oh what a nissan feeling!

yep, what i should have said is triangulated top bars, not shorter top bars. the top picture looks pretty ghetto imo.

matt spry, pits on the goldy, the man knows his stuff.

here is the info, i don't think it will be ready in time for you but might be worth calling haltech to check. http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67292680-For-Dale-Haltech-Elite-ecu

Dyno last friday, unfinished due to a fuel supply issue. Didnt get to e85 tune, 98 only so far so we didnt get to put some real boost into it. 310hp@20psi and [email protected], happy with that, shows plenty of promise through the 4500 stally. Would have liked to get it finished but its run in now and going strong.

great to see this is still happening! For the ecu there is a new haltech on the way, it has a huge memory and capabilities compared to the platinum sport 1000 / 2000. Its not out yet and still under development ( currently fitted to lots of test vehicles) but apparently will cost similar money to the ps2000. If youre not in a hurry definately something to consider and sounds like its worth waiting for.

E85 is a pretty awesome race fuel, it has serious benefit on a serious turbo setup, or a very high comp na engine. On the other hand it's really good at cleaning, you tank, lines, etc, so there can be some real problems with changing over with an old system. The other problem is it hates sitting at all, weeks not months, and turns to a gunk and causes some real blockage problems. If your motor is na and not built with high comp E85 in mind I wouldn't bother.

I have an innovate but there is better stuff out there now. Check out the aem gauge. you can setup all sorts of stuff including air fuel safety ignition cut maps.

That's a shame I think maybe not really. I was pretty keen on seeing how the ghetto 4k thing turned out though. Would have been pretty impressive for the coin. 1J makes a heap more sense though. There is only so much a 1300cc can do in the long run.

Congrats mate is a well sorted car now, that is awesome, must be leaving that line good.

Yeh they can be helped for sure. Remove the rubber slippers from the diff mounts. get some alloy front shackle rubbers machined up, if thats not enough install a panhard.

lol, front wheels will be cheaper, less neg offset required. Cart springs are only good for drag racing though, no good for the corners!

Thanks! Yep the overflow was good value 50 delivered, to make my own the weld on cap was going to be 40 and only in alloy so more maintenance. I used the dis 4 again tas, nearly went to ls1 coils but the msd throws it out like lightening stuck with it, they come up 2nd hand on boost losing and eBay a bit. I got mine for 300 with the coils 2nd hand. Providing it survives the dyno I will be at the big power cruise so should be some fun to be had! No Rego yet either but won't be an issue will sort it straight after the tune then hit the local masters show.

got a new battery cos the other one was dead, intended for a harley its pretty small, 400cca deep cycle non-spill. Used the opportunity to add the main battery fuse inside the box, should have done it long ago. I read on the haltech forum that air intake sensor should not be mounted into any sort of heatsink, so i moved it to the intercooler pipe just before the plenum. I cut a bit of round bar and welded it to the pipe underneath, then drill + taped the thread. Worked out overrated. I started on the radiator overflow setup, I decided to thread the radiator overflow and taped a thread into a 6an fitting to screw onto it, I just didnt want to pull the radiator out to weld it on. I need to put the fitting on the lathe still to remove the outer thread. I have made the stainless overflow tank i bought fit the car too, i cut it down an inch or so, and shaped the bottom to suit the car, just waiting on a 6an weld fitting to finish, and i still need to make some mounts for it, i don't have much stainless laying around. This is how it will sit now, pretty out of view.

some speedflow, filter, extra fuel pump. hooked up innovate wideband to haltech. eflex hooked to return line, just brass fittings to step the return down to the smaller size. It now starts and runs good on the new haltech ecu, its now booked in for dyno tune on the 25th june, i leave for japan in 2 days, so this goes in 2 days after our return. I now have 2 bosch pumps under the car, with a speedflow mesh 10 micron filter after the pressure pumps to look after the id2000's. I also have a 40 micron mesh aeromotive filter before the lift pump/ surge tank. Fuel rail now returns to the surge tank. under the car beside the tank. in the boot surge tank I had to put in a different fuse holder for the fuel pumps, the previous one got hot and melted, connections must have been crap. Fuel pressure gauge finally arrived so fuel rail pressure is set spot on. This arrived today, radiator overflow, its about an inch too tall so will have to cut the bottom off and shorten it a tad. I have been working on this thing a fair bit, sorting out a heap of little things, getting all the gauges working, getting it running good, and going over any issues. I changed to rear wheels today to 17s hopefully they suit the dyno better.

thanks guys! The adaptor came from the usa but has since been discontinued. There is a guy on ebay who sells gearboxes with the adaptor so he must know where to find them, otherwise als race glides makes them as well in a super strong steel version. Updates!!!!!! Going to e85. bosch ID2000's installed. out with the old. in with the new, well getting there.......

that crown looks really really cool.

In my opinion behind the diff beside the spare wheel well is a better spot, it may require more effort looking for a surge tank but the result would be worth it.

keep at it mate, things are looking good.

Lol 12! I only ever broke 2 although i never put decent rubber under it.

turbos not too big, just too big for a manual gearbox is all. nice progress keep at it mate.

Lol yep thats my pic, thats my dining chair in the background! I will see if i can pull the sensor out of a spare tomorrow and trace the wires to the plug.

Hey mate, mine is exactly as your last photo, the round hole in that picture will be hand drilled to mark no 1. The cas you have is not what i was thinking, mine is as the following picture with all the terminals in a row. i have a spare plate here from an sr20 if its possible that it suits your cas and yours is not suitable, i can measure it tomorrow.

Hey sorry mate been long weekending. Sounds like an sr20 cas to me. So looking into the cas plug with the tails facing away from you and the clip on top. 1. Ground. 2. 12 volt power. 3. Trigger 360 degree position. 4. Is home reference four tooth. You will not use number 3, because on your 4 plus 1 config the two holes drilled will mark no1 as you said.

I have the sr20 pinout at home, wouldnt be surprised if its exactly the same they seem to never change anything.

The wolf can work off a 4+1 cas setup, the plus one marks no.1 so you can run sequential. With the factory ecu you would normally have a cam angle sensor and a crank angle sensor, so rather than run two signal wires with the wolf you use the crank angle sensor only and have an extra signal to mark no.1. With the sr20 cas i had to drill a hole in the cas plate to mark no 1. What cas do you have? Ls1 coils are the hotness atm, internal igniters and epic spark, i know of a 7 sec drag car running only ls1 coils for ignition.