ke70dave

in about 8hrs ill be happy. as ill be walking out the door i just walked in. and going to gold class tonight! that will make me happy. (anyone seen "super 8" yet?) and then going for a drive to mt nebo tomorrow for a bbq, that will make me happy! and a guy is coming on Sunday to look at my ke70 that is for sale, pending result, that wont make me happy.

the problem with all this talk is that unless you do an absolutely brilliant job, spend a fortune, you wont end up with a car that drives as good as what you started with. a GT4 celica will always be better in everyway than a gt4/ke10 hybryd. sure have a crack at it as an academic exercise, but don't expect it to be better than what you started with unless you poor an extremely large amount of cash at it.

curious as to whats so bad about the standard ones? the lights on my dash are super bright...never had any dramas not being able to see?

ahh so the diesel ones do exist!!! i bought a corolla book from the toyota museum in japan. talked about the diesel versions. they even had sedan diesels too! any chance you could get us an engine bay pic? be interested to see what this diesel looks like .

i would have through t that any oil on the flywheel will get burnt off pretty quick with a few take offs (once you fix the oil leak source) but yeah you can buy clutch plates on their own, my mate ordered one through super cheap auto for his rx7, just have to have the right part number. and say "order me this from exedy, part number *blah*"

edit: phil beat me too it, sorta. 1 major difference is that the sedans use coil springs in the rear, where as wagons use leaf springs. ratios are probably different as well. but the spring different is the main one. completely different setup in the rear.

High comp, "dual sidies" extractors will probably cost you more than a basic turbo setup. and could potentially be 50% slower....

what the hell is piston sex?

spring and shock condition (especially shocks) will drastically change braking ability. how are your shocks? once your tyres are locked, your brakes aren't doing anything. you are just dragging your tyres along the ground. all cars will slow down "slowly" if you lock up the tyres. holding the tyres right on the limit of traction while braking, that's how you get the car to slow down quick! unfortunately not easy to do in an emergency situation. this is where ABS is invaluable.

hey champ. sorry i didnt see this thread. top tip: avoid putting ANYTHING fuel related INSIDE the car. most people are lazy, and just bolt it in the boot = dodgy. for your intank pump: http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Tech:Engine/A_Series/Installing_EFI_Lifter_Pump_into_AE86_Fuel_Tank i followed that, works brilliantly. now for your surge tank. you do not need a very big one, mine in my 4age ke70 is only 600ml. its quite small. i bought this one: http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?cPath=57_40_29&products_id=126&osCsid=j7r0f8e1cimn4b2fqcddmn7us2 combine that with an external fuel pump (get a small one, bosch 911 puts out 130L/hr, all you need. a few rubber hoses, a bit of ingenuity it will all fit under you car. a dodgy photo of my fuel stuff under my car (a sedan admitedly, but surely there is a simliar spot on the wagon? http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/ke70dave/completewithouttank.jpg i shoved it up between the fuel tank and the beam that runs across the car, i took the fuel tank out to mount it. i hope this helps mate. oh and my fuel system has been 100% reliable, 100% silent, and 0% fuel smell in the car!

haha thats quite harsh! but quite true...

this is the first year i don't think i will be getting a tax return. worked full time this whole financial year, pretty much did 40hrs/week. = exact tax taken out each week. i might get my financial advisor to do the tax return though...see if they can get me something:P

i usually (yes it happends often) spread the metal bit open with a pair of pliers, put glass inside with rubber bit, put whole thing in vice..and squeeze it. then it will probably fall off again about 1 week later. silicon is the way to go!

i bought a 400 dollar ke70 a few yrs ago. figured i could do it cheaper that way. i was sort of half right. i got it on the road for about an extra 400-500 (brakes, steering rack, few other bits and peices) mechanical parts are cheap for these cars, what is the killer is body work. VERY expensive to pay someone to do it, and time consuming to DIY it. i did a dodgy repair on some rust to get it passed RWC, that has come back now though. luckily its already RWC'd ;) i should have bought a nicer car to start with though, would have saved alot of trouble.

if rust caueses a hole in the car, or it looks bloody aweful, it is fround uppon. i had 5c sized hole in the rear of my ke70, they wouldnt let it through because "it could let fumes into the cabin" i pointed at the open from window...but got a blank stare. for a RWC it needs to be up to scratch, good tyres, no rust, all mechanics working like they should, no loose suspension parts (ie busted ball joints etc) essentially the car needs to be worthy of traveling on the road...

Tercel is only 3ac, so your fun will be limited by a fairly week drive train. Why not just buy a tercel and put a 20v 4age in? Heaps less work, and heaps more fun;) just don't go snapping gears and youll be right.

i have a similar anecdote: droving back from skiing about 2yrs ago, mates brand new VW golf (2009 model i believe, turbo diesel DSG) I'm driving at around 11pm at night (4 people in car, 3 asleep), one of the nice shiny free ways just outside of sydney. 110km/h on cruise control. perfect night, damn cold, but no clouds. a largish animal jumped out in front of the car from the centre of the highway, looked like something about the size of a big pig...might have been a large dog? or a wombat? for some reason i didnt hit the skids i managed to swerve around it, quick to the left than quick to the right again to straighten it up, was quite violent. (still at 110km/h mind you), stability control light gave a quick flash up, i woke up everyone in the car as they thought they were gonna die. not sure why i didn't just hit the skids and slam into it, maybe ive conditioned myself to swerve not skid. i don't think i even touched the brakes at all, just kept steady accelerator. owner of the car (who was sitting in the back) said: "if that happens to anyone else on the trip, don't do what Dave did, just hit it", favorite comment for rest of trip was "don't slow, mow".

i think in order to dignose: 1: bleed cooling system, park car up hill, open radiator cap, start car, let it run without a radiator cap for a good 15mins. it may overflow, but all the air should come out. give radiator hoses a few good squeezes, help the process along. 2: compression test on engine, make sure you have something decent, if one result is down, then you MAY have have blown gasket, if they are all the same go to 3. 3: put a small bit of oil down each cylinder. and repeat compression test. if it gets significantly better, your rings are on their way out. if it doesn't (and your original results were low, or one pot was significantly lower than rest), maybe you valve stem seels are on the way out. I'm putting my money on you have air in you cooling system causing your presurised radiator (from when you changed it), and your rings or valve stem seals are on their way out, which is causing air out your oil cap. or you did something dodgy on your HG changing, and its not sealing, which is causing it too put air through your oil galleries and your cooling system (bit rare to blow both though?) my 4age actually changes idle speed when you remove oil cap, the rings are that stuffed, since it has the crank case breather going back to through the intake manifold. (ive done the valve stem seals). but its been going for 2yrs, and i expect it to go for another 3+

DIY ABS = not a good idea. the computer that control's the ABS needs to be different for EVERY car, you can't just go and slap on ABS from another car. there is a good discussion on ABS here from a motorsport point of view: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets9.html (courtesy of altezzaclub, posted the link a few weeks back) the locking up of brakes could be the skinny (and crap) tyres that come standard on ke70s. with my ke70, stocko ae86 brakes (a bit bigger, and vented, than ke70), with 195/50/r15 federal semi slicks, it will pull your face off before the tyres lock....

6.1/7.1 compression is far to low i think. that's 1920's engine specs. when it comes to turbo, standard engines and reliability, it is all in the tune. a forged engine may explode on 4psi with a poor tune, a standard engine may take 18psi for the next 3yrs with a good tune;) so comments such as "i heard 15psi is good on standard internals" is quite silly, since you have no idea on the condition on the tune, how hard it was driven etc. it may have been on 15psi, with no ignition advance, running pig rich, and making no power at all, but turbo was still producing 15psi! soo many turbo 3tc's around (not on here, other websites) some good reasearch should reveal alot of relevant information. i say forget carby suck through. convert to EFI using a programmable ecu.

there is an earth near the rear tail light (inside the car), there is also one front right hand side of the engine bay. both have given me dramas before (when I've forgotten to put them back) by earth i mean a ring connector on some wires, which you put under a bolt.

woah woah woah!!! so many questions!! check the following in the following order: bulbs fuses grounds how did this all begin, all of a sudden they all stopped working?

VRS kit is the kit you buy that contains all the seals you need to replace when you change head gasket. namely the head gasket itself, few other gaskets, water pump etc. o rings here and there. they are usually around 100bucks on their own. stands for "valve regrind set", all the stuff you need when you do valves on a head (ie take off head). yep flushing radiator is a good idea, as well as testing (and possible replacing) thermostat. thermostats are only 20bucks or so. they need to explore all avenues of the engine, to work out what caused the head gasket to go in the first place (overheating yeah, but how?). which is why they quote so much.

ring some up. get a feel for prices. for a head gasket job on any motor, i reckon its at least 800bucks for a shop to do it. complexity of motor asside, it still takes time.

you need to go "use full editor" in the posting box. then hit the upload button. you can't do it from the "quick post" area.