altezzaclub

I've just pulled the 4.3 auto diff out and am fitting a 3.9, so I can't tell you if it is more fuel efficient at 100kph yet. With the K50 box it runs at 3500rpm around 100kph, which I though was too much. If you are not cruising at 100kph much, then the 4.3 from an auto is great. You are stuck with the K40/K50 ratios unless you go to a T, which is a lot of hassle for a very small improvement. The 5th down to 4th is handy on a hill, but only adds 300rpm odd at 3000. Then sadly if the hill is steep and you need 3rd you will suddenly go up 1000rpm, so it starts screaming... I haven't found a box with a higher 3rd or a lower 4th to spread those 3 gears. The mods we did have made The Girl's KE70 go up hills much much better than when we bought it. It is no 6500rpm screamer, but has good pulling power between 3000-4000rpm, which is where it is most useful. The 270deg cam is better than a 280deg for that. The next KE70 I get will have the crank lightened, be bored to 1500cc with 5K pistons and have the bottom end balanced. I'll either get inch and 1/2 SUs to try them, or bike quads. This one is great and I hope the 3.9diff will drop the revs at cruising without ruining the pulling power. Take a read through the build if you haven't http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Just take the whole housing off the block and clean it like mad. Hit it with carb cleaner then brake cleaner, stick wire in the holes and scrub it with a pot cleaner. Then wash it in a sink of soap and water and dry it in the sun. There is an oil filter pressure relief valve under the big nut that can come out and obviously take the oil filter off fiirst.

Where is that last rust-hole photo?? You need some welding in there in case you have the inevitable accident. The sway needs the castor rod mounts removed off the chassis, easy enough. Keep at it, the car will be great when you're finished!

lol! Let us assume the drilling to the oil pressure sensor is completely blocked off with shit, and although the pump can push the grotty black tar you have in there through the bearings, it cannot put pressure up a dead end! Poke a bit of wire up the sensor hole while the engine is running and look out for oil coming out!

It should do... 3 or 5psi oil?? Its very odd-

It worries me too. With a new sensor it should go out! and you know the wiring and the light works because it went out when you shorted the wire to earth. Can you get a third opinion from another sensor, it may be the one you bought is the wrong sort or is broken. Then fit a guage or have a garage fit one to check. It may be a problem quite unrelated to cleaning the engine, and the oil pump may be failing!

Aim to strip it down and have it checked over. Its much easier to put a cam in with the motor out and you'll need the head off for port-matching a carb/inlet system. First, gather the parts you want such as extractors and carbs, whichever sort you go for. I use twin SUs, others have twin DCOE Webers or a single DCOE, or quads off a bike, or the downdraught Weber 32/36. Take a look at the builds with each of those and buy whichever carb and inlet manifold first. You might be able to borrow a spare head to work on or even have it all built up and ready to swap with yours. While the motor is out clean out the rust from the water channels in the block if you're not having it honed or rebored. If you strip it completely and have it in an engineering shop they will acid dip the block to clean it all anyway. If you decide to rebore it, have it sonic tested and go for 1500cc using 5K flat-top pistons. Skm the head as needed to raise the compression, lighten the flywheel and get it all balanced, send the cam off to a cam grinder and then put it all back together again. read all this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ and have fun!

Should be fun! Go the 18RG! We're looking for another one, Steve should be driving one as a daily and we'll need a spare shell sooner or later.

15-20 thou. nothing startling and it doesn't seem to affect rocker geometry. I had combustion chamber volumes of 31ml stock & an area of 30sq cm. Its educational for you to work out yourself and compute how much to remove.

Stacks on here, it depends on- -what you want the car for?? Going to work only, blasting around the mountains, drifting at midnight... -what condition is the motor in now? Will it stand extra power and revs or is it worn out? -and how much you are willing to spend?? $2000? $3000? Work on rebore, bearings, balance, lightened flywheel, skimmed head, carbs, porting, cam, extectors, exhaust.. cam chain and tensioners too? a lot of money.

If you have a dwell meter it is more accurate than using feeler gauges. Once the points have a pit on one side and a lump on the other then feeler gauges measure it wrong every time. Even new it is easy to not get that gap perfect. 5deg is nothing! Do they respond well to more advance? 8-10deg on 95 octane??

Go for it Seb! Any ideas or info, give us a PM.

Nope! Never! Not a fan.. Why put a heavy big six into a car designed for light 4cyls over the front axle? Fit an 18RG for period class, or a 4AGE if torque is not required, or hunt down one of the turbo'd 4cyls. Can you get the 3SGE anywhere? If you're happy to cross-breed, get an S2000 Honda motor.

Plenty to read about- If I were you I'd start looking around for a rustfree car with a good body, the mechanicals are easier to fix. Might take you 6months to find one. I'm a great KE70 fan for their superior suspension but the two-door 55 series are the best looking.

