parrot

As good as the internet is, sometimes you just have to put your hand in your pocket and pay for something.

Sorry Nadeem I can't help you with that one.

Well Tor, this will crack you up. All KE1x's have the same cable setup. Left and right hand cables are identical (same part number). 46420-12011 BUT, there is also a different part number for Arctic climes, which I presume includes you! 46420-12030 I have no idea what the difference is, and the diagram doesn't illustrate it. Cheers and good luck. I would be stunned if you can get one through Toyota. By the way, are you interested in an all red KE17 tail light lens?

Make sure it is a T50 for an A series engine, not a T series engine. You will pay a premium for a T50 with the clutch slave on the drivers side of the bellhousing (commonly referred to as a JDM box) whereas the 'ADM' box has it on the passenger side near the exhaust. There are ways to manage that though. I imagine it will be tight enough on the passenger side getting your exhaust past the steering linkages/draglink.

White Sandshoe for PM!

Last nights little shopping trip..... Now if only I could find the lens for the right hand side......

Yes well. I think we all know the answer to that. If anyone one was going to get it right it would have been the UK government. Classic car movement is pretty strong over there. And they got a crap scheme. Why they can't just make the cars non repairable write offs, then channel them through wrecking yards where they will eventually end up scrapped is beyond me.

Ha! Try finding new parts for a car that is 41 years old! Oh, hang on, I just did, 1 minute ago!! Seriously though, I swear by importmonster and am a regular buyer through them. Service is fantastic and they provide an easily searchable yahoo listing. I can bid in realtime just like on ebay, find items I would never find anywhere else, and know it will arrive safely either by EMS or container. Yes it is more expensive, but I don't mind paying for the service and peace of mind. My understanding is that to join yahoo auctions, you need to have an address and bank account in Japan.

Absolutely agree with comments above that the T50 will be fine for your car, and use a T series rear diff out of a TA22/RA28/T18 or along those lines. Sounds like you will have the ability to change it to leaf spring easily enough and narrow it depending on which diff you get. 7 rib 4AGE in either bigport or smallport is a good choice too, rather than a 3 rib. The great benefit of this car is that it is light. Don't weigh it down unnecessarily.

Wow that really is a clean looking machine. Imagine the necks snapping around if you and dfunkt were out on the road together.

Bamboo has kindly passed on the info. Shall pop by and leave a note this weekend. I reckon they would look great on the KE15, period and all. Prefer not to head down the minilite route, nice as they are.

To keep myself amused on the morning commute this week I have been reading the Tosco engine manual. I didn't realise that they only used a fancy bellhousing when uprighting the engine if they used a K50. The K40 only needed a new gearbox crossmember mount along with the revised engine mounts. If he is running a K40, perhaps this is why.

What the hell. Log in and I have about 50 PM's. Well two anyway. Bamboo, expect a call!! Thanks guys!

Great stuff! Shall be watching with interest.

Why are you changing the injectors anyway? If you are using a stock ECU, you are making a big mistake. Far better to use the stock injectors unless you are going to a programmable ECU

As said, you absolutely HAVE to buy a manual. They are on ebay all the time and cheap. Genuine Toyota are best but I'm sure a Gregory's will do you fine. Once you see how easy it is, you will never look back. And it's fun!

Sorry, but I have to say it. If your mechanic can't work this out with the car in front of him, he isn't much of a mechanic. It's all pretty basic stuff on a simple engine. If he can't do anything without a diagnostic port, time to go elsewhere.

Try this guy in Ringwood. http://www.autorubbers.com.au/ Very helpful, and comprehensive range. Don't rely on the website, go and see him, preferably with samples if you have them.

That's to collect the drool.....

You have made me a very happy man! Can't believe you could get so close to them! Have seen these cars before of course, but you have got some fantastic closeups and great angles. God I have to get there! Nice one Dave!! edit: Yes I know I am being greedy, but any more shots of the KE15?

It isn't a matter of resetting the TPS, rather setting it up appropriately. The ECU can only control fuel from the input it gets from sensors. You will see the manual details how to adjust it correctly with a feeler gauge and multimeter. It's easy to do, and once it is right, it's right. Then at least you can eliminate that as a cause. My only other thought is a massive vacuum leak somewhere. You have the vacuum tank for the TVIS all connected up properly?

Judging from those photos, I'd say $250

This type of question comes up time and again. Assuming you have wired it up correctly, and that is often the root of many problems, I would start by looking at your throttle position sensor. Make sure it is setup properly. Also, go here and download the 4AGE diagnostics manual, and work through it appropriately. ECU and sensors rarely fail, usually they are either not wired up correctly, or setup correctly where this applies.

I'd like to see the photo of the girlfriend who can pickup and throw the wheel! All my 'girlfriend' (wife) can do is pickup the mobile to call me.

I suspect there is going to be a serious paper rock scissors tournament between you two to see who drives it first :)