oh what a nissan feeling!

Water meth is a great thing, until you have a slight nozzle blockage, or any number of small problems the system could potentially have in a street car. but then you already know this as clearly you are the expert. let me know if you need a hand to pick up the stagea's engine off the ground.

awesome, looks the goods!

Nah mate I have had plenty of dealings with George. he has quite a reputation.

lol!!!!!!

Your tuner will be able to tune to prevent any detonation usually up to about 24-25psi on most alloy head engines with pump 98 fuel. Fuel becomes the restriction after that which is where your water meth, or tolulene, or e85 comes in. The new gtx28/63 is supposed to be an awesome turbo, probably the best of the whole gtx range, so if you do end up spending up or chasing larger powers check that out.

Tut tut, yeh no video taken yet, I'm in adelaide for a week and a half now so won't be back at it for a bit. Great way to start the holiday though! Turns out I have to mail that dead igniter back and then they will send a new one, so more delays.

8.5 is a very normal ratio, anything below that is kind of old school and more detrimental than beneficial. Why water/meth? Are you going to run over 25 psi? Water/meth is not really a reliable option, the problem is that if you tune to it on a petrol engine, when the nozzle gets blocked you have a lean situation = ping = boom. It is a great thing on diesels because without tuning to it you can still gain 40+ hp @ wheels.

So, start up time..... First challenge, stater motor wouldn't crank. Pulled it out and into pieces, not much wrong there. A bit confused for awhile. then tried to start it at night, I could see a spark jumping from the starter to the bellhousing. EARTH! I have about 10 earthing points on the engine but none on the starter itself. the paint was preventing it from getting properly to the starter. lesson learned. So next challenge. Cranking over good now, but not firing. so.. fuel or spark? I put the noid lights on each injector, they are firing, so cas is working fine as well. Spark issues. After much research it appears the ecu is unable to drive the msd dis 4, due to not being able to set a constant charge time. So... I ordered an igniter box from usa. Arrived this week. Today I wired in the igniter box, and we have some some sort of spark, but working against the engine. So I changed from the cas back to the dissy for its crank angle sensor, purely because I know where no1 is on the dissy, whereas the cas with the different disk in it is not as easy to tell. Still same problem, so I went through my wiring to check that I wired the 4 coils as a firing order, rather than 1-4. Problem found, problem easy solved. So about 11am it started for the first time!!!! ....but runs like a wrx, I'm short one cylinder. Went for a spin around the block, definitely short a cylinder. Pulled each injector plug, no1 makes no difference. Pulled plug on no1, no spark once again. worked though cutting wires and testing, not the coils, not the ecu, swapped 2 cylinders on the igniter and the problem swapped cylinders! Problem found. Wired in a spare single igniter and for the first time it runs on 4 cylinders! Gearbox was an unknown, bought at a swap meet as a stage 2 fresh gearbox, it seems to work good. Motor seems to function so far, even though I built it . So its been a successful day, real stoked. 4wd battery for hours of starting attempts. Temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge. Also, the complete fuel system. Also the new mtb.

Was watching this too mate and dreaming, you got an absolute bargain imo, can't wait to see what you put in it. remember too the qld rules have changed, this category is now weight x 2.75 for turbo so a fair bit more room for capacity.

offset pinion does not matter.

cheers mate. tailshaft arrived last week, chances of tailshaft breakage = nil.

Put this on the dyno this weekend, no reason just bored. top end has some sort of issue according to the graph, still sounded good though (moo), just the graph says there's an issue.

looking good mate.

Ncop is at the moment in a 6 month transition period in qld which ends on 30th april. any cars plated in this period have a prefix to the code to state this fact. Turbo v8s are not completely canned, but the weight bracket has been reduced so much that nothing fits into it, a vt ls1 cannot have a turbo anymore and they weigh 1700kg! my cage was approved with the car as just a shell, maybe see if you can get it done in the next few weeks.

Yes and no I thought the bad outweighed the good personally. no more 6 point cages, no more turbo v8s (pretty much). But on the other hand new 800kg to 1100kg weight to cc category and extensive underbody mods now able to be certified.

cheers, yeh it is pretty high spec it will handle well above my power level. because I will run a transbrake though it is required even at my power.

Great to see an update! The axles and drums will be no problem to be redrilled to 114.3, not too sure about the wheels. Ncop is officially in as of april 30th, it clearly states In there no 6 point cages, but also that even a 4 point cannot need a seating capacity change. Hope you have that sorted. good to see so much stuff has still been happening with this thing, looks like you're getting through the parts required list.

Just ordered the tailshaft through Altra 9, 1350 solid unis cro-moly shaft cro-moly billet slip yoke Custom billet rear flange for btr78. $1200 Lucky I found out Altra 9 do tailshafts, I attempted to use 'Brendale driveshaft services', absolutely useless.

Thanks trev and carlos. I now have the moneys saved for the tailshaft so will be able to start it soon. I spent the day working on this today due to the rain, I usually don't touch it on the weekends. hooked up charcoal canister, fuel reg boost line, wastegate boost line and bov line as well. Also bled the brakes. Initially the master was leaking from the bias side, I rebuilt the other side but the kit didn't come with the bias side. Fixed that with parts out of a spare one here. Then had a blocked bleed screw in the rear, pulled and cleaned that. Bled brakes up and things went well, lots and lots of pedal, they bled up really really well.

Got a bonnet release cable intended for an old valiant, was long enough to go hidden under the guard, also has a cool little round puller which is cool. Pulled the diff out to change pinion angle, was facing up a touch, cut a fair wedge out of the mount. painted under the floor and in the wheel arches with some flat black paint, no detail underneath, that would take me another five years... tank back in and bolted down. Finally tracked down some tiny parts I have been looking for a long time, to think these cars were everywhere 10 years ago. Wiper spacers, and wiper loom, loom now re-routed to be a bit less obvious. Boot lock used to be on the bootlid, I deleted that and had a pretty crap cable setup previously. Have now put the lock back in but on the car instead, inspired by my ke25. Painted new welds on the cage, used a brush, 2 pack flattens pretty good though. Seats in now too. So I had to make a brake reservoir for this. When I got the plenum made I had the commodore reservoir sitting on there but nothing bolted up properly. Once bolted up it hit on the strut tower by at least 10mm, so I tried the old corolla one and it hit the plenum by a good 20mm. Dumb mistake. So i sat on it for the past month deciding what to do, googled pbr master cyl and though maybe an r31 reserve may fit, but tracking one down without spending on something I'm not sure would fit proved difficult. So I found some motivation this week and made one. Base is 8mm plate, the rest is 2mm sheetmetal, it uses the factory commodore cap. lots of photos I know but this thing took me about 4 hrs. Cooler piping all hooked up and plenum on. In hindsight black silicone would have been nice, and silver fittings on the fuel rail too, but $$$ says not changing.

That looks insane, and great to see a turbo beams not really something ive seen much of. You did forget to add (in house) behind a few items though which I'm very disappointed with.

Cool, youre going all out with the auto thing, doing it once and properly. Really looking forward to your feedback on how it goes with the little 1.3 and auto, its definitely keeping me interested.

cool. looks like a great car as a starting point.

The earliest hilux diff is the shortest, rn40. Still a little bit longer than a ke30 diff though.

cool nice setup, awesome buld thread. bigger font next time so i don't have to squint? Pinion angle doesnt look that bad, just the photo i would think, its meant to sit down a bit.