oh what a nissan feeling!

you can just get it drilled to 4 stud, $80 per side from memory, easier than the whole swap over thing? what gear are you topping out in 3rd?

it is in effect, like i said transition period, this allows cars under the old rules to get approved even though the new rules apply. sorry i was a day out 30th april. http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/Safety/Vehicle-standards-and-modifications/Vehicle-modifications/Light-vehicle-modifications.aspx

There are plenty of videos on youtube for this. You need to do 1/4 turn as you put the housing on, make sure the 3 linkages are lined up in the neutral position. Pretty easy to do usually.

ke25 is listed at 730 kg from memory, probably not relevent though as you still get a 1.8 turbo or 2.0na. Yes your calcs are correct, and ncop will be in qld on 29th of april, we are now in a 6 month transition period. this category did not change between new and old rules anyway. Add retractable seatbelts, diff upgrade to your list depending on engineer.

I have a # 7 to add. "the poor man pays twice". do it properly and you will only do it once.

For another idea of price, the local guy i used to use charged $50 per code. The guy i used recently is mobile $200 for the call out and first code, and then $50 for each code after that. My brother used another guy, he supervised the build, and came to his place approx 4 times, full written report and cert. $600 it is pretty inexpensive really.

yeh i agree those loopholes do exist, you are allowed a % increase in the same series of engine, ect. I haven't read all the new rules that came in this year but you used to be able to upgrade say from 6cyl in hq holden to the v8 providing all the v8 brakes ect were used, without mod plate. Just get it engineered for the engine anyways, then you know its all good. What admyo said is good advice, often if they spot one sub-standard bit of work and they look very hard after that. Also the presentation of the vehicle overall as well. If it presents like a junk box they know the cops will be all over it when it hits the road. I doubt you will have any dramas at all, if that rear crossmember is factory thats all the engineer needs to hear. For you fuel system, some engineers will not allow a surge tank in the boot, some do.

pinion should point down 5 degrees, but that is for traction purposes. A tailshaft will wobble the most if it is lined up perfectly, you need a little bit of offset in any direction for it work properly. Having said that, as altezza said, its unlikely that is the problem. check your uni joints, if there is ten thousands of a mm free play in any of them they need to be changed.

Nice work, the next level indeed! What auto did you end up going?

sounds about right. The general sizing of a t3/t4 is approximately gt35/40. So either up the boost significanty to make the lag worthwhile, or down grade to factory s15 turbo for cheap, or gtrs with .63 rear for more $$$.

did someone say the r31 has the same diff as a ke corolla? lol. surely i read that wrong. vl turbo diff is the same as an r31, bw78. the 4.1 ratio that is found in the pintara's for these diffs are known to be noisy, none of the other ratios are have any problems. If the car is turbo you wont want 4.1's anyway, also if the car is turbo and 3rz you wont get it registered legally.

^^^ what he said, pull the plate off the bottom and check no teeth are missing on the gears, check wear on syncro's ect. you would have to pull off the extension housing to check 5th and reverse though.

man that white one is so tidy definately worth the drive. Not sure about the trimatic idea, i put one in my ke25 with a 5k and i really regretted it in the end, having been there i think the 5 speed is a much better option.

The sander just doesnt provide the flat surface that you would think, try gently and precisely running a hand file over the surface and afterward look at what the file has actually touched, usually with the sander the surface will taper off toward the edges. It might be ok, but generally i've found its not real good.

be real careful about that pickup surface, its not something i would use a sander machine on. love your work all the same thinga are going well.

those longchamps look nuts on your car! so much nice wheels right there.

^^^^ well said. I have used aftermarket panels and that is exactly my experience, they rarely fit great to start with, but can be made to fit to an acceptable level.

any more updates mate?

looks like a good start for a solid 4wd. a pair of lockers and it will go places, already having a vg30 under the bonnet would be a very tempting thing i recon.

pic

So i decided to make a fuel tank after putting a hole in the factory one, the factory one hangs stupidly low, so a good time to fix that as well. I cut the pump flange, gauge flange, and filler pipe from the old tank. And made another tank out of 2mm sheet zinc. It holds about 68 litres, which is much better than the 40 i was putting in the old one by the end. I mig welded it mostly from the inside, put full height baffles in, and a surge tank. Then new tig arrived, and i went over the seams on the outside with the tig, was quick and good practise anyways. painted in 2 pack etch. I have ordered some kbs fuel tank liner for it, so will fit it once that is here. then beach trip!!

Hi mate, 100mm between radiator and front of harmonic balancer, and radiator is 70mm, so 170mm from back of rad support to balancer. I will include a pic for you in my next update.

hey great progress, things are happening quickly.

bridge is clearly wrong if the corona was the same, from other weights i have seen i doubt it could be that heavy.

Drums lock up much easier than disk, that is the one and only reason, size is not relevent.