seabiscuit

Yea, not bad... Were 3 or 4 Rolla's there: Eze 10's KE20, Maroon KE10 fairly clean, clean KE30, and that nice KE35 that I saw at Phillip Head services. My fave car there was a Chrysler Centura! The burnout comp got cancelled because the wind picked up and got a complaint from a few whiners up in the hills getting burnout smoke on their properties. Can't believe ONE weekend of the year and they ruin a car show for probably 1500 people. Stupid old people.

Love these kinds of projects! They're real fun and quick to work on. I've had a few in my time such as the old whipper snipper powered bike, few pocket bikes and more recently a go kart, which is still in the build. Still have to find a suitable engine to put on it as it initially started as a classroom project at school and was meant to be a starter motor/battery powered machine! Looks good! Any recent pics of how it is now?

Wow.. remind you of something much?! Looks cool :lol:

It's in my daily.... The gaskets I got were only about 20mm wide before I grinded them up, so now that I have grinded them away there's about a 10mm width between the inside of the port to the outside edge. I recently saw Taz_Rx gasket he had on his 5kte and it covered the whole side of the block. Where can I get one of these bad boys? (SEE PIC BELOW) The ports have been opened up reasonably - I didn't do the job myself as I bought it like this. When I got it reco'd the guys from the Head Shop said that it was a really dodgy job as half of the valves had been nicked from the porting tool and it just generally looks rough. If I get another gasket and give it another go, I will take a photo and post it up. Just a quick note, got a 7K gasket (was told by exhaust shop dude atleast) to try and fit up, but the stud holes are all in the wrong spot, so don't try this if you port your head.

Wow.. What're your plans with it? Hopefully not showcar :S

Yes! There's also a fuse box next to the battery in the engine bay... This happened to me once. Blinkers worked, but hazards didn't in my case.

Snags, bread and onions sounds good! I'll bring some refreshments... The Rolla is polished and lookin' schmicko :y: Got my mate Patrick to come along in his TA22 Celica too.

Well, I've just fixed a problem in my car which has caused another problem (not as worse as previous problem, though). I have a ported head/manifold on my 5k and just had the head serviced, which included new exhaust gaskets! The gaskets were too small compared to the port jobs so I tried to grind them out to the size of the ports with a dremel which rooted them, causing an exhaust leak! Just after some tips on how to do it properly when I buy a new set of gaskets to try again!

Rallying is so much funner than drifting. Although I must admit, fully hektyk drifts are still fun to pull off - especially in a Rolla :y: Takes a lot more skill, balls and experience to rally than to drift. It shows because most rally drivers have been rallying for years and take a lot to get to the top, where drifting you see kids in their teens hitting up the top positions in Australia.

Well.. What seemed to work was hacking up my exhaust gaskets so they weren't too small (ported head) and also causing an exhaust leak because the gaskets aren't really doing their job properly anymore (fell apart because of the excess handling while grinding them out). Goes pretty fast now :y:

Well it sounds pretty worked as is. You can do some headwork. ie bigger valves, port/polish, valve springs etc. Not really much else you can do to the bottom end apart from perhaps a balance and/or lighten of components particularly flywheel - you can probably buy racing flywheel's for these but wouldn't be too cheap. Lets see.. Exhaust. That's all I can think of. To get your head fairly tripped out you'd be looking at $600 to <$1000. Not sure on the price of a balanced bottom end, but wouldn't be too cheap as you'd have to pay to get it rebuilt also, unless you want to do it yourself. Flywheel (if you take it off yourself) I'm guessing <$150 to get balanced and lightened. Exhaust around $350-$450 (+$200 if you haven't got extractors).

Apart from the regular safety warning gear and EFI, race cars shouldn't have any other computers running (except for F1 cars)! Although, I wouldn't want to lose control on one of them cliffs :(

Haha. That looks nice as!

Checked the gap... Is 0.8 too wide for a 5k?

I haven't... The previous owner would have probably had the carby jetted. It's probably moderately to highly untuned now since I've owned it. I don't see how the carby could cause a misfire, though... Especially if I leave it at the same amount of throttle and wait for the rev's to rise. By all means correct me if I am wrong! What is there to tune apart from air/fuel mixture and idle screw (not that idle screw is really "tuning") on a 32/36 DGV carb?

The revs go down due to the misfiring.. If it weren't misfiring, the revs shouldn't go down for any reason. If they were I would be worried that I'm not in Kansas anymore. I'm not saying that the revs would keep climbing, but they should max out and keep firing at a constant RPM! What are you trying to work out? :P It doesn't struggle to get to the revs, but when it gets to higher revs it misfires... That's all there is to it.

I'm sorry.. But I didn't understand that :( Carby fully cleaned and is now airing out. Might have some time tomorrow morning to slap it back together or tonight if I feel keen enough. 2'ish weeks flipping around with this car is getting on my nerves! :P

Did that $40 include lightening and balancing it? I've been thinking about doing mine when my gearbox goes kaput!

How long till you put your Jelly Beans on Tommo?! It's gonna look sweet!

What kind of choke is it? Manual, electric or water? Why can't you tune it without the choke hooked up? Keep the choke fully open (off) and let motor warm up, then tune it!

Swapped over the distributor cap to one I had on my 4k and problem is still there. I'll try and play around with the timing a little more (with a timing light this time) and see if I can't overcome the problem. As for the leads issue I swapped leads over to stock 4k items and problem was still there, checked the gap in the spark plugs, tried swapping coils, played a little with carby mixture screw etc. still doesn't like being rev'd! :bash: I'm in the process of fully rebuilding another 32/36 Weber to put on there just so I can rule it out. It couldn't be anything to do with the carby though, could it? If I leave it at a constant flow of petrol and wait for motor to rev up it still starts doing it (at same acceleration rate).

A trick that a bloke at the local wreckers taught me was to get a flathead screwdriver and try and get it next to the clip then twist/lever it off. This puts the pressure on the plastic clip, rather than the door trim. You'll need to get "in there" to see if you're getting the screwdriver next to the clip, though.

If you're talking about a KE35 or KE55 coupe, it will bolt in with a few modifications. It's been explained numerous times here! As far as I know you will need to: 1. Modify the sump to clear the crossmember. 2. Adapt a 3/4/5k flywheel to it so it will bolt up to the K clutch/gearbox 3. Something with engine mounts as block is 10mm wider If you've been offered a 7k motor, I'd take it. Has HEAPS of torque compared to other K motors, but doesn't like being rev'd due to its extra long stroke. It's main purpose was for vans and other heavy vehicles - towing power! If you want to know power figures just Wikipedia it. However, I would choose a 5K over a 7K. Can rev the crap out them and are a little more interchangeable with other K motors. No mods will need to be done to bolt in a 5K. Only downside is the lack of that extra torque. Still torquey enough to get you going in a small Corolla, though.

I think rallying would be more appropriate out at the cotter. It's so much fun :) I don't think many KE Corolla's could burn rubber for much longer than a few seconds anyway :bash:

From my experiences it sounds like carby. Not sure of what, though. You'll probably have to figure it out!