oh what a nissan feeling!

cool, i like the one on my ke25 though cos its a bit more obscure, will try to get hold of the same one if i can.

cool, cheers i will hit that. That reminds me i need a toyoglide badge for the boot too.

yikes those rollers scare me. I have a self contained spray gun here you can borrow, it does a pretty good finish.

Hi, i need some bits to finish my ke30. Will pay for postage to get these items: 1. boot lock with key. 2. centre rearview mirror bolt cover. 3. Bolts for under wipers, the ones underneath the wipers with the half moon spacers as well. 4. Wiper motor wiring loom. The small wiring loom that goes from engine bay wiper motor/ washer bottle to inside car plug. ke30. 5. Auto pedal rubber in gc. 6. side mirror ke20/25. 7. toyoglide badge ke25/20 off bootlid. Also need these items locally: 1. glovebox lid ke30 2. glovebox inside ke30. 3. ke30 brake booster 4. chrome bonnet strip ke30 5. sun visors ke30. please pm, reply here, or phone matt 0413430550.

So i got impatient and decided to do some alloy welding on the car with the tig, it turned out ok, better than i expected really given i have been practising alloy for not very long. So new 30mm drop in the tank so lift pump never starves. Decided to lift the taxi bar on the roll cage to better suit a harness, has been tacked in for awhile, but did the finish weld today, tig is so much easier in this situation, no splutter to burn the interior. Also pulled out the old seats today, have velos but still need trim and mod plate, so will use these for now with a bit of paint. I cut 20mm out of that alloy sump so it doesnt hang so low, started welding it together and the gas bottle ran out!! have only had it for 2 weeks definately a problem there. Took me long enough to work out what was going on. On another note, bought some of those yellow jacket coils for the missus r34 about 4 months ago, cos it was missing a bit. Last week it started to properly run like a wrx again, it turns out one coilpack has died already. Quality yellowjacket.

Rod caps have to go with the correct rod, pistons with new rings should go in the same hole, but don't have to as such. a crappy supercheap 'hone' on a drill is not a proper hone, not even close.

Doubt that very much, at best you will end up more confused. Take it in and get it measured.

cheers mate you have been very busy! gtir quads are not the easiest thing to convert to rwd, and don't bolt up to a normal sr20 head. No extra performance gained, extra throttle response, also quads prevent extra plenum volume from affecting throttle response. they are 45mm which will be great with the turbo, but ideally in non turbo form you would want 50mm to get the max out of a very worked 2 litre.

cool, looking good under there, just the wiring to go?

steam pipe for longevity. Longterm the stainless doesnt handle the constant temp change.

nah, looks like the car will be pretty much finished before it starts, just the way things are coming together.

thanks mate, nearly there!

and no, you cannot get it registered.

tailshaft loop. shims done, clearances all good. new fuel lines 1/2 inch aeroflow hardline black anodised. I had 10mm lines in there but the fittings i used to join to the speedflow sucked badly and would never have sealed, so since i had to change the fittings i went to the bigger line. The new fittings rocked up today too so i got to finish that off, much better fittings with the olive type joint. Also fitted a billet trans dipstick as well, had to shorten it though as it would have been out the bonnet! Tranny cooler lines done as well, had to hunt down an extra factory 90 degree fitting as things are pretty tight in the tunnel. radiator hoses on. rang around for a tailshaft, looks like $1200 will be spent, yikes! Not the cheapest quote i got, but this will get tranbrake so may as well do it once and right. consists of: 1350 unis billet output shaft 3.5" tube custom rear yoke. Had to go 3.5" tuba apparently due to 8000revs across the line. test for 3.5" in tunnel I have been practising tig alloy welding a fair bit, need to get some skill before i start on the fuel sytsem of the car, still a few weeks away yet. pics from today

wow man, no really that is a brilliant result, and 9 months is a short time to build such a car, you must have been putting some time in!

Flex test involves tieing down 3 corners of the car and jacking up the 4th corner to a predetermined level. The level is quite harsh and would likely require a cage, or some extra structure to get a corolla through. ncop is much more flexible in body mods than the previous rules. here you go, start reading. http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspx

cut off is 29th of april for a 6 point cage, 4 point is still legal. tubbing the front end (if allowed) would have to approved with the flex test, and so would the two door conversion, approx 2k for the test last time i heard.

I have had the fuel tank in for a fair while now, went up the beach, and did some solid hill climbs on under 1/4 tank of fuel. no surge issues, and no leaks either, so success. It sits really high in under the car, you pretty much need to get under the car to see it, so it should hold me up offroad anymore either. took some pics this arvo.

Big improvement mate, looks real tidy now. I really wish you would paint the roof tbh, but still a overrated wags.

thats one tough looking ke20, eta to first run down the strip?

well with the new ncop we have in qld, this conversion is legal. new category of weight 800kg - 1100kg is now vehicle weight x 2.75 for turbo cars. So if anyone is thinking about doing this, it is very possible.

A turbo could be slapped onto a stock 3t with a j pipe and do a reliable 200hp every day of the week with a good tune. As long as you are aware of the cost involved, $5500 is much cheaper than you could build that in aus, and even with the usa motor you would still need carbs/ extractors ect? I'm all for it, just don't expect a "30 / 70 cam", a set of extractors, and twin carbs to give good results, even if it does look/ sound really cool.

Without a turbo a 3tc is always going to be pushing crap uphill. It really would take some big $$$ to get any sort of worthwhile power out of one. With a turbo gains would be easy, and much cheaper.

My ke25 has no engine atm, used to have 5k. ke20 is heavier, over 800kg, so yes 12a rotor if thats what floats your boat.

I have missed a few updates here it would seem. bought a ktm 525 shim kit to do the cam shims, have done the inlet cam so far, Will still have to order the grooved type shim for half of them once i have the thickness right. welded a flat bit of ally to the cooler pipe and tapped some 1/8 npt thread in there for wastegate line, and spare hole. Made a fuel rail mount for top feed fuel rail to gtir quad throttles. finished the boot wiring to battery and pumps, pumps arent wired yet though cos not mounted, Made throttle cable mount out of stainless, works well. Mounted gearbox oil cooler under car, ends up 130mm off the road so maybe a bad idea. cooler is 400 x 250 so fair sized. painted some stuff, the clamps i had were only zinc so needed paint, and a few other things, tailshaft loop, fuel rail mount, ect. so i bought a little lathe, can swing a 15" wheel, but no larger. still need to clear a spot in the garage for it. put sr20de plate into cas and modded to work with ecu. shims arrived today. I have been putting some of the lines together, i bought the alloy shifter off ebay america, was quite surprised when it came, really good quality. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350666738346?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 final undercoat