55). I have a '94 LWB Murati Sierra which I'll be using. Its about 1 inch longer in the wheel base and chassis rails are pretty close. I'm going to use a Toyota 7k for my power plant for several reasons: 1, I have one in the wagon to be used. 2, I love the reliability and simplicity of K series motors. 3, the 7k is the biggest K you can get ;) Big bore!! hahaha http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=18156 I did have a magazine here somewhere that a mate bought round for me, but I don't know where it is now. Had basically the same project but used a ke30 for the body on a lwb. IIRC the owner works/ed in a 4x4 shop in Qld named "Red bank 4x4" or something like that. Pretty sure it was far north Qld so maybe 7Shades will know where I'm talking about.

Try putting a full tamk of fuel in it.

Why is the dump pipe pointing up? I don't think you have the right one! :D

Cam's '92? That'll beat me!!!! Thing hauls. ;)

The FAQ needs some revision. No offenece to Jamie but it was obviously written by somebody that had never actually turbo'd a K. EG say a t28 is too big....... I just been running one for the last 6 months. Oh and I've put over 20psi into a stock 4k befor. Read...... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=17418

Finally got around to having a look at this for you. Line up a 3k, 4k and 5k dipsticks yesterday, took a pic but you'll have to wait till I get back to my laptop till I upload it. The 4k and 5k dipsticks were the same length - which makes sense as they're the same stroke, just a bigger bore. The 3k dipstick however was a good 40-45mm longer than the other 2x. So much so that the guauges on the end don't even overlap! So if you used say a 4k dipstick in a 3k (cause I doubt a 3k one would fit in a 4k) and filled it up with the correct amount of oil it wouldn't even register on the 4k dipstick. :dance:

You can hire them from Carey hire on the corner next to maccas. Probably $50 for the weekend. Sorry I though you sms'd engine stand, not crane.

All the fuel setup info you need is in the "how to setup your fuel system" how to in Tech articles>General discussion. I wrote it for turbos, but its identicle for a blow-through SC setup. Just in regards to SlO-030's comment.... To alaborate just a little further - Most SC's will be most efficient in low-mid RPM and peter out a bit in the top end...... just like a stock cam. If you put a big cam in it you'll effectively have "cam lag" at low-mid rpm while still having full boost. If you want to try and make more top end power, yeah sure change to a bigger cam but also re-evaluate the drive ratio on the charger to suit. :dance: ....and, you don't now how much you can actually enjoy torque until you loose it!

Horse your horse there for a second mate!!! :dance: You may be about to make the same mistake I did last year. I'm assuming this clutch combo is for the K-T50? On paper you can use a KMxx 200mm flywheel and a T18/AE71 200mm clutch kit (right spline for T50) and it will bolt up to the flywheel.........BUT, the T18/AE71 pressure plate WILL NOT FIT INSIDE A CABLE OPERATED K-T BELLHOUSING!!!! It fouls on the flat spot where the clutch fork come through. This is the clutch kit you need for the K-T..... http://www.exedy.com.au/SpecSheet.aspx?Spr...heetRowId=39494 Mine is the TYK-6280 HDB button clutch.

Yeah you'll be able to get it going well enough to drive it to him for a dyno tune. Will just be a matter of leaning her out a bit and making sure each throat is at least sucking the same amount of air. While I think of it have a search for something along the lines of "home made carby equaliser" on here as somebody put up a how to of making a simple one with some hose and coke bottles. I'm more than happy to come have a tinker with you to get her running. :dance:

May be worth a trip to Mr Sherrif for a dyno tune buddy. He just solders up the existing jets and drills them to suit. When I got the carby turbo kit tuned he charged me about $260 but there were a few other things to do as well as tuning. :dance:

http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b396/taz_rx/torana/ Click on one of the rev limiter videos. Thats one hotdog in the usual muffler spot. Video's don't do the volume justice as it is what I would probably call too loud.

I've probably got a couple laying around if you don't mind a pre-loved one?

You need to check with the RTA in your state, as it is different from state to state. For example (IIRC) a 4 point cage is legal in WA, but a 6 point isn't. And then in Vic both 4 and 6 points are legal for road use!! Another thing to barein mind - You say its a race/road car. Last thing you want to do is plan and build a cage to legal road specs, only to find out its not acceptible by CAMS or ANDRA!!

Yes. You just can't swap between K40's and K50's. When re-fitting the other extension housing you just need to make sure all of the selector forks line up properly, but this isn't hard. :party:

DHLA's Pffft. :dance: IDA FTW!!!! :party:

Long time no see Roger!! :dance: More the merrier as far as I'm concerned. They're all rollas fwd or not. .....they just have to try an keep up with us rwd oldskoolers. :party:

Its already a K50 gearbox...... you're just making it ke30/55 friendly. :party: Bellhousing is intergrated. Tailshaft is same spline and length.

You say that now. :party: I had a look at it on the weekend. Didn't really want to touch it much more after seeing the indicators flash when the you grounded what we thought was the "on" power for the coil!!

You don't need to swap tailshafts for a KE70 K50. Swapping the extension housing gives you a KE55 K50 shifter position. If you don't do that you need to cut a hole further back in the trans tunnel.

We got a KE50 (K engine) which looks like that. Didn't get the T series version here though. Here's a members car..... http://www.rollaclub.com/board/?showtopic=29063

Hey mate, good to see another local rolla. Seen you race the commonwhore at Tarmak before, you might have seen me in my '55 out there as well. Oh, and we have a cruise on in a couple of weeks. Meeting at my house or St Leonards dog park, cruising the sidling to Bridport for a BBQ and then back through Pipers Brook (road that Archerville is on) to Launy home.

Just buy a 5k!! :party: They have more bracing ribs on the block as well as thicker bores.

Fark....I knew there was something else I was supposed to do yesterday. :party: