Raven

Yep, I do for the other rust dude. Above the r/h rear window will need to come back to bare metal Both A-pillars at the bottom are starting to bubble A slight dent just past the driver door by the sill panel Little dents on the bootlid Dents/rust on the cowling and bonnet.

Mohammed and Ahlal think thats fully sik habib!

I'm not painting underneath the car. :laff: He is blending the plate in with the rust hole under the battery tray and is also going to seal the radiator support panel as they are prone to rusting out. Still will end up bringing the car back to bare metal in places to sort out all the other rust issues with the car.

All Make Motor Repairs and Restorations 8 / 1387 Main North Road (Para Hills West) Adelaide SA 5096 Phone: 08 8281 4412 Fax: 08 8281 4412 Speak to Steve the owner. Awesome mechanic! :laff:

Web(n)ers don't have a solid fuel line. They use flexible fuel hose. :laff: I gotta learnt o type properly too hey. lol.

:laff:

Today I went and got the quote for the chassis repairs. He's actually going to plate and reinforced the rails for my engine swap later on and fix the huge rust hole under my battery tray. Total price for the job - $660.00 including a report. Also getting him to weld up the exhaust on the KE36 as well :laff:

Gearbox swaps would make them read differently perhaps? From what I've read, the extension housing has to come off on some gearboxes in order to change the speedo drive....

For the body rust I will. Looks like I may have to take it down to bare metal in some places and fix the rust properly.

I'll probably go and see John at SA Chassis & Suspension as he is Regency Approved for these type of repairs.

Interesting you say that because i have a KE3x lower control arm from the wrecker and the strut bolted straight to it. Research also shows that they use the same part number. Would it be possible to put the KE3x ball joint in the KE2x lower control arm?

I have a brake upgrade sitting here for my panel van. It consists of RA40 celica front struts with KE30 strut tops and pedders lowered springs. So I was wondering, since these struts bolt to the KE30 control arms and apparently the control arms are interchangable across KE2x and KE3x-55, could I bolt these struts onto my KE25 control arms and either leave the KE30 strut tops on or put the KE25 ones on and bolt them in without hassle?

No idea. I've had that myself. Feel free to add me to MSN and I'll post it up in here or email it to me.

Ok, out and about cruising down Anzac Highway last night and I am passed by a white AE71 (I think) with some nice dished rear wheels, white in colour with an AJPS sticker planted across the back window. I wonder if they're on the forum..... Anyone else seen 'em gettin about?

1. Fish oil is fish oil as far as I know. Never used the stuff though. 2. You'd want to knock out the rust and get it back to solid steel before you apply anything to it. It is just oil so it shouldn't eat anything away. 3. Someone else can answer that. 4. Refer to my second answer. 5. Refer to question 2 again. Gettin all the rusted metal out of the rust hole and back to solid steel and then apply some rust converter and then prime it and that should hold the rust off for a while until you get the funds to get some new metal welded into the hole. Hope that helps! Raven

Some more pics of it up on the ramp and under the bonnet.

So I put the KE25 up on car ramps today to have a look underneath and see what nastiness i could find, and I tell you what, I did find two spots of nastiness. This would happen to be the L/H Chassis Rail. Not good if I'm going to put a 4AGE in it let alone even think about a turbo conversion with that sitting there. I'll get it off to the chassis shop this week sometime if I can.

You need the sparkplug tube O-rings. Ask at a parts store for them.

King Spring Superlows is whatcha want if u wanna dump it in the weeds. I asked my suspension guy here about lowering blocks. His answer was that they're legal, only if the height of your spring doesnt go past the edge of your rim. e.g. if you get a flat tyre, its not going to sit on the spring instead of the rim. Other than that, its perfectly legal to have lowering blocks here in South Australia.

Ok. I checked out the flares today. They're obviously not TE27 replica's but they can be bolt-on or moulded to the body, depends what style you want. $295 for a set of four. They're about 40mm wide and can be trimmed to fit as well and would look pretty sweet. They also have a lip on the inside of the flare so it doesnt hack up your tyre. I also priced myself a set of 13x7 and 13x8 superlites with the charcoal centre. $1360 cash with tyres here at Tyrepower in Adelaide. So I'm really really contemplating getting the flares and the rims and lowering the car. :)

Yes yes, quite enjoyed that :)

Yep, Slapper bar for the extra load capacity on the springs when carrying weight in the back. Other than that, exactly the same. :)

Only way I can see it being done is I get a mate to make some or i can see if there is a universal flare kit at a place here in Adelaide. I'll let ya's know what I find out anyway.

Haha, yes, those were the days and I will have to say that it was fun. I hope dan's EA doesnt see the destruction mine did as I sold mine for parts in the end ;)

1988 EA Falcon LSD Burnout - No Sound