parrot

You have to find out and let us know which model Camry they were. That sort of info is priceless. Your car is seriously coming along great.

Jonny Rochester built up a TE37 a few years ago. Not sure if it had flares on it, but you could ask him.

Actually, none of those are accurate. According to the factory chassis manuals Early T type T50 1.54 litres Later A type T50 1.7 litres

You guys did notice he was talking about an inner seal, not the outer O ring? Anyway, there is a guy in Canada that sells kits pretty cheaply. http://kbox.ca/catalog/product_info.php/pr...bc7efc7f8a5a0a4 Have heard only good things of these.

FWIW, I recently purchased new genuine filters for my K motor and my 4AGE. The one for the (4)K motor also has a 4A listed on its application chart, but specifically states not 4AG. As with all genuine Toyota filters these days, the filters are tiny.

If you can hear it, you can work out where it is. Unplug it

FWIW, the KE1x mount has a different genuine part number compared to a KE2x & KE3x which share a common number. Presumably the difference between the two is minor.

And dare i say it.....ebay. Just make sure you put a decent reserve on it.

Lucky for Harvie I wasn't there........ Spotted a great little dark green RT40 in Victoria St Richmond this morning. Think I saw the same car a little while ago at the servo corner of Grattan and Flemington Rd.

Well condition and originality is everything with cars like this. I've seen a couple for sale over the last year or so, and they have struggled to make $1500. Try on Toymods also.

I intend running 13 x 6 (hopefully Hayashi's) on mine though i will run AE86 front struts and a cut down RA28 T series rear. Personally I think it is a mistake to go any bigger on a small car. Can't see why you would ever need to. But of course it is a personal decision.

I can look tomorrow in the part listing, but if you can wait a few days, they are available cheap on US ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Coro...sQ5fAccessories But watch the postage

The problem you face is that there were various Carina models over the years just as there were various Celica's. I actually wasn't aware that any Carina's came to Australia. I THINK, if you look at Celica's, they were likely the same across both chassis, but depends what model Carina struts you have. Celica's / Carina's share the same workshop manual.

The UK classic car mags have quite rightly been in a lather about it for over a year. Not an issue goes by without some rescue of an incredible car. The legislation has made it very difficult to save cars scrapped under the scheme. Good to see the scheme ends about now, which I didn't know.

'Rather conveniently', I got my KE15 from Adam whilst my wife was interstate. Put it away in the yard and kept quiet. After a month she still hadn't noticed it. When I couldn't withhold my excitement any longer, initially she was moderately annoyed. But since her standard argument against buying new cars is essentially, "where are you going to put it", she was already screwed - and knew it. Now she is quite supportive of the whole thing. BUT, recently I pointed out a KE15 wreck on ebay bemoaning the fact it was so far away. She snapped! "If it was on the other side of XXXXXXX Rd (very close) you wouldn't be buying it!" Mind you, she is off overseas three times this year, so who knows what may happen.

Just for a moment there, I thought I had inadvertently clicked on AE86DC.

Oh well, at least now you will have a story to tell your kids about "the old days". So did you sort out your brakes?

Harvie, are they techno Toy Tuning strut tops? Really looking forward to seeing this finished.

There's a AE93 (or AE92?) seca twin cam in the car park at Pick Pay N Go Heatherdale rd. Pretty grubby and the engine looks to have a bit of an oil leak from somewhere up high, presumably the dizzy. But it doesn't have a for sale price on it, so imagine it's destined for the yard. Also a reasonably tidy looking MX83 that has a price of $1200 on it. If you can work on them yourself, these things have to be the bargains of the moment.

http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=32733

Unbolt the entire caliper and hang it out of the way on an old bit of coat hanger wire, not putting any stress on the brake hose. Don't unbolt the lower control arm, just the two steering arm bolts. Undo the three nuts holding the strut top, remove two of them and leave the outer most nut on by about two threads. Stick a hydraulic jack handle, breaker bar or whatever between the lower control arm and castor rod and lever down the control arm using your foot. The steering arm will come away leaving the strut assembly hanging by the nut at the top. Pull the strut clear of the steering arm, lift the strut slightly, undo the final two threads on the top nut and you are done. Edit, read your lst thread. Tap out the clip that retains the brakeline in the bracket on the strut. You then need to make a neat cut into the brakeline retaining bracket. Once you are through one side, tap the ends apart so you can slide the brakeline clear of the strut. Be careful not to cut the brakeline. better to use a hacksaw rather than an angle grinder :jamie:

I would buy some wheel ramps, or you can come over tonight and borrow some. Rest the rails on those so it is secure then hit them off with a big rubber mallet.

Make sure you let us know how you get on, and what the panel fit is like with the replacement panel.

Haven't been there for a while, but this place is pretty good and reasonably priced. http://www.coachhousebright.com.au/coach_house/accom.html

Oooh! people have died for less than that. But would expect nothing less from a KE35 owner! :)