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Everything posted by towe001
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:( :D Good to see ya getting it back on the road Des
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People that have to drive around with the high beam on during the day - yeah sure, low beam for safety but high beam. Drivers that just have to charge up behind you then at the last possible second of a passable area jump out race past jump back over and then slllllllooooooowwwwww down and then speed up when you go to pass them and then slow back down again Cops that catch a speeder and just have pull a u-turn right in front of ya Question - would it be legal to t-bone the d%ickhe%ds ? Would like to know before i give it go
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Ya i'd be inclined to have the same thing with the clutch by making it the weakest link. You can still drive with a clutch that slips (well, to a point at least) but you can't drive with a busted diff. But other then that damn nice chariot you have there
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Christmas shopping is nothing more then a phuckin joke People think that cause i'm pushing a stroller i'll move out of the road for 'em Sorry numbnuts but i'm not moving off to the side, you side step me Same goes if you walk in front of me - i rather like nipping the back of heels Some people expect i'll let them jump in front of me at the registers cause i'm pushing a stroller Car parks are another fun spot with getting my son in and out of the car. From people wanting to trade door paint cause they just can't wait to get in or out of their car - maybe if ya parked else where you wouldn't be having a problem. The dumb arse women that just had to push me sons door closed onto my girlfriend so that she could walk past - funny that cause she wound having to tangle with me and the stroller. The stupid b*tch that drove on the wrong side of the road and held up traffic cause the stroller some how took up 3/4 of the road. The guy that had to speed up just so that he didn't have to stop at a crossing for us and a few other people - times i wish the stroller was a shopping trolley......
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When it comes to putting forced induction on a N.A. motor most times it works out better to rebuild the motor for forced induction. Unless your just planning on running low boost, like say 5psi or something. A thicker gasket is like a bandaid solution. Do expect it blow after a while. Copper gasket ?? Changing the cam timing is another one for a bandaid solution. Eg - if the exhaust valves open sooner some of the pressure can be released. But it robs power, economy etc. Best thing to do first is research first before spending the money and maybe blowing a hole in not just your pocket but the motor as well.
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Holly crap that those prices i'd be sticking with a stocko hat and spend the money on other things Like a book or two or three on Fabrication and make my own Or some popcorn and a movie
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Ugly... yep But it sure does go hard and they put a hell of a lot of thought into it Such as even before pen touched paper the motor was proposed to put out over 1000hp which led to a motor that was designed to make over 1000hp and handle that much power which led to a gearbox/differential that could handle that much power which led to the wheel and tire combo which led to the suspension which led to the body etc etc etc
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Have a look at that back left door...... its been re-painted.... by the previous owner before the previous owner. The rotors are from the ae93. Their about 2mm smaller in diameter then the ae102 but the center hole is the same size as the '82 The rear springs are Kings
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With or without the thermostat ? I'm betting without
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Just not the '79 model ke55 (square headlights) which mine is and from what i can tell all it is is just a face lift of the early model '55
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From memory the fan does bugger all once the speed gets over 40kph. Depends on the grade of the hill and how hard your willing to push it up the hill. Think of it like walking up a hill and then run up the same hill. If your really worried about the motor running hot, try turning the heater on full - it gives the main radiator a helping hand in the older model cars, where as sweet bugger all in the later ones.
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Your going to find that the bracket thing that the window mounts onto will have rusted out letting the window pop out of the mount. 1 - You can either find a "new" one, if you can. All the ones that i found were either just as bad or worse...... 2 - Live with it (what i did with one - wasn't too worried since people didn't know how to wind windows back up so i took the rear door winders off) 3 - Nick a mount from another car and bodgy it up - silastic works wonders
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Mmmm, makes me hungry for some hungry jacks onion rings :lol:
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:lol: An old mate barrel rolled and slid his mums car about 100m on a roundabout, he tried telling us that he was "only" doing 40 when it happened.... Yeah, more likely he was doing about 40 when the roof hit the road
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Pfft like what was said the standard radiator will be good enough. If your motors overheating its not cause the radiators not up to the task its cause the motor has problems - eg: blockage, timings out, etc Another way to look at it is that the radiator in my dad's old '55 had about a quarter of its fins chewed out and the only times it'd start getting hot (3/4 mark is where it'd sit) is when it was towing a loaded 5x7 box trailer..... Get the coolant system pro flushed first and then see how things go. Which is better spending about 80 - 90 bucks to get it flushed or spend quite possibly way over $200 on a bigger radiator, then find that the coolant system was blocked up in the first place and then have the motor being undercooled, wasting fuel and damaging the motor cause it can't get up to temp....
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The radiator from the ae92 mounts up differently to the ke55. That is the ae92 one sits on a "cradle" and has a bracket like clamp that holds it down on to the cradle. All of this is rubber mounted and the inlet and outlets are off to the sides - inlet to the right, outlet to the left. It will not be a simple job. If your after something that'd be a simple upgrade, start looking at the wreckers for cars that use the same mounting style but with a bigger motor. EG - Corona, Celica, Gemini, etc, etc. But if your looking at the upgrade as to try to stop the motor from overheating go and get it professionally flushed first and if it doesn't really do anything then start looking at the upgrade with a clean coolant system. If you try doing it yourself with a garden hose all you'll be doing is flushing the old coolant out and nothing else. Its an eye opener in seeing the amount of crap that gets blown out with a mix of air and water.... And make sure you use a new thermostat. Using none will only give you a false sense of a win in blowing the gasket around cylinders 3 and 4
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My thoughts on the rust issue is that its as common as what the car is
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Was thinking about trying that :P Sounds just like my ex-girlfriend. That b@#$ch would do something like that...... And i also would have been the sorry sod who'd cop for the rest of the damn week And then 6 months down the track i'd cop it again for no reason
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Nar forget the TRD model the one that you would want to go for would have to be the CS model (Competition Sports) Highly tuned 4k cast crank cast rods cast pistons (REPCO ??) compression of around 9.0:1 single carby intake manifold bolts to extractor (4-2-1) style exhaust manifold 5 speed floor shift super light weight disc brakes on the front and drums on the back All this performance crammed into a 950kg body. Or was that 920kg ? Can never remember that bit.......
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Yeah know that feeling..... Not so much the waterlogged bit. Its just about every bloody fortnight i've got to pull the damn mower out to cut down quarter of the backyard of 3 foot tall lush green grass while the half the lawn is overgrown with crusty looking grass. The weed wacker kinda blow-up :D cause of it. Got fed up with the catcher on the mower getting overloaded so i tied the flap thing up :hmm: And the other quarter of the yard is dead
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WHAT ?!? You want 10 minutes with my wife ?!? Like phuck you do !!!
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Oi, I'd sooner the G13B twincam over the 4age. Much nicer donk Only prob is where the dizzy is located :D
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Nar the ge motors don't have centrifical advance its electronic