oh what a nissan feeling!

have you talked to an engineer about the hilux rear drum, most wouldnt allow it. Hilux can easily be converted to ea falcon, or r31 rear disk.

The most popular is corona/ celica strut with pug rotors and hilux callipers, i guess it depends on your budget. Hopper stoppers make a kit using the falcon gear, lots of $$ though. I'm having the same problem with my very low budget ke25 build, trying to find a cheap option atm.

Rb25 gearbox gets very expensive as it requires adaptor plates ect, plus the $1300 buy in price. But is very strong. An rb20 gearbox is 50 mm shorter in the shifter position, and is internally the same as the sr20 box, the sr20 bellhousing also bolts straight on.

wow man, nice work, some extras on the diff i see, and a few neat bits in the engine bay as well. I wish i did that with my rad support actually, now its back together i notice that its not really hidden like i thought.

very cool, nice fab work

Scotts oke20 has hilux diff, without billet axles, it runs 7s. VL turbo's run 8's on borgwarner 78s. (r31 skyline diff). If you want a nine inch though you should do it, its your car.

' bend over and touch your toes!

Nice starting point there, the interior looks good.

I wish i remembered to mention it before you did the paint! thats a shame with the engineer, they usually couldnt care less about the rad support. Anything that will fit in the standard hole is going to be on the small side, but might still do the trick i guess.

yes. lots. a poorly designed engine, prone to bhg, mostly due to very thin head castings, and corrosion issues in the head also. 110hp factory spec from the 3 litre from memory, and almost zero torque. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/43849-matts-swb-pajero/

Yikes, they really are the worst part of any pajero/ triton/ challenger. The moo motor may have pushrods, but is reliable as can be, as opposed to the troublesome mitsubishi v6.

s13 radiator fits fine, as long as you don't mind cutting the radiator support panel to suit.

cheers! It wouldnt be too hard to get the acrylic in a similar shape to factory, any shape really, just get some 1mm thick acylic and put it in the oven. Never really thought of it.

I made some mounts for an extra swaybar i had here, its made by kmac and mounts to the control arm supports. the old brackets were pretty crap so i made these out of alloy and some rubber bits i had here. I put the badges and trims on the grill and guards, looks pretty good i say. Tailshaft loop arrived Made some new clear screen for the factory gauges, used some 3mm clear acylic i bought off ebay, the factory ones weren't real clear anymore. Mounted the electric heaters under the dash on each side for demister. and put the dash in finally. Surge tank arrived 5 litres, still waiting on tig to arrive to do some mods to it. Pulled sump pan off engine again, it hangs too low, so will do some mods to it to lift it up a bit.

yikes, thats a fair bit, whats it touching?

cool, 119 mph is some seriously good powers

legally? ever heard of something called "track width", look it up.

So got some stuff done, i ran out of reasons not to bolt the front together. The front bumper will cover the intercooler better so it should be pretty stealth. I still need to buff the front gaurd before i put the bumper on. I probably should get it rechromed first anyway, as the rear one has been done. Pulled out the nos stuff for the grill and shined it up, decided not to fit it yet though might wait till all the paint is buffed.

You will have to cut that section out of the sump to clear the steering, its not a big deal and definately beats making a custom draglink. I had to drop the crossmember to fit the motor in, but from memory i think the steering can be left bolted up, or mostly bolted up, once the motor is in everything will bolt back in place.

wow, this is going to be a quick build, paint looks great. So the motor/ box being built atm, or ready to go? Just remembered looking at your pics, should have flattened that circular lump behind the engine, it pushes the motor forward a fair bit, would have been worthwhile.

Great progress already, looking forward to seeing this come together. Your gearbox appears to be an earlier L series box with an sr20 bellhousing, not really capable of handling any decent power.

11.9 is a solid time. mph?

man that does look really cool, all very well thought out.

Well looks like the ke70 wins without a doubt. the ke30 does have few good points though. * lighter, a fair bit lighter actually, 200kgs at this weight means everything. * leaf suspension, a much prefered platform for drag racing. * classic looks. A ke70 looks cool for sure, but the 70's is where styling peaked, and not just in toyotas.

if you leave throttle closed results will be null and void. On sr20det 8.5, stock cr and stock cams i have generally seen about 155.