oh what a nissan feeling!

well done mate, the last item on your list is the best one, get out there and enjoy it! Your instincts with the tuner are no doubt correct, and by the sound of it the $$$ charged was over the top, with 11.8 in the top end there wouldnt be much power to gain really, timing is where a tuner would hide power if he desired to do so. also quads and tps tuning is an absolute pita to tune, and never really gets as nice to drive as a normal map setup, mine has been a real pain and matty spy said as a joke " don't bring it back unless its got a single throttlebody on it." the drags will be a heap of fun mate, hope it goes well!

my bro will be there in his 550 3.0 diesel navara, he ran a 16.4 last week as a stocko, now has a 3" exhaust so re-test. can't bring my rolla the gearbox is no good.

I did change the springs over on it, it turned out the ones i had in it were a bit on the light side. When i put the motor together e85 was not yet available here, so i thought 24psi would be about the most it would see. I don't have anything to report yet though as I haven't had it back to the dyno, so still just have the boost cut at 26. I was really surprised too at what it read on the dyno, but the converter is a fair bit tighter than it was supposed to be so that would explain a bit it i think.

will be at the powercruise this sat and sunday.

love your work mate, any pics with the ke20 cowl vents? interested to see Because I recon they are pretty cool.

Powercruise prep time. Today i removed the valve body from the auto and disassembled and cleaned it. The problem i have is sometimes 1st and 2nd have no drive to them after a good thrashing, by that i mean that 1 and 2 do provide load to the engine but no drive, it just slowly stalls the engine. A mate of mine told me its likely pistons in the valve body getting stuck. So valvebody disassembled and cleaned, and will go back in tomorrow. I doubt this gearbox will survive powercruise, its not real happy with me. Afterward i will change the box out for the Als race glides one, need to get the stall sorted at the same time. Not sure if this is of interest to anyone here, here some info and screenshots from sorting the boost issue. DAY 1: this is how it is hooked up: To troubleshoot: I have changed the mac valve to another one, I also tested both on a battery to check they operate correctly, also pulled apart and cleaned both. I Tested voltage at the wires with the valve unplugged. I changed the dpo output on the ecu, and ran new wire from dpo17 as opposed to previously dpo2. boost map Logs DAY 2: Tested the mac valve for operation, it pulsed quite hard on 33hz and 50% , so it seemed like all is well. I changed the table to have zero's on it, so the valve will no longer pulse constantly, So I went for drive and logged the with the boost table unchanged. then added 10% to the table to see what changed. boost control log increased as it should, boost didnt change. After hearing the mac valve and doing those logs it seems the issue has to be mechanical. Going to jack the car up and recheck the dash 4 lines, i will pull them down this time and check for burns and blockages ect. If nothing there I will pull the top off the wastegate. DAY 3: Found a boost control pipe that was leaking, so I replaced that today. At first it seemed like nothing had changed, then I added 20% then another 20% to the duty, It ended up around 22psi, so working! Logs from today, 3 boost settings on there, I had it activating at 6k rpm, then changed it to 4k. DAY 4: I set the whole table to 40 to see how the boost control is at a base, it sits pretty flat but has a spike at the end that needs to be taken care of. That will happen next week with a bit more testing needed.

King race series, or acl race series are the usual choice my friend.

yeh the moo's are super reliable and would go well, the holden v8 would be outside the rules. long term a 1jz plan makes a lot of sense, and potentially a lot of power. I would leave the moo for a while and refuse to open the bonnet.

the t700 gearboxes are big, def some tunnel mods i guess it depends on how well it was done. looks real nice in the photos thats for sure.

moo. do it, my opinion is bias i love those sillycars.

excellent and congrats! must feel pretty good to cruise around under its own steam.

yep you're right, the boost control issue finally motivated me to learn my way around the ecu for which I'm happy. just need to find some time to remove the spike in the boost map.

I have been driving the car a heap since its been working again, but has had boost control issues since being back on the road again, was sitting on wastegate pressure 15 psi. I found a split in a boost control pipe and that was the issue, however that put the boost map out, so have been doing a fair bit of logging to get the map right again. I will post up some screenshots soon. off to the goldcoast now.

old cams out new cams in degreed the intake camshafts for difference, there is a very slight difference in duration between the vvt cam and the s13 cam. As we all know though very slight is heaps in a cam. info is in thousandths of inch, dial gauge was direct on the camshaft. lots of stuff painted, new tappet cover with lumps removed, plenum painted up again, also painted intake and intercooler piping. I prefer the pipes polished but that never seems to happen properly so paint is low maintenance, and looks better than badly polished alloy. should be running again this week, trying to get hold of the injector cleaning guy, id2000 sitting for 3 months = pop.

A quick cut & paste update, plenty has happened over the last few months, a few dramas. have entered powercruise thats on in a few weeks. Fixed a few things this week. My intake plenum has started to crack, i figured not enough flex in the intercooler piping. So i bought and installed two of those bubble type joiners instead of the normal straight ones. Hopefully that buys me some time to sort out what I'm gonna do with intake side of things.' Also I have some drag radials here in a 225/50/15 BF goodridge. I bought them with a set of greg weld wheels, but the rear wheels don't clear the brakes. So today i got them put on a pair of rims that do fit on the car, doing the downshift qr thing so worth a try. I have been running 205/50/15 drag radials but they don't really hook up without rear passengers. According to the online drag calculator thing, with my 300kg or passengers i lose 10mph over the 1/4 mile, and .8 of a sec. It would be nice to know how it goes with me + traction. I have some sorting to do with the rear end thats for sure. Changed brake fluid today, last time at powercruise i boiled the fluid, the brakes on this work really well and i love to make use of that, i learned to go easier on them after the fluid boiled. So now changed over to penrite race fluid, likely an overkill, but peace of mind too. Slowly working on sorting the rearend of the car, i have another diff here to shorten, i have ordered a 31 spline truetrac centre last week, also bought a spare rear floor of the same vehicle to assist with a few minor changes to underneath. So this has been undergoing some maintenance over the last couple of months. As usual a quick few things has grown to a larger problem. 1. Gearbox valve body needs a clean out and new oil. On the last cruise 1st and 2nd became unavailable. 2. Plenum crack got worse, so weld that up, re-finish and repaint. 3. Change valve springs for heavier seat pressure, check shims. ****4. cams heavily worn, need replace................ plenum welded up and getting there. have not yet got to the gearbox. So cams, valve springs, shims. So cams have bad wear, when i built the engine i failed to put the new cam squirters onto the cam caps, instead i installed the ones that were from the head originally, these are partially blocked resulting in premature cam wear. me dumbass. So i fund some new cams off some bloke on gumtree, same same tomei 272 12.5 lift. 456$ later they arrive at my door, to my dismay the intake cam is for a vvt sr20, i was unaware 272 cams came in a vvt option, now i know. me dumbass. So now i have to degree the two intake cams to find the differences between the two... Next is valvesprings. This is the problem: 25 psi 387hp 26 psi 365hp Current springs in engine: NAPREC ------Setting load: 30kg-f or 66lbs (At 12mm lift: 82kg-f or 181 lbs) http://www.rhdjapan.com/naprec-strengthened-valve-springs-sr20de-t.html I suspect the valve springs are the reason the for the lean over. other options are the turbo is out of puff ( doubt it) or intake is choking. New springs are performance springs with these specs. 88Lbs installed and 187Lbs at 12.5mm lift. So i am theoretically increasing seat pressure by 22lbs. Yesterday i removed one of the narprec springs, i will measure installed height and take the two springs in to get measured at installed and 12.5 lift. will do this tuesday.

Excellent that you're finished! keep us updated with how it goes on the 35.

Excellent. Who is your tuna? What ecu are ya running?

It can be engineered. But the best source for info would be an engineer. So pick one and give them a call. Would need diff and brakes upgraded, probably other things but that is all to the engineers discretion.

looks awesome carlos, keep the updates coming!!

genuine gt bonnet is a rare item! $$$$$

very cool mate, my brother has a setup very close to that in a similar shaped mazda 929 sedan, the stally is a really good mod as it was a bit slow to come on boost even with 3.0.

Plenum volume can be between 1 and 2 x the engine capacity, 2 x usually used on engines producing well over 2 hp per cc. Hypertune plenum handy little chart, number 11 is what i was referring to.

passed you on the way to work on friday, so wide! some serious track.

And plenum a bit on the large side... trumpets should petrude less into the plenum, ideally they would have a bellmouth that sits against the entry wall. This car is cool, good to see the motivation and skills you have to keep developing it.

Not external leaks, internal! It would be extremely unlikely that is cam bearings, or even bottom end bearings, if it is either of these the engine would have to be so stuffed that you would hear other noises. it would be unlikely that the problem is directly related to how many ks the engine has on it. The oil pump does not need shims to the relief valve or anything similar as that would only be a band aid fix, and wouldnt work. 1. as above check the pressure release valve, and that it functions correctly, that it is still bolted together properly. 2. check the seal between the oil pickup and the block/ oil pump. 3. check the seal between the oil pump and the feed out to the engine. It is very likely one of these 3 items.