altezzaclub

Wife had a Stagea for a few years as a company car. We owned a Cifero at the time, then the Altezza, anad she thought the Stagea was great. Roomy, more than enough modern geegaws, and it went fast enough. It had a button for 4WD. She likes big cars, hates the KE70, drives an R31 wagon at the moment.... Drive them both and check out the handling, one is a RWD with 4WD and one is a FWD with 4WD attached..

yep- But make sure you pull the pump apart and measure the wear gap at the end of the rotor arms, and check the base plate & housing for wear grooves. These will allow oil to sneak back around the pump rotor and reduce the pressure.

Sadly not so simple, that is the oil filter and the oil pump is in the sump. Right idea, wrong place. That will increase the pressure at which the oil bypasses a blocked filter, while you want the same sort of arrangement on the pump that raises the maximum pressure. Best to be done when you have the motor out and in bits for bearings or rings etc, its a shit getting the sump off without pulling the motor out.

Brilliant find! Amazing what the application of time and money can do! A translation would be great! He was obviously impressed with the difference. Did they change anything else apart from the body rigidity? I assume they didn't.

Armidale Rallysprint Feb 16th I believe..... :rolls:

Love it! True dedication!

Thankyou Gav, that explains it all. I was busy writing that reply! What sort of compression ratio would it give on a 3K?? Will the valves stick out??

nope- but maybe I can figure out if you even have a problem. Ok, got that- So that is the head for the 3K?? Why not?? That's the bit that is missing here. I don't see a problem- the head gasket for the 5K and the studs all fit don't they? The ports can easily be cut out to match the inlet manifold, that's what I did on my 4K to match the SUs inlet manifold. What is missing is your measurement of the head's combustion chamber volume. That will give you the compression ratio. Did you measure it with a pippette or burette? Is the combustion chamber 80mm across, or the valve to valve edge? So long as the valves fit down the bore OK then it should be fine. I don't know if they actually stick down into the bore or not, I can't remember what mine looked like. take a look in here- http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

Ah.. if you have a spare car to hit with the 1mm grinding discs then you could look at a few areas. Strip out the interior of the spares car and see how feasable it is to slice out the inside panels of the B and C pillars. The A pillar is usually well-supported by the windscreen, but the middle of the box up the B pillars and across the roof and floor would be more likely to flex. Is there a strut across the roof above the B pillar to double the thickness of, and a piece across the floor between the B pillars?? The C pillar suffers from the vent holes in both inside and outside panels, and I know they flexed in the old Datsuns enough for the back window to pop out. The springs mount just below the C pillar, so the stress concentrates there. You can buy or make the cross-strut bars shown in red here, and make the reinforcing panels shown in green. Just imagine picking a toy car up like that and twisting it front and back. It will be interesting to see what other guys reckon-

What model Corolla? So, is this right- You turn the ignition key and the ignition light comes on You turn to 'start' and the starter motor goes but the motor doesn't spin? If the starter turns, surely the motor turns as well? Are you sure the starter is turning over and the motor isn't?? or is the solenoid going "click" and the starter not turning over?? What happens to the lights when you hit 'start'?? Do they dim or go out? Are these brake lights on the dash or at the back of the car? My KE70 doesn't have a brake light on the dash I think. Is this when you short out the two terminals on the starter motor to bypass the solenoid? Does the solenoid throw the starter Bendix gear forward and engage the flywheel or does the starter motor just whine as it turns in place?? The solenoid should make a distinct 'clunk' as it engages the starter gear on the flywheel. Sounds like the solenoid isn't throwing the starter gears into the flywheel, but answer those questions and we can work it out. maybe the battery is a dud if the ignition lights go dim.

In the end, they are not a great car for rally driving, like the 240Z or the Stratos. Most sports cars have the driver sitting too low and too far back because of the low roofline and hence the visibility is not good. You can't put the battery or the spare wheel in the