parrot

You would presumably need to do a trial fit and see how much length you need? I imagine it would be wheel dependent? As for long consoles. The "TE27" style is most desirable but very expensive via limited markets. In reality it was available in other xE2x chassis than the actual TE27, but you probably would have to source one originally via japan (or those that source and sell them on such as Malaysian, Thai sellers etc, or possibly via the US. Everyone knows their market value. Probably a TA22 console will be fairly close with respect to shifter / handbrake positioning. It has a clock and a change drawer with lid. Neither are likely to be readily available in the UK, so you will probably need to cruise local breaker yards looking for a local alternative.

Rebuilder is probably right! I'm not that smart. I used a soft scotch brite pad with thinners.

Probably a combination of needing a good tune and probable air leak.

The caliper tool you need is Adjusting bolt: 09756-00010

The injector power is through a separate circuit just in case you don't know. In an AE86 this is located in a different loom from the engine loom that has the 2 plugs to the ECU. The ECU simply provides the signal for the injector to pulse. Look here for the 4AGE Engine diagnostics manual which shows the circuit you need to add. http://www.aeu86.org/technical/ae86-manuals/

I had a Datsun 1200 sedan years ago. Great car. Should be good having an old school tuner setting you up. But then of course you will feel the need for a cam, head work, extractors etc etc! You know you can't resist. One tip, get rid of the standard fan and fit a electric fan. Frees up a surprising amount of horsepower on a small engine

That's great news. Fingers crossed it continues running right. Be aware that the weber will need proper setting up to get it running better than the carb you already have. Unless you are planning changes to cams, headwork etc, I would suggest staying with the 4K carb (properly rebuilt). Otherwise you may find all you add is reduced driveability and poor fuel economy.

So you have compression. That suggests your valve train is working as it should and valve clearances can't be too bad. Presumably that clears the doubt about lifters? It sometimes runs properly so the cam timing must be roughly right. You have spark. Does No. 3 plug get wet or is it dry. If that cylinder isn't working, the plug should be wet with fuel. If it isn't, where is the fuel mixture going? If it's dry, is there some sort of obstruction in the inlet runner or exhaust on that cylinder? I would still be rebuilding or swapping that carb and replacing the plugs.

I'm not convinced it's actually running on three cylinders. What are you basing this assumption on. You say the plug in cylinder 3 is dry. If it wasn't running it should be wet (unless the inlet valve is completely closed. A key clue to me is the fact that it ran correctly briefly after it backfired through the carb. Why not fit the weber then and see what happens. You still haven't given us any outcome of the compression test. Don't try and over think it. The cause is likely to be a simple one. Back to basics: spark, fuel, timing, compression.

Well I would be looking at cleaning it properly, blowing out all passages and fitting an overhaul kit before I got carried away with anything else.

I assume you have overhauled your carburettor?

Chrom Glans! I reckon I could use some of that. If you are going to rebuild the rear calipers on the AE86, be aware you need a fancy SST tool from Toyota. It is cheap - around $AUD20, but you might want to source one now in case they become unavailable. Impossible without it. Let me know if you need the part number.

I suggest you put your story up on the Toyota Car Club of Victoria page (TCCAV) You will go straight to people who are enthusiasts and value a car like this. They have a facebook page https://www.facebook.com/tccav?fref=pb

Super easy. There will be a positive feed from the ignition switch, best bet is to take this from the fuse box. An RPM signal wire from the positive side of your coil, and an earth. You will also need to tap into the instrument lighting circuit so you can see it at night. If you're not sure which is which, post up a pic of the back of the guage.

What wiring loom have you used. Have you set up your TPS properly. Was the engine running properly before you bought it.

TA22 Celica

You have a whole series of suggestions above, follow those. When you say the various sensors etc are fine, how have you actually tested these? More info is needed about how you have done your swap. Have you done a diagnostics and so on

Clearly with the amount of effort that has been expended on the car, it may well not be original, though it is clearly a K engine. A 4K wouldn't have been original fitment anyway. I wonder if it has had any work done to the engine? A standard air filter intake would suggest not, but that could have been put on to replace a set of expensive carbs that were sold separately, or perhaps they may have swapped out the engine for a standard replacement.

Now that's what I call bringing home a souvenir. It sure as hell ain't no stuffed elephant or plastic buddha. How much is it going to cost you to get it home?

Welcome Ryan. I wouldn't go into it thinking you will fix it up cheaply and easily, unless you can find reasonable second hand replacement panels locally. New panels you will struggle to find, unless perhaps you have a contact in the panel beating industry who has inside info about pattern panel replacements I would reckon. Reason being that any cars of this era that receive even modest damage will be written off by insurance companies. I doubt pattern panel suppliers would hold stock.

The latest Shannons club email has just come out with a really interesting article in Racing Garage on the Gemini domination of the 1979 Bathurst 1600cc class. There is also quite a bit said about the TE37 Levin that was entered. Worth a look.

Eeew. It's a mitsi. But at least it works!

Make sure you locate the thermostat switch after the thermostat (I think - trying to picture it in my head). There are a couple of different shape top thermo housings on the mid 80's corolla's, Camry's, Cressida's that have the switch already installed. Would be pretty surprised if one of them doesn't fit a K engine. If they fit, a very cheap way of triggering you fans via a couple of relays. Don't forget to grab a piece of wiring with the correct plug.

No. A plug will be factory or nothing. Someone here was wrecking an MS85 recently. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/85475-Wrecking-1980-MS85-Crown-Super-Saloon Failing that, look out for similar era imported higher end Toyota's such as the fancy Corona of the time. It will need to be an imported car I reckon, not AMI built

I followed this guide after fitting a 4AC top thermo housing with the fan switch to my RWD bottom housing in my AE86. Works a treat. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/95-Guide-How-to-wire-up-thermofans?highlight=Thermo+fan