Well, it looks a lot better than I was expecting from reading the description! There must have been a lot of work to get it looking like that, well done.

Yep! Turbo'd. Some guys have money AND dedication.. We, on the other hand... There are plans for a better engine than a completely stock 18RG. Its amazing how doing well increases the enthusiasm!

They're the 17mm ones, and the options are usually 19mm. I suppose they are a close fit as they hit the wheel on that flat washer instead of centering it with a tapered face I haven't worried about them as I was planning to use steelies, but with the number of classic mags at the wreckers I thought we might get some for the Celica rally car. That means reviving the wheel nut debate as we have two completely different sets of nuts on the car now! I put another 1800Km up over last weekend with the rally up at Walcha, and today the propshaft hit the engineers for a Celica flange to be fitted. The Celica diff is in place and I'll do a big writeup of how to fit an RA60 Jap banjo diff to your KE70 next week or so.

Wow that is nice! Left-hand drive.. where are you from?

Ah- they have posted final results that are different! He WAS quicker going downhill, and ends up 7th instead of 9th. In some good company too, Evos and rotaries..

What's the second choke setup? Still vacuum?? Any chance of the second throat opening before the intake velocity is built up enough to cover it? It sounds like a full carb strip into a thousand pieces and go over it with solvent and a compressor. The Celica was leaning out like that on the rally two weeks ago so I pulled the DCOEs off and did exactly that. Steve said it pulled like a schoolboy all night over this last weekend. Must have been some dirt in the drillways or something in the jets I couldn't see.

Well, that was fun! The night before we were fabricating a spotlight bar to mounts spots, and on the morning of the rally we were still welding sump guard mounts onto the crossmember. The rally was one main forest road from its start at Mt George up the mountain to the peak. With State forest land cutting it into three parts, they had a 25km stage, a little open section to an 8km stage, another gap and the final 8km to the top. Then when all the cars were up the top they turned around and ran the stages downhill! There was another road coming into the middle stage so that was a spectator spot, but after the last car ran down we all drove down the stage behind them. We caught up with the competitors as they were queued up to start the last stage then followed them down that 25km too! A magic, smooth tight highly cambered road that got very slippery for a muddy section towards the bottom. It all started about 6pm and finished about 11pm, so we were driving the 3hours back over the same sort of roads to Walcha at 2am!! He came 9th overall and won his class, but the funniest was listening to him complaining as we met him on the downhill stage start... "The first stage was too slippery, I couldn't get traction, everything was really slow and we're doing terribly..." Then after dropping the tyre pressures he was rapt with the blast downhill! Of course the results showed that he was slower coming down than going up!! Anyway, the car is fine & nothing fell off or broke, although a decision between a tree or a very large rock (neither of which were actually ON the road) resulted in a stiff strut on one side, so the Bilsteins are off to Sydney today to be checked out. Then its all go for Oberon in two weeks!! So long as we can find a ditch or a ramp somewhere....

Sno those springs are harder than that- we checked them today after last night's rally and they're about 120lb/in, compared to the stock Celica of 160. It all depends on how many free coils there are, which is hard to determine. That's a 4.8 Weir Performance CW/pinion in the stock T series with welded spider gears. Up next! Report on last night's rally after pub dinner!

You might have accidentally shorted something and popped a fuse, or a fusible link if the TE27 uses them. Have you got a wiring diagram?

This one- some GT Corolla hatch with a 4AC in. I didn't check the rate, but Steve said about 70lb/in.

Yeah, now people are talking $300-$400 I can see that! The Celica is a drop-in really, and they are more common in wreckers than AE86s or T18s. The only major jobs are to lengthen the panhard and solve the drive-shaft, the major advantages are banjo design for LSDs and bigger brakes. oh- and I hope they don't whine as easily!! ------------------------------------------------------------ To update- I had them shorten the driveshaft 8mm & weld the whole Celica flange & UJs onto the stock shaft. The d'shft is split with a 16mm spanner, one tiny part of a turn at a time.. Its still got a slight vibration in it at 50-60kph, so I'll get the balance checked at Retorque next time I'm in Tamworth. As I swap diffs between cars I've been taking the driveshaft apart and fitting the Celica-ended rear piece to different front pieces (auto & manual boxes) The vibration always follows the rear section. The last time I swapped halves I didn't pay enough attention and had the UJs slightly out of alignment and the center bearing in backwards. Although it looks symmetrical if you have it the wrong way around it moves the d'shaft joint to one side slightly. The vibration was so bad it threw half a litre of oil out past the rear seal over the 550Km. When I pulled the seal out I found it was almost new, which is what made me inspect the d'shaft more closely. A new seal and a bit of care has got it back to not leaking and a slight vibration.