parrot

Just chatting to Cam and realised I should update a little. Not much happening. I badly want to get my KE15 in the shed and get started on it. The AE86 is so close but I keep having minor hiccups or opportunities I can't pass up that delay things. i.e. lately, decided to pickup another AE86 GT brake proportioning valve for when I get started on the te27 (will have AE86 4 wheel discs). Look on import monster and found the complete GT fuel /brakelines with valve cheap. Have always been annoyed by the messy adaptation of the fuel lines. So bought that, waited 3 months for it to arrive. Need to pull half the car out to swap the lines over - done. Start thinking about recaro's. Mention this to aaron at Import monster when picking up some purchases, tells me he has a pair in the warehouse out of a JZA70R supra for $250! Bargain. So now working out how to fit those to AE86 rails which I picked up out of the pickapart Sprinter recently. First time I have ever seen an AE86 at the wreckers. Went to install my brakes with stainless lines I bought 4 years ago in the UK - lines don't seal due to wrong fitting on the caliper end. So they have been sent back to Fensport for replacement. Very frustrating. Otherwise, still slowly stockpiling a lot of NOS parts for the various cars. Also did a roadtrip into NSW to pickup some rare KE15 bits. Finish work on a Friday night, drive 6 1/2 hrs through Gippsland to Bombala, sleep in back of car for 2 1/2 hours, meet guy and load up car, drive 6 1/2 hrs back to Melbourne. The things we do for our cars...... My next month is a bit of a write off, so won't get anything done probably.

Couldn't you just take your KE1x pressure plate to a proper brake and clutch workshop, and have the pressure plate drilled to suit your new flywheels dowels. If the diaphragm doesn't provide enough clamping pressure, get them to rivet in a replacement diaphragm. In the days before uprated pressure plates were available off the shelf for most applications, this was what you did. Then you could use a KE1x driven plate. The average Midas won't have a clue, but find a decent clutch place and they should be able to do it.

What about one off a KE1x or KE2x! Well this is rollaclub......

Might be taking a little longer than you expected, but it always does. At least you know it is a quality rebuild, and that you have done it right first time.

No tapes, but had all the accessory wiring, brackets etc in the box. Missed the end first time and didn't sell, and was outbid the second time I think from memory. Thought it might have been a bit of a laugh. Could of sourced some old Moody Blues, Pink Floyd or whatever :)

I wouldn't get too excited. they have been 40% off for months. The one I got (same listing) requires an external ignitor, which was discussed on page 2

I'm sure I saw an snapped axle remover tool at the last Tupperware party I went to. Oh hang on, was it a Tupperware or a F..........

Ha!. As I was reading through I'm thinking, "Geez, i wonder if he could photocopy one for me?" You have PM!

Earlier this year, I was sorely tempted to bid on a brand new cartridge player on Yahoo that was an option on the KE/TE2x range. I think I missed the close for some reason, and didn't get it.

Yes we do! If you have a T AE86 disc rear, you can swap the large/small centres without problem, as long as you have the matching axles. I found this out when I brought a spare axle back from England in my backpack - seriously. But bear in mind the disc rear axles have a wider bearing which presumably will not locate within a drum housing? Possibly you could fit a drum bearing to a disc axle?? But I don't know that for fact.

I have a complete set of the original incarnation of this magazine. Every month I would be hanging out for the next edition. Published in the UK, but they got away from the usual thing of featuring nothing but UK vehicles. Only so many Triumph's and MG's you can look at. Loved it. Then it fell over in some mystery dispute between the editorial team and the publishers. The new version retained some of the editorial team and has a new publisher. It has gone a bit to far towards a fast fours style of mag for my liking, and I no longer buy it.

Well you could have a look at this for some ideas. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?showtopic=11909 Plus I think there is KE55 somewhere in the rides thread with a Beams engine.

Now this is the style of government we need in Australia! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAaWvVFERVA...eos=eZJB4sByA2I

Oh, blow it out your ass Howard! :blinks: Someone needs to protect us god fearing folk from you evil Adelaidians.

http://www.rmcarburetors.net/index.htm This is Rodger's site.

