SLO-030

Hi Dave, I'm doing this because as it is there are two spare spots on my stock placard. As SA regs go i can only increase my rolling diameter by 15mm. So i figured, put in the details i want so if a cop looks at the card. everthing will appear within limits. I know of a few guys doing this on late model commodores to be able to run 20's and stuff. CHEERS Ryan

Cheers Aaran. For those who are curious, Lowest legal height for all KE3x/55 is 335mm (front) and 320mm (rear). Measurements are taken from the top of the arch to the center of the hub. This info is only relavant in S.A.

OK, update. The "Final Ride Height" in the above pictures will not be the final ride height. After a visit to the local cop shop. I confirmed the lowest legal heights for the KE3x/55 series. After removing the diff and placing the 12 Slotters under the guards at lowest legal height I'm hooked. I'll run some 14" steelies for the time being and eventually get a full set of 12 slotters made fit right. Diff is apart and i'll be replacing the center bearings and wheel bearings. Along with getting the pinion, crown and spider gears professionally checked to make sure I'm not stuck on the side of the road with a fooked diff. Also getting a whole bunch of stuff sand blasted as we speak ready for paint or powdercoating.

VERY NICE. KE36/38's :jamie:

+1. Although Mines mildly modded and isnt really slow. I know the Astrons are getting slammed but we owned an 83 skidma with a 2.6 Astron/3spd auto. After 5yrs, 1 minor service, Boat towing, a few big circle work sessions and multiple outtings for bunny bashin/ shooting. It still ran as good as it ever did.

My exact thought when i read this thread yesterday. Remove Dizzy internals and shaft. Cut the top half of the dizzy off, flush with the securing plate/tab. Weld the bore where the dizzy shaft once resided. Machine or Grind/sand the protruding weld flush for a clean look. Personally i would run a balancer mounted trigger wheel and pick up as opposed to the nissan style cam belt cover CAS as IMO they look like SHIT

Lookin Great Troy. Were the pics taken down at the South Para Resivour?

Hey Guys and Girls, Chasing someone that could make me a tyre placard sticker to my specs. Is basically a stock one modified to suit my needs. Bellow is one i made in excel and dimensioned in paint so excuse the crudeness. Anyone that can help, please PM me. CHEERS Ryan

Pretty sure you have to bore the engine out a bit. But once bored out you can use the entire piston and rod combo.

again Pete, if you need a hand, let me know. :jamie:

Agreed,186 would be ideal for the fact it will rev a bit easier due to the shorter stroke. Sure, you loose 0.3L by goin the 186. But you saw how a 202 has enough torque to have fun in a one tonner. 186 would definatly have enough to have some decent fun in a rona. But if its there, doo it.

Chris, you can have my 38 exhaust system if you want. i think its just gonna get chucked out if noone wants it.

As I said to Pete yesterday, From looking at both the starfire and the 202 in my ute, the front two cylinders have been sliced off. Meaning the bellhousing face to engine mounts will be the same distance. The distance from the engine mounts to the front of the block is the only thing that changes. Bolt up a Blue VK series EFI manifold, extractors and a mild cam, should be plenty enjoyable.

Details Details :wink:

Bleed em again >| Took me a few goes in the 30 but in the end it all workd out :hmm:

Good to hear then. Makes for a good excuse for an engine upgrade :wink: . Curly, If you find another 36 bumper in good to overrated condition don't hesitate to let me know. CHEERS Ryan

Thats fair enough. Sometimes its like "Uleh, I need a sunroof yo, mi shiftaz hittin the roof bro"

PHUCK YEA. that is all :wink:

What is the thing with dildo gear knobs? Other than something useful on a lonley night by yourself and making it a PITA to shift.

Stoked ay. Looks good mate :wink:

If you want sleeper appeal, go for the stock metalic brown.

Final Ride Height, Bitumening up that shit. Random Pic

Yea, pretty easy. 8 M10 bolts, 5 hoses and 1 filler. Didnt have alot of crap on top to be honest. Just a shitload of spiders eggs. Pulled the inspection cover off the diff, everything seems to be in relativly good condition. Has a bit of backlash between the pinion and crownwheel but I'm not too fussed with it. Diff Ratio in this is a 4.11:1.

Does your gearbox X-member use 4 smaller (M10,12mm head)bolts or 2 large (M12,14mm head) bolts. If you have 4 smaller ones you have an auto X member in an originally Auto car. If you have the 2 larger bolts you have the Manual X member in an originally manual car. The AE71 X memeber will bolt up to the Manual X member mounting points. The auto X member is a fair bit further back than the manual member. AFAIK, Auto Chassis' don't have the manual mounting points and Visa Versa.

It may have been asked before but how does it handle with the mountain of motor up front? I've heard the 3x/55 series handle better with a little more weight up front. CHEERS Ryan