LukeAE71

Yeah, I wasn't having a go I can see how busy he is there :y:

Is the starter motor getting hot where you currently have it or actually ceasing to work due to the heat? Plenty of people have used the starter motor located under the headers for quite some time without any issue. This is the most common and easy way to do it when converting 20V to RWD. What type of headers are you using and are they quite close to the starter motor?? You may be able to use a different type of header/extractor which might be easier and cheaper than say modifying the bell housing. Do you have any pictures of your set-up?

Tidy up the fuel system, tidy up some wiring, make an exhaust for it. Really not much left but he is busy working on his Aristo to get it ready for drift weekend this weekend. I'm really over it at the moment, even thought of selling the damn thing :)

S13 front end in these chassis makes the steering very heavy, I should know I had one :)

lycra

:) that would defeat the purpose of it being a budget burnout car :)

Good to see you are getting some good progress now, will be keeping an eye on this one :)

that there is a sure fire bargain, will light the bags for longer and more reliable than a crusty old 308 :) :)

You got any pics of the car?? I am doing this conversion to mine at the moment, almost done and am interested in seeing others also :)

Good idea, if there isn't much to do the bill won't be too high. So what happened with this car did he get halfway through the project and give up or?? What other work is required to get it going?

Maybe turbo the engine that you currently have given that you sound like you are on a low budget. A low boost set up would probably work and not cost a massive amount ($1000 - $2000) - depends how much you do yourself. If that fails to whet your whistle then you are looking at an engine upgrade of some sorts. A 7AGE with 20V head and turbo sounds good to me. My mate and I were rambling over this on the weekend and we think that it would probably cost upwards of $3000 just to build a motor like this not including the turbo and engine install. Might also be time to buy a new car..... JZX100's are getting cheap now if you can handle an auto :)

The description of what you need done to it is a little vague, so my answer might be too. If the computer is not wired to the engine sensors, thermo fan, fuel pumps, etc or the power to the car you are probably looking at between $500 to $1000 for this to be done. I have recently had a 20V with Microtech wired into my car (AE71) and I was quoted between these ranges. In the end I managed to get it done for $500 and they have done an awesome job. If it is just a case of tapping it through the firewall and wiring it to the power for the car then you would be looking at less than the above obviously. Bear in mind though auto electricians probably charge around $100 an hour so you're probably still looking at around $300 to diagnose what is going on, fix it up and ensure everything is A ok. There would be plenty of places in your state that are capable of doing such a job. I would be enquiring with places to see who is familiar with installing the Wolf System. I only enquired at places who specialised in Microtech and also had some they could show me that were done. You do not want an engine bay that resembles a mess of wires and crap going everywhere. Oh yeah and if you have no idea how to do it then just send it somewhere to be fixed. Your ecu is worth over the $1000 mark you really don't want to blow it up because you do not know what you are doing.

A bit early to call true love after just a few days :fuzz: The car I hated the most was a Datsun Stanza I was given for free. I spent more time working on it than driving it. I fixed up a whole heap of stuff on it, bogged up the rust, gave it a paint brush paint treatment and ended up selling it for $200 to some wanker who wanted a daily boonger. I told him that the radiator had a small leak and you had to check the water (not coolant that was too exxy for this thing) occasionally or total destruction would be imminent. He did not heed this advice and he drove it to it's hot boilng death. Somehow he drove it so hard it eventually caught on fire (at least that's what he told me when he called asking for a refund of his $200 :) ). The best part about it was that he left it in a park somewhere and hadn't transferred the rego to his name. My brother spotted it there and let me know. We went up to get it and as I had a key for it still I started it (it still started) and drove it home to my brothers where he had (apparently) organised for it to be taken by a wrecker the next week. A few months later I got a letter from a council demanding I pay impound fees for the car as apparently it had been left outside someone's house a fair few suburbs away from my brothers house. My brother denied having anything to do with it. I signed a stat dec to say I had not left the car there and did not have to pay any tow or impound fees and I think the car was auctioned off. I saw the car driving down the road just the other day (some 2 years after the above bs happened) so someone obviously went to the effort of buying the car from auction and fixing it and regoing it again. Why oh why??? It had to be the same car, it had the same dog shit paint work that I did to it with rust in all the same spots and I am sure it was the same one. Sorry for the essay, got all worked up thinking of that piece of sh%t :)

nikki

I'm starting to think your idea of 3 weeks might actually happen. I still have not got the car back from Jay and it has been nearly 3 weeks. I'm a sad panda :)

I have observed the 'no thread bumping' in a classified section on another forum. All that happens there is the person waits until the topic reaches the next page (sometimes not even that long) and then creates another topic for the same item, putting them back at the top. All this does is create multiple topics for the same item, taking up more space on the forum. Sometimes you will see the same car/item for sale 3 times on the first page. The moderators on that forum obviously did it so they did not have to moderate the classifieds section as it goes largely unmoderated in that section. Turning off thread replies all together seems to be the best option, keeps the bullcrap posts out of people's sale threads. Again though I wonder whether people will just create another topic once it reaches the second page. Also, an individual item will fall to the third page (and beyond) quite quickly, and what would be the rules regarding timeframes to starting a new topic for the item. I know for sure that I rarely look past the first two pages for sale items. Maybe I am missing out on some good deals, maybe not :)

Well put, most things I hadn't thought of either. I guess upping the post count will just equal more spammy posts to get counts up which is more work. :)

Well you are past the point of no return now :y: Seriously this car delivers the ultimate win. Said it before and will say it again you really do have the taste for style man :)

Happy Birthday KE30 Rolla Myles Myles hope you had a great day mate :y:

Finally...... People you really have to keep in mind what power level will actually have your car remain driveable. Yes, 300 rwkw is great and you can tell all your mates about it but it will be an epic fail of a car to drive on the roads. I had a Sprinter with 180 rwkw and yeah it was great... in a straight line... if you took it for a drive through the hills or around any corner for that matter it was undriveable as you had to be so careful. IMO build a car with good power that you can actually use, it will be far more enjoyable than something that fries the tyres all day long. My mate has an SR in his KE70, he drove a stock 4AGE Bigport KE70 and he enjoyed the 4A one wayyyy more. Why, because he could actually DRIVE it :y:

yep, hot, just do it :) It actually looks like with the flares you 'could' go lower in the rear to bring them closer to the outer edge of the tyre but I seem to recall you saying you had issues even with the current height :y:

Agreed I think if the flares are body coloured they will look crap. Either a grey or matt black I think would be best. Gloss black flares look awful imo :y:

There has been a few nice KE10's and at least one KE20 for sale in SA recently that I can think of, CBF linking :y:

I don't want to whinge but it is a bit hard to see from those photos.... can you lighten them up a little in photoshop so we can see the detail etc. I think they will look hot but hard to give an opinion just on those photos. Why ask for everyone's opinion on here anyway, I have already told you your taste for style is awesome :) I think everyone else feels the same :y:

So what do you have in mind next?? There are a few nice old birds coming up for sale recently in SA :y: