parrot

Actual TRD performance parts are pretty difficult to get a hold of for 80's models. The focus is current models, and then things like stickers, gear knobs and horn pushes Yahoo Japan is a good place to find some stuff. But for your bushes, just get whatever. Spend a bit of time learning how to install, lubricate and how and how not to torque them up.

Well you don't need to get TRD. If I was you, I would sort your springs and shocks and see how it turns out. Drive it for a bit, do an event (join TCCAV!) so you can push it harder. Then work out where to go from there. No rush

I recently sold off my bling adjustable white line bars and have gone for TRD non adjustable instead. It's a trap going too big a bar on the back as the suspension can't work to keep the tyre patch in contact with the road. If you do put an lsd in, a fantastic improvement, it does tend to induce understeer and you need to increase the rear bar accordingly. I've always liked having a larger bar on the front, with the view that a rear bar complements this. This worked well for me in years past in a wide range of club Motorsport. In a perfect world we would endlessly adjust spring rates and bar sizes to get it right, but who can afford that. There is no doubt that a poorly setup car is very unpleasant to drive at speed, and subtle changes can transform things. But many people just specify hard everywhere and wonder why it doesn't handle. Often after they go off the road backwards. Bottomed out adjustable struts with super hard springs and adjustable dampers at maximum hard does not make for a good handling car. I'm intrigued by this helper spring idea!

It's more complicated than that of course. I gather your car is a daily driver, and what you do with swaybars is influenced by spring rates, camber and tire size & compound etc. Then what you are hoping to achieve. As a reasonable guesstimate, the trd bars for an AE86 are 24mm front and 16mm rear. If you lower the rear, an adjustable pan hard rod is a good idea to enable you to recentre the diff relative to the body. Then what do you do about the trailing arms etc etc etc ...........

You could head down to your local wreckers and see what they have. There were some quite tasty 80's Celica ST162 wheels, one of which silverra23 fitted to his AE95. He paid $45 for this. The issue is the padding, as minimal as it would have been on a KE70.

Your best bet is probably an AE82 twin cam wheel. They are getting a little bit old now, but you can still find good ones without worn leather. Of course, you could always get a worn one recovered as long as the underlying rubber grip hasn't been damaged. Make sure it doesn't have any broken pins on the horn pad. This pulls off and is pushed back on. They come up for sale often enough, sometimes at ridiculous prices. Personally, I wouldn't pay more than say $150 for a good one with minimal wear.

I would be pretty skeptical that the "Nardi" is genuine, so the answer will certainly be no. You should ask the seller if is is genuine and if it complies with the ADR's. Whether you believe them if they say yes is up to you. There was a lengthy thread quite sometime ago about what turned out to be fake Nardi's on Aus Ebay. If you search around you should find it. The fakes can be pretty poor quality. Essentially they can sell whatever they like, and the onus is on you. I imagine your KE70 would have had some sort of padded steering hub. If you go away from this to the wheel you propose, it will likely be a defect if the police stick to the letter of the regulations. The hub ad claims it is ADR compliant, but as long as it isn't a quick release type hub, I think the issue is more about the wheel you bolt to it than the hub itself. Edit: here it is http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/60006-nardi-deep-corn-thinking-its-fake/page__hl__%20fake%20%20nardi 2012, I'm getting old

So we have finished the rounds of presents in the parrot household, and can relax for an hour or so before the arrival of the extended family. A mercifully late start to the morning now both kids have teenage years....... No need for putting out snacks for santa, or strewing the verandah with rolled oats and chewed carrots for the reindeers. Every year mrs parrot, a keen market and op shopper, manages to locate some sort of Toyota themed gift. This year some very tasteful hammered aluminium beakers for the glovebox. Comes with its own bottle opener, which says rather a lot about the average Cressida buyer. Previous efforts have included Toyota first aid kits, road atlases & other detritus no doubt handed out to purchasers of only top of the range crowns and coronas. Not aspirational Corolla buyers. I'm sure others out there have caring understanding Toyota tolerating partners. What else is there you have in your treasure collections that can I can hope for next year From us here in the parrot garage, wishing everyone in corolla-land a happy and safe Christmas and new year

Harsh, very harsh. Was in the Bunning's car park in Hawthorn this afternoon in the Xtrail - absolutely dwarfed by the monster Toyota 4WD mega truck.. Very handy if you come across a pothole down Glenferrie Rd

http://performanceignition.com.au/ Edit: It makes no sense to modify your engine as you state, and NOT get the distributor recurved

Sorry all, has been a hellish couple of weeks. First of all, the diagram above is definitely not for the KE25/TE27 on the basis that the distance between the crossmember mounting holes (centre to centre) to chassis rails should be 135mm I've measured this on a TE27 crossmember and confirmed it in the 20 series body manual. Measurement F is correct at 453mm Measurement D (within limitations of the parrot engineering skills using flat bar, set square and primitive non digital vernier calipers) is166mm I'm slightly confused by the above diagram as to where measurement B is measured from. I've measured from the top face of the mounting holes to chassis rail, to base of the engine mount (where the rubber mount sits) This measurement I have at 54mm

You can get this done by the place that has done your cam

I'll try and get them for you by the end of the week.

This is what happens as you get old Dave. Before you know it you will be fitting the baby capsule. Sick bags in the rear seat pockets for the kiddies. Roofracks for the weekly trips to Bunnings. A dash cam to document the erratic driving of those youngen's trying to crash into you as you observe all the road laws whilst they don't indicate to change lanes, cut in on you and sneer under their backward fitting caps. Slowly begin to understand why your parents behaved the way they did. Buy your next (smaller so it's easier to maintain) house, with an eye to the availability of nearby health care.

Ke30 complete diff will be wider, and I expect the spring mounts will be placed differently to ke20 so a major operation to switch the complete 30 diff into the 20, for no benefit

Once again your main problem is the bolt spacing at the steering arm. KE20 is 80mm, KE30 is I believe 87mm. So no, the strut won't bolt in. You could get more radical and use a KE30 lower arm (no idea how long that is or whether it will fit into the crossmember - shouldn't be too hard) and use the KE30 steering arms, but the KE30 steering arm is about 20mm longer than what you have now, so steering will be awful. And even then you strut insert options are not brilliant. Once again you are faced with the same old KE20 issue - the steering arm

Be careful on the bike. Virtually all my mates had Ducati's in their time. Only one still has his. All of them have pieces missing from their legs though. A good option for period "factory" light can be found under the bonnet, or much better in the boot of Crowns, or some Cressida's. The earlier ones have a glass lens and are rather nifty. Later are the same basic design but plastic and more 80's

Great news! I wouldn't be surprised if they are also fitted to something else somewhere in the world like a land cruiser or something like that, so have somehow survived. I have been able to get a variety of obscure parts for my earlier Corolla's via Amayama. But of course the majority are unavailable, especially anything to do with model specific trim. But you just never know, and it costs nothing to put in a query!

Let's hope they are still available! Now you have placed an order they will formally check for actual stock. Not guaranteed yet.

Sorry I should add. If you put in an actual request for the parts through amayama, they will check if there is actual stock available. If there are, only then do they issue you an invoice including postage. If you pay the invoice, they then ship the parts. Despite what it says in the link above, on checking via the Toyota parts warehouse in Japan, it remains quite possible that the parts are no longer available (NLA). Anyway, it is easy and commitment free to put in an enquiry

Welcome to you and your lovely car Sven. Unfortunately most of the Thai reproduction parts have a deservedly poor reputation, but when the car is 40 years old, there isn't a lot you can do. The original part number is 74811-12020-01 The last two numbers (01) signify the colour black. A quick look on the parts buying service Amayama (google it - exceptionally good parts ordering service) suggests they MAY still be available genuine for about $USD11 plus shipping which through Amayama is generally modest. https://www.amayama.com/en/search?region=152&q=74811-12020-01 I strongly recommend them. They can get parts (if still available) when your Toyota dealer is completely uninterested and doesn't even keep the part books anymore. Give it a try, and let us know how you get on. If you need any other part numbers, let me know. If you don't wish to use Amayama for some reason, googling the part number throws up many possible (and possibly useless) leads also. Failing that, there must be someone on the forum who has some second hand ones lying around, these were a very common car here in Australia. Start a post in the Wanted to Buy forum, or contact people with KE30 parts in the Vehicles wrecking sub forum found in the For Sale Car Parts Forum. Even 40 year old ones exposed to 40 years of Australian sunlight are likely to last longer than the Thai items.

Yes. 2tb bottom is the same as 2tc 3tc 2tg

http://www.retrojdm.com/ScanView.asp?ScanID=28 This is a link to the factory engine manual which may help out

The 2TG has a separate bottom chain with chain damper and chain tensioner, and another top chain to drive the camshafts with 2 chain dampers and a slipper tensioner. The bottom chain, damper and tensioner are the same on a 2TC, 3TC and 2TG. The 2TC and 3TC don't have overhead cams so don't need the top chain arrangement. The bottom chain parts are easily available as per the link you posted. The top chain parts are quite a bit harder and significantly more expensive if you do find them!

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=3tc+timing&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X3tc+timing+toyota.TRS0&_nkw=3tc+timing+toyota&_sacat=0