dfunkt

i have no first hand knowledge of anything, just going by others that i've seen/read 4 point is fine, most cars change to being only able to seat 2 because rear passenger safety is compromised with the bars in the back. 6 point is uncertifiable because of the bars extending to the front. they are dangerous to the driver and front passenger, as well as a hinderance in getting out of the vehicle.

i am yet to take an actual sick day myself in my current job. i get 20 days a year, and have 5 left. my partner has used all of hers, and has just bought herself another 10 days thru salary sacrifice. getting sick is just something that happens to some people more than others, so why should either party be punished for being/not being sick? luke, do you propose that people can have as many sick days as they need each year? can i work for you?? i'll come in each monday to say i'm not feeling the best this week and then go home. :party:

weekend was a success :party: got the old box out, swapped what i needed to, and put it back in again between the hours of 9 and 4 on saturday. managed to find someone to help, now i just gotta help him take out and put in his vn gearbox (soooo not gonna be fun) didn't remember to get a seal for the rear of the box, so will be getting that sometime to go with the pile of parts i've set aside/ordered. i'm not worried about it leaking oil, nor about the exhaust leak it had/still has. i found it is leaking between the two centre exhaust ports. no chance of fixing it besides the dodgy "double-gasket" job. it will be coming off the road by the end of the month for its upgrade anyway. Xtreme HD clutch kit Alloy radiator (should be going in this time) Pacemaker extractors Twin 40mm Dellorto's (whenever i get down to Franga again to pick them and the extractors up) no pics of anything really (too bloody lazy to upload them) dF

big no update time....and this is just gonna be filler also, no pics (don't have time to organise them) new (2nd hand ones from a parts car) rear shocks have gone in and well as some koni red's in the front with pedders low springs. front sits at the same height it was, rear sits about 1" higher. 2nd sounds kinda like i've got a dogbox, so will be pulling it out and swapping it for a ke70 5spd this weekend. it's already up on stands with the top two bolts removed from the gearbox. here's hoping i can get it all done in a day (by myself again as everyone disappears for the weekend) dF

i also have an unknown fitting in the sump of my 5K. i thought it was for oil temp. but have never bothered to hook it up to anything to test it. i had a look around http://www.toyodiy.com for a picture or listing of what it could be, but haven't found anything yet. have looked at ke72, km20, km26 and km30.

1. take your tools into the wreckers 2. remove stock manifold from the pano 3. try and fit the extractors 4. ......... 5. profit

Cheers Hiro, forever putting the technical info into light.

take your gearknob off and measure across the top of the threaded section. 8mm is early, 12mm is late. i can't remember if the height of the thread is taken into account, anyway, there's a big enough difference between them to tell.

early gear knob thread is 8 x 1.25 late gear knob thread is 12 x 1.25

I slept in last friday because i thought it was saturday. partner kept stealing the blankets and was yelling at me to get up, but i just kept turning away and saying "it's saturday today, no work day" she got quite angry lol

yeah, raven has a te27 cluster (possibly 2 i can't rember) i also have one in my 20

how about you do it once and do it properly, else just give me the $ you're gonna be spending and save you the pain for building 2 motors that'll blow up.

so long as the car makes it outta the driveway it'll make it anywhere.......of wait, you're thinking of taking a ke70. forget what i said :wink: honestly, just a basic tool set, bottle of chemiweld, 5L of oil, 10L of water and a gregory's will get you thru.

no length difference in k40 and k50 gearboxes. rear flange on the tailshaft is different between jap and BW diffs. these are interchangable.

and of course you will never drag anyone once it's all together again????? ;)

since you found the MMS website, search it for their phone number and call them. as weird as it sounds, not all the info in the world exists on the net.....who'da thunk it??! there are te27 flares on ebay, these are fibreglass copies. original te27 flares are metal and will set you back several hundred dollars just to buy (if you can find some)

i love heaping sh!t on the rolla's i own/have owned. while they've got plenty of good points, there's also a fair whack of bad ones.

all ke20's haev cable clutch. the te27 however had a hydrolic clutch (as they ran a 2t engine like the ta22)

the koni's are an oil cartridge, so they aren't 'lifting' the car any. it might just be that the springs are that much stiffer that it won't allow the car to settle as low as i'd imagined. i will be taking the car for a short drive and see how things look afterwards. hopefully it should reveal what i (still) need to do. thanks all :)

jackass hardware store style.......

ke20's have a cable clutch from factory. most likely the clutch master is from the ta22.

regardless of the shock stroke, the car shouldn't be so high nor should it have such awful positive camber.... so drive it with nasty positive camber to get wheel alignment and "hope" they can get rid of the positive camber. then after 2-3 weeks go back and get it 'checked' again to fix up the change after the springs have settled...

i wasn't sure whether to post this here or in the ke thread, but anyway....from the top: removed the original front springs and shocks from my ke20 over the weekend. the inserts weren't OEM, but a replacement made sometime around 9 years ago. the springs i believe to be original. (i can't see any reason for them to have been swapped) to replace the old shocks and springs, i have koni red's (bought from yahoo.jp) and low springs from pedders (i cross referenced the part numbers from their website and confirm they are lows). the koni red's have the same length, both at full compression and full extension as the shocks i removed. the removed springs were about 1-2" higher in free length than the lows. and as it stands now: upon getting everything bolted up and letting the car back down onto all four wheels, the front end is still sitting at about the same height as it was before the swap. there is also a god awful amount of positive camber on both wheels. pics of awful camber (excuse the bad phone pics, i haven't been home in daylight yet to get a nicer photo) passenger driver my thoughts are the old shocks and springs were so rooted, that they were already giving the lowered look. if worse comes to worse, i'll just put my old springs back in with the koni's on saturday, try and solve this one variable at a time. all thoughts and questions appreciated. cheers dFUNKT

i have used one about that size when over in europe. soap-on-a-rope is a wonderful thing, you tie it to the tap and you'll never have to bend over to pick it up :)

pissed off enough to post twice......must be serious :P and is this the 3rd time you've complained about your partner being a c0cksm0ker???? "survey says: dump his arse!"