LittleRedSpirit

Ive seen a few sets that were widened by morons that were not welded, just to save money and cause they didnt know what they were supposed to do. Ive seen some old sets of three piece racing rims, compomotoves I think, they were able to be pulled down and bolted together with wider outers for different applications. They were never welded to allow this. Some without welds have silicon or gaskets of some description to seal them.

You will find the best three piece wheels have the inner and outer barrels welded together.

The last guy was the funniest, he got mad and accused people who didn't like him of hacking rollaclub to disrespect his car or something. This one is only half as amusing because the OP has enough sense to ask before going troppo.

Just bought a steamer from Godfreys, some razorblades, and removed the faulty tinting. Worked great.

Rian, you're up to the fun part where every single thing you do yields refinement of a car that is use-able. Whats rattling? What arent you happy with specifically? We can easily enhance the driving experience.

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6572/arms01copygl3.jpg

Offset I think.

More good news for this car: I have the power steering arms, missing decal, and a working ac pump on route from Adelaide next week thanks to Luke from AE86 dc. Looking forward to cold ac for summer. Woot! Still havent cleaned inside it, the dust is original, I can't bear remove it, haha.

You'll be right. I can come and help you fine tune the things you arent happy with one day when its running. :wootjump:

Any good fabricator can weld a coilover sleeve kit onto your struts that will allow you to order the correct weight of spring from any source, and adjust the height. Check out the HSD coilover kit from Otomoto, I'm sure he will ship to you.

don't bother modifying the 4ac. Best thing to do is install a 4age. You can't really get extractors for them, and there are a million other reasons why. It will not ever be very fast or torquey unless you boost it, and that's not ideal either as its a lot of work for minimal gain.

It has no monetary value aside from scrap metal value, but it is a nice idea to give it to whoever can fix it.

Those modern euro cars usually have swept back strut towers, you need to consider where the axles sit to consider the balance. Ive looked into this idea before. Its around 180kg for an engine and box with what you need to run it attached to it with the 2grfe. There are several difficult custom fabrication projects involved. The bell housing is the first one. Just mating it to a tranny. It is similar to the S/Y/MZ/VZ/AZ pattern. So w5x is a possibility. It would bolt up to any of these housings with minimal mods. Starter positions are different on different housings. You could also look into adapting an r154 with a 1GR housing from a Hilux and a custom adapter/spacer for the housing to overcome the longer 2wd r box input shaft. Once you bolted this up, you need a starter. I'm not sure where the Hilux 1gr housing puts it. I know its a choice between fitting it from the front and cutting away any extra metal on the block if it interferes, ala 2azfe, or its make a custom rear mount bell housing that holds the starter low and from the rear so it misses the firewall. A lot like where an rx-8 starter is if you've ever seen one. It may be easier to have a custom housing manufactured. This could solve both issues in one build. The there is the offensively tall and annoying intake system on the 2gr. You see in toy sprintas car there, it sits really high. Id be trying to change to something that's lower and higher volume, possibly itbs. The there is the difficulty of tuning the multiple vvti systems, means you will most likely need a very good ecu and tuner to make it run and find all the available power once its running. Add diff and brake upgrades,safety upgrades and some serious suspension mods to the mix and you have a hefty project. Its a great idea, as a lot of the heavy rotating areas of the motor sit back a fair way. However its still just as long if not longer than a 4age once its got all it needs, plus a higher volume radiator, that will sit forwards of it. It can be done with great balance but would still need minor to medium level tunnel mods to do right.

I just did some toyodiy research and found that rt142 and st141 steering arms fit. I'm looking for some power steering arms to speed up the steering.

Thing is going great. I found some brand new old stock fuel injectors on ebay, fitted those, as well as cleaned out the Throttle body and manifold chambers, and its made such a difference! Its like night and day. It used to idle higher and much poorer, now it idles at 850revs, 600 when its in drive, it never wavers, makes more horse power and just generally feels like a brand new engine. Goes a lot better cold also. Now its running good, I need to give it an awesome detail and wash. Its still dusty inside from when I got it. It also needs a buff like any white car that has sat still for a long time it has some streaks on the duco.

Looks solid.

Well my comments are more reading between the lines, in my limited experience its hard to make a car handle grass and tarmac well, and the way to get a more consistent set up between the two would be to have a more similar amount of grip available. Changing from rally to street tyres for different grass events is a bit odd and makes it again hard to point your set up in any one direction. Camber is great if you have the controlled body roll to plant the tyre flat down on the road while cornering. A soft rear end will enhance its grip by allowing it to squat and put more weight down, but also tend to lighten and push the front and doze the dirt as you have been doing. The raised front will also not help this. Try a more uniform ride height between front and rear, try softer front springs, add a degree or 2 of negative camber to the mix, and use a consistent tyre that will allow you to build on your set up from event to event.

Those are similar in the spoke but different in many ways. I consider it its own animal. Nothing is original. If you take it down to the nth degree all the atoms that shit is made of used to be star farts anyhow.

You need rally tyres bud. Youll never do anything other than understeer followed by oversteer on street tyres in a turbo rwd car on grass. Its really not worth setting your car up way different when all you need is more grip, a soft rear end and a little bit of camber. Having the nose raised will tend towards understeer and lowering it too far can induce oversteer problems.

Hahaha, worlds record largest pedal car.

Yeah, that's life I guess. Birth and death. Now its a rolling shell, it just got a lot cheaper. Haha. Going to cash out of the rego tomorrow. Motor is sold. Looks like the fuel system is sold too most likely. I think someone wants front brakes, and someone else wants the clutch and flywheel setup, if the noisy throw out bearing hasn't killed the springs. Got a loose T50 here now, but the rest will stay together so Its rolling and I can relocate it.

Noooooooo

Got a bunch of bends and joiners for the cooling system, plus some ducting in the mail from the UK for this, as well as some new grease caps for the front wheel bearings.

And today is the day this car comes off the road for good. :osama:

Very cool.