Just making sure you understand that the gearbox behind the 4AGE in AE86 GTS you have access to whilst also called a T50. will not mate to the 2TC. There are a number of differences between an early 2T/3T type T50 and a 4AGE T50. This means, you will need to source an early type T50 for your manual conversion. You really need to find a donor car in your local wrecking yard.

I wouldn't bother with a w series box. If you run the 2TC you have, which can put out good power, go 3TC or even 4AGE, the T50 will handle it. As long as you don't abuse it. The W boxes add a significant amount of weight probably unnecessarily, in what is a light car. Not sure what ran w boxes in the states, probably 21R/22R engined celica's. You will need to search around on 3TC for that. USDM Toyota's tend to vary significantly specs wise compared to ADM. i.e. we never got T engined Corolla's here till the TE72, or 4AGE powered rear wheel drive Corolla's either. You would also need to consider conversion issues. Depending on which engine you use (T series vs A series) and which version of a W gearbox you use. There are variations between steel and alloy case, and also bellhousing bolt patterns. That is the limit of my understanding, but all the info is out there if you search around. Essentially you need to fix on which engine you are going to use and go from there. A little while back I sourced and sent over a bellhousing to one of the 3TCgarage guys in Canada. It can get that complicated.

If you can obtain a cheap AE86 parts car - buy it. Yes you can use the front struts, with some modifications, and the rear axle, also with some modifications. The front and rear discs can be used without drama then too. Keep the brake proportioning valve. The gearbox will be a later T50 (different to the early T50 in the car), not a W50. There are plenty of people that have installed the AE86 running gear in this platform. If you plan to do this, keep all the wiring and transfer it across. Along with every single sensor and so on. Having said that, a more popular approach in the US is to go with a 3TC. Anything you don't want you will have no trouble selling off. Have a look at 3TCgarage.com

My dizzy is sitting in a box with all my other new bits for the KE15. It looks very shiny. So no update sorry. Waiting on finishing my AE86 (soon) so I can move it out of the shed and bring the KE15 in. My intention is to connect it up the same as outlined in a thread on Toymods where the guy has given a detailed description of retrofitting 21R/22R celica components into 2T, 2TG etc denso dizzies. http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=25842 The starlet electronic dizzy I got is from about the same generation as the 21R/22R Celica's, so I am confident the external ignitor of these will suit. The dizzy is so cheap and fully overhauled, I reckon it is worth it. After years of hassles with points, I have no intention of ever running them again!

Changing a head gasket really isn't a hard job, as long as you have a few tools, a manual (likely to find one at the library), and can handle having the car off the road for the few days it will no doubt take you. Buy a VRS gasket set from your local car parts place or cheaper on UK ebay if you can wait a week, have the head crack tested and skimmed, borrow a torque wrench from somewhere (even if you have to buy one you will still come out way ahead) and have a go. Follow the manual to the letter. If it was me, I would be changing the timing belt too. The hardest part of the whole job will likely be getting the bolt off the bottom pulley. At the end of it, you will have a good reliable car again that will probably last another 150,000km. Plus the satisfaction of knowing you did it. If it doesn't work, it won't have cost you much at all.

I'll be in Berlin soon Dave. That's sort of near Norway. I'll bring them back in my luggage for you. Eiriksmil probably wants your front end stuff.

Was waiting for it! ;)

Your latest project Eiriksmil? ;)

Yes the vented calipers bolt straight on. Make sure they have the casting 2022 on them. Bear in mind you need to factor in the cost of a rebuild. Genuine rebuild kits run at about $80 for a pair. Just buy your rotors here from RDA As for where to buy them? On the various forums at a premium. US ebay or yahoo japan cheaply, but need to factor in the brokerage charges if using yahoo plus postage obviously. Postage for a pair of calipers from the US should be $USD45 if the seller uses a fixed price USPS box, but be very careful and confirm postage first.

Don't know the answer to your question, but if you have excessive movement when wobbling the seat and the seat frame seems OK, check the rear outside seat mount bracket that is welded to the floor closely. It is common for these to crack around the nut that you bolt the seat into. Bear in mind you need to take the seat out to see this, and even then, may need to look very carefully.