oh what a nissan feeling!

Awesome car man, looks like your doing a real good job with it too. Nice choice on the diff, you wont break it. Will be following your progress for sure!

thanks man, youve done a damn tidy job yourself. that zoom mag is a keeper.

There was a little honda convertable at the last powercruise i went to with a zx12 motor fitted. The sound of that thing in a car is like nothing else, and the conversion was so neat, go it i recon :yes:

My bro is a 2jz nut, he can name heaps of examples off his supra/aristo forums, all with stock autos. :yes:

Thanks guys! The ke30 is moving pretty slow as its been raining for two weeks straight now, so i am reluctant to do anything with so much moisture in the air. :yes: Heres a couple more of the 25 anyway :y:

A C4 is very strong from factory, and to run your future 300kw@wheels from a 1600 (little torque), would require nothing but a shift kit. To run a transbrake as well on the other hand is considerable strain on the box and would require further upgrades. Sounds like youre in exactly the same spot as me, i am going to get mine going with the 5 speed, and after it breaks or scares me too much i am going the auto, it also helps to have a manual while getting it tuned. :yes:

For the auto option: The two options are a Ford C4 or a holden trimatic. These both use the minimal amount of power to run. The problem is that these are both 3spds and have a final drive of 1:1. The 4spd option is a jatco box, it comes out in commo, but drains a heap of power. The other possibilities are the autos that come out behind the 2jz supra, these are known to handle a fair bit of power, have 4 gears, but once again suck a whole lot of grunt, on the bright side you can get a good one for $100. Personally i am going the C4 in the future, very strong box from the factory, and can be reliably built to handle a transbrake. I think the auto vs manual thing is something only you can decide, what is your intentions with the vehicle.

I have seen this before if prepsol is not washed off correctly. Something you may not realise about 2pak vs acrylic, with 2pac you will rarely get any reactions off the gun, they will appear within the next 6months to 1yr. After a year you are generally safe. Acrylic will usually show during painting.

Always Happy to answer any questions you may have in the future. I went fixed back for the lower seating position as well as the andra requirements i may have to adhere to in the future, not sure if they will become uncomfortable on a long drive, i guess i will get to find out soon enough. :y: Thanks heaps! The 25 turned heads like i couldnt believe, may not be seeing it around for awhile though, it has been demoted from its daily driver position and is now stored tightly in my back shed. Not sure what i am going to do with it yet.................. :yes: This is it atm. And this is it up at kings beach at caloundra, not long before then.

.......sorry just been busy trying to make a beer holder :dance: thanks man, i can't wait to drive in them, it should feel pretty racey :bash: Thanks, the radiator is sorted, but that is still really good to know, for possible distant future ke25 love. I have the gtir lifters and cams, i just want bigger!, so its all good :y:

I actually did this when i put the 3t celica motor in my car, i went in and showed them the engine number, played dumb, and because it was going from 3k to 3t they decided it must be a sports model or something, and put it through :y:

Well thats good to know, they seem pretty comfy on the lounge room floor, now all i need is a steering wheel...........and a ps2.................

Yep, gotta love that bonus! I got a remote control v8 supercar, and i think the novelty has already worn off. A velo will keep on giving.

Yeh, i was chasing velos for a while, theyre not that common second hand. I ended up paying $400 for these, seemed like an ok price, even if theyre a few models old. Anyways, these are some of my bits for my plan of 300rwkw. I will probably start assembly of the bottom end soon. Thing is still need for my motor build: Injectors 800cc Solid Camshafts 272 duration, 12.5 lift Custom exhaust manifold (soon) ATI balancer (ouch pricy) Maybe 1mm oversized valves (still deciding) Torque plate bore, crank linish, line bore.

^^^^^^^Thanks man, hopefully it turn out even better. I purchased some seats for the old machine the other day, previously ive been using some ta22 seats, cos they give my head about a foot of roof clearance (even though I'm 6ft 5) I never got the old 22 seats recovered though cos they lack support, particularly in the sideways area. so until now ive just had white throw overs.

I got 78%, :) i hope it wasnt the electrical questions i got wrong, cos I'm a sparky :lolcry:

Nice find mate! Hey, with all you guys living so close to willowbank raceway, I'm surprised i don't see more rollas when i go down there!

I really don't think it is worth buying a worked a 4k for a ke55, i could understand a ke2x or 1x, because of their weight, i don't think it would be worth it in a ke55, it would run worse, and you would still be pushing shit uphill with a stick. Maybe bide your time until what you want is allowed, or go the 5k. Or turn the car to project status (providing you have a few skills), and but another runabout?

I hate to criticize, but i second that!

No worries, will do. :lolcry:

lookin Very nice. Its your own car, how about lots of pics??? .....and in the light please........

man that is awesome! Any under bonnet pics? I gotta see where the grunt lives!

Yep, that it, the block goes to the bin. I'm pretty sure youre talking about the thread for the tower brace. this is where you mount a bracket to prevent firewall flex. The two in the photo underneath at the front are front left and right. For the spacer, put a small screwdriver down the hole where the master cylinder would push, measure this to the face of the cylinder. Do the same to the ke55 cylinder, and you will find the vn master cylinder is lightly deeper. To correct this depth i drilled the end of a bolt, to creat a dip for the shaft to sit in, and then cut the end off the bolt to the length needed. I then used a strong glue to glue this small piece down in the hole. This is needed to get a good pedal feel, the brakes would still be ok without it, but not the best. hope this helps My explanation probably sux, i can probably do pics if this can't be understood?

The two side by side underneath at the front of the cylinder are the front wheels. The one on the right closer to the booster is the rears, it takes a bigger spanner as well. are you aware of the need for an extra small spacer inside of where the shaft from the booster fits in? The vn commo cylinder is about 4mm deeper (from memory) then the ke55 one.

Any more pics of that car? I never seen it before