Mic

Nice to hear it will keep the factory look with period correct wheels.Definitely not many factory look Ke/Te's around anymore unfortunately. Good luck with the build.

That's good to hear. Definitely makes the value go up, not just monetary but sentimental as well knowing the effort to source all the parts. Are you going to add the 'race' ductail and front fender? Or purely keeping it a factory look? Also, are you planning on running the original wheels? I looked over the rest of this thread but I couldn't see any mention about the wheels; original or aftermarket.

It could be worth it depending on how much time, money and skills you have, but for most people it would not be worth it unless you have a mass collection of genuine TE27 gear, which you seem to have. Interesting question, do you have all original trimmings and bits to go in the '27? Or have you had to be reproduction parts on bits you couldn't find? Nonetheless, will be good to see how it progresses. I imagine time is the toughest thing to find at the moment?

Definitely looks like a viable option, considering you have a lot of the other parts! The other one of Yahoo Auctions does appear to be quite similar to your shell (actually I thought it was the same photo you originally put up) but there does appear to be quite a bit of rust in the other shell. Mick.

Ok cool, glad to hear it worked out well. Keen to see some pics when you get a spare moment. Cheers, Mick

Hi Parrot, How did the shell end up turning out? Haven't seen any updates in quite a while. Cheers, Mick.

Hi guys, Well my brother tried to sell his car before he moved overseas permanently, but time is now nearly all but run out (leaves in a weeks' time) and he is so busy organising the big move, so I am selling his car for him. This is an amazingly clean V35 300GT Skyline and has been kept in the garage since he bought it at the beginning of the year (Jan 2012). Judging by what is for sale on Carsales, eBay and Skyline forums, this has to be one of the best value for money V35 Skyline sedan's available in Australia right now. It was serviced in July which inc. general servicing plus new fan belts. Rego is until 11th January, 2013. I am happy to help with interstate transport (at buyers' additional expense), transport costs are pretty reasonable to all states and if someone in WA is keen, to give you an idea of price, the last time I had a car freighted over (in August) it was about the $1000 mark and took approx. 7 working days. Please contact me if you have any questions via PM. This is a great car for P platers, auto-only drivers who want a bit of power or just perfect for someone looking for a nice comfy daily with plenty of poke. Features 2002 Nissan Skyline V35 300GT sedan 3.0 litre V6 (191kw ) iPhone/iPod connectivity (professionally installed by Cronulla Car Sound) Dual climate air conditioning Automatic with tip-tronic Power windows, mirrors and front seats (adjustable rear seats) Bose factory 7 speaker stereo 6 disc stacker FM radio band expanded Xenon headlights Factory floor mats Central locking P-plate legal Limited warranty valid until January 2015 (please PM to discuss) 48,800k's (approx) Overall the condition of paint and interior is great. My brother had an authorised MTA check (I think MTA, could have been NRMA) before he bought the car to make sure it was all good. (The report is available for those who are interested.) The two things that were picked up on the report were the brake rotors had a bit of shudder and tyres were on the wear markers. The dealer put on brand new tyres and had the brake discs machined before it was sold, so any NRMA or MTA check should come up all clear. Price - $10,000ono. If genuinely interested please feel free to call to discuss price. Any low-ballers offering $6k because that's all you have, please don't bother asking if I'll take it because you won't even be recognised. Location - Sutherland Shire, Sydney Contact - PM or if you call before 24th October, please contact zero 4 one 2 677 97 six or zero 42 one 443 7 double zero to discuss. After the 24th Oct please only call zero 42 one 443 7 double zero. More photos can be found here - http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z409/Megz_w/V35%20300GT%20Skyline/ I have tried to be as honest as possible so if you are genuinely interested please call to discuss. Thanks. Cheers Mick

Yeah there are some OK photos. I didn't go mental taking heaps of photos, but just took some nice ones. Cheers Mick

http://s1188.photobucket.com/albums/z409/Megz_w/Muscle%20Car%20Masters/?start=all Cheers Mick

Yeah I ended up going with my Dad, I have a few photo's of the Toyota's (mainly the AE86's). Will put them up when I get a chance. Good day and perfect weather. A bit disappointed that the Toyota's and that class couldn't really open it up and just did demo laps. Cheers Mick

Google works wonders: http://www.4age.net/tech/4age/index.htm http://www.billzilla.org/4agmods.htm http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/4AGE#4A-GE_.2816-valve.29 Cheers Mick

Parrot, there is a big thread on Toymods in the Tech section on spray painting, the last few pages are pretty similar to what you are doing. If you have the time to read through the whole thread (93 + pages), there is some useful info and some of the guys really seem to know what they are talking about (others on there, unfortunately don't). Info on compressors, guns and style etc. Cheers Mick

Hey Tally, No worries. For a N/A 20v to be beating a 4agte, it would need some work done to it. I just like the sound and the response of the BT 20v. Amazing to drive (even in FWD). For the dizzy issue, you can run Coil On Plug (COP) setup. check it out here: http://www.86garage.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=10869 Or SamQ's website shows it. This eliminates the annoying dizzy on the back of the head. With the mounts, it will just be a matter of trial and error. I have a feeling you may run into problems as the ke30 mounts would be a tiny bit different to ke20 mounts. But just have a play around when you are putting the motor in, and adjust to suit. Cheers Mick

Ah yeah cool, not too far. Well I guess if you want to keep it legal, just talk to and engineer on the do's and don't's, then go from there. Well if you have the space, take your time and get it right. That is mine, I sold that front section now (personally not my thing), so I will be running standard front with Te27 style lip and flares. Good stuff mate, I look forward to the pics. Cheers Mick

Hey Tally, Thanks for using my old engine bay in three of the pics haha (yellow with 16v 4age and yellow with 16v 4agte). Man I miss that '25! I was only 18 when I had it and struggled to put the motor in with the limited tools and knowledge I had (you can tell with some of the elements of that engine bay), but I loved that car. Anyway, depends on what motor you want. In my opinion, I would tend to lean towards a BT 20v if you are keeping N/A, but would go 16v if you are thinking about going turbo down the track. For my '25, I am going to go BT 20v. Straight out of the box the 20v has plenty of power and sounds amazing. I am driving a Ae9X seca ultima with a BT 20v and the the motor screams when the throttles open right up. As well as being able to easily source the RWD water piping kit for the 20v's and being able to run the standard computer (with COP setup modification), i'd say it would be the better choice. Plus it's a newer motor. With the mounts I had, they fit the 16v pretty well and it didn't hit the firewall, but when we tried to put a 20v in a ke20 with the same mounts, it hit due to the head being a tiny bit longer. So if the mounts are for a 16v, you may need to sit the motor a bit more forward or give the firewall a bit of a love-tap. Good luck with it. Cheers Mick

Hi Joel, Sounds good, can't wait to see pics. Where abouts in Sydney? I am down Sutherland way. 4agze will be a sweet motor to go in the '25. I put a 4agze in an old '20 a few years back, I had it running and sounded amazing, unfortunately didn't get to finish it. Is it going to be a street car? In regards to upgrades, as you said people might get annoyed, but there is a lot of info out there on upgrades for Ke2X's so it just takes some time to search. A few guys on here have done the AE86 strut's with the setup you said, I am even looking at this option down the track, so have a look at some thread's and you will find their experiences. There is a guy on Toymod's and here (bananaman) who upgraded to R31 struts w/coilovers. He even did a write up on it. Then there is the Hilux/Pug/Corona upgrade which is another option. There is plenty of thread's on this upgrade too. For the Hilux rear, unless you work in a diff shop or you can buy one already fabricated to suit (they pop up from time-to-time on eBay and here), you are going to have to pay to get one shortened and fabricated to fit. Places in Sydney do this, I can't remember the names, but do a bit of searching and i am sure a few threads will say where people have gone. Engine mounts, if you are handy with a welder, you should be able to make your own mounts or modify mounts to suit, just need to have an engine crane to play with. Have a look on here (as well as Club K and Toymods) on which mounts to modify, quite a few 4age's in Ke2x's these days. Also you can mock up the mounts with wood/cardboard then go to a metal fabricators and get them to make them up for you. Good luck with it mate, the '25's are one of the best Corolla's to own (in my opinion). Take care of it too! Cheers Mick

Sounds like a crack in the head. I wouldn't put it back together. It probably worked well whilst the bolt was holding it in place as it hadn't been disturbed. But if you try to put it back in, more than likely it will leak. Cheers Mick

The standard internals of the 4agze bottom end are forged. Plenty of info on the net about it. Cheers Mick

Well the ECU is designed to run with TVIS, so it is a place to start. Also does the motor rev properly or does it feel as if there are low/flat spots whilst you rev it? The 100kw 4a's ECU has different plugs to the Bigport (i am pretty sure), so you can't change them over unless you change the plugs and possibly(?) a few sensors to suit the ECU. There are quite a few computers out there, but I guess it depends on what you want to achieve with the motor. If you aren't looking to modify the motor (upgrade to turbo or modified NA, down there road), then it may not be worth getting an aftermarket computer, as it will be quite costly - ECU cost price, installation, tuning etc. ECU's come with a base tune, but you will need someone to fine tune it to reach it's full potential, so the costs add up. How did you get the manifold on without the TVIS plate in there? I am pretty sure the holes don't match up correctly. Mick.

Are you running the standard ECU and you have taken out TVIS? That could be your problem seeing the computer is designed to run with it. Cheers Mick

I will be out that way (Oakhurst) picking up some car parts tomorrow morning, might be a good chance to pop in on my way back. My old boss is racing in there too. Cheers Mick

There is a guy on Toymods putting a 2ZZ in an AE82. Cheers Mick

RWG - Joel is off 3TC.com Parrot - Ok cool no worries. Thanks again. Sorry for getting a bit side tracked, what I am getting at though, is seeing Ke20 seals aren't available, how much of a task would it to be to modify a ke25/te27 genuine one to suit? Obviously would be a bit of modifying involved. That may be an option for WET.K30. Just an idea. Cheers Mick

Thanks for the info. Yeah I contacted Joel just before, so will see what he still has available (by the looks of it, most things). I really don't want to bother with Thai items as most feedback seems to be negative. There are a few ebay US auctions with the TE27 1/4 window seals which state they are made in Japan. They even look like better options to the Thai manufactured items. Anyway, thanks again. I am sure that will help a lot of people out. Cheers Mick

I saw this on 3TC.com http://www.3tcgarage.com/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=9456 Not Ke20, but Te27/ke25. Parrot - You seem to have replied and bought products (?), any feedback? Cheers Mick