ke70dave

s13 front end = fail in ke70. the R31 diff seems to be the pick of the bunch, disc brakes, and aftermarket KAAZ diff available (or the silhouette LSD, but thats some crappy cone type) it wont just bolt in though, need to modify it a bit. someone has recently don't a write up on how to do this, tech articles section i think. spent more money on shocks than springs and you will do alright. you can make crap springs look good with good shocks, you can't make crap shocks look good with good springs.

if your starter motor is actually buggered, just get an auto electrican to rebuild it. where do you live?

I would even go as far as to, wake up morning to a cold engine, remove radiator cap, start car, and observe for ~20mins. a detailed description of what happends to the temp guage, the idle quality, and the water in the radiator cap, will definately help in determining the dramas.

Who's is that light blue ke70? i like it! looks like a fun day.

a litte bit of a serious video for us all, id never even heard anything about this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDOrzF7B2Kg

woooaahh. i want to have a go. that looks fantastic. certainly sits back nice and far. got any details on your setup there? thats going to be a mean machine.

mmm interesting one. thankyou for putting so much detail in your question! makes life much easier for us to attempt to help. edit, i just re read your post...you have tried everything i suggested already...ive got nothing... as for those two coolant sensors, i belive one is the temperature guage in the dash, the other one is the temperature sender for the ECU.

Getting crash repairs is a complete and utter pain in the ass. especially if it wasn't your your fault.

The only way to get a price is to-do up a budget. I've recently done one for a ke70, full brake and suspension up grade including rebuilt engine diff wheels tyres. Not much change from 15k. 5k of that was engine.

yeah spade connectors work good. Or for a little bit of extra confidence a dab of solder on the spade connector once you have connected it.

ermmm 2k wont get you far. realistically for $2k you are talking about a luke warm 5k at best. certainly wont be the fastest ke20 around for $2k engine.

tech questions. a carby kit is only about 40bucks. few hours with the kit, some petrol, and a toothbrush for cleaning and your carby will be looking brand new. all the 4k carbys are almost 30yrs old....best to fix yours 100% than hope another 30yr old one is better. or better yet, pick up a 2nd hand one, rebuild that one, then swap it over with your current one. somthing like this will do ya i reckon. perhaps see if you can get one locally though. dunno about buying stuff like this from tailand. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE70-TE71-TE72-4K-CARBURETOR-REPAIR-KIT-/310384291043?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4844586ce3

I', going to move this to a more appropriate area. tech articles is generally for write ups that people put together. Please don't substitute numbers for words.

I know you said it was budget, but king spring will make you a pair of springs in any configuration you want for abotu $180.

Too many to choose from. Did you watch part 2? Gotta love that aventador, some wicked lines on that body. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QucuTI1pTy8

not a bad plan off attack, not cheap if you pay someone though you can buy carby kits for them and DIY it.

start with: Shed loads of carby cleaner.

depends how crap the suspension is! Most guys who lower their cars that much use stiff springs and crap shocks. bounce all over the road as they have minimal grip, and spill their coffee. go a little softer on the springs, and a much better shock absorber and you can control the spring/body weight much better. my ke70 was pretty damn low, but i had wheels that didnt hit the body, and i only had 6kg fronts and about 3kg/mm rears with not the fanciest shocks, just KYBs, but i feel they were very well matched to the springs. was actually suprisingly comfortable when driving around, i reckon i could have gone even softer on the front and made an even better improvement. and even with the car that low, the wheels could move a more than 100mm in both compression and extension.

i want one of each please http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucqQ95zWpro&feature=player_embedded#!

hah! i didnt even notice the wheels.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/caterham-super-7-1998-11798118?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=0&eapi=2&__N=1246%201247%201252%201282%204294966911%201216&silo=Stock&Range=Price:Min,Max~0.5&sort=default caterham 7 style car (ASP clubman or something) but with apparnetly ke70 corolla rear axel and front suspension? i can't see much ke70 on that front end:S

have the switch setup on the bottom of your accelerator pedal, so it only turns off the alternator over half throttle. oooh ooh! you could set it up so when you hit the brakes the alternator turned on! Just like the F1 KERS system :P

what i want to know is, do you realise how miniscule the power losses are? ~13.8V x 50A x 1/60 (efficieny guess) = 1150W. ~ 1kw of power. (admitedly add a bit more for belt losses etc....but still....) but i guess for a race car, everybit helps, altezzas suggestion sounds good, switch the energising wire.

sounding quite excelent. Has certainly come along way since i looked over it as a bare shell a few yrs ago!!! What rally are you going to?

hmmm interesting. when every i have a drama with 1 single cylinder playing up, i try to eliminate anything. so spark plugs and leads have been taken care of. swap the coil pack son 5 and 6 and see if 5 stuffs up? next step is compression test, and see if clr 6 shows up anythign funny... perhaps your oil or water is going into cylinder 6 (headgasket, dodgy valve stem seal), causing clr 6 to misfire.... only guesses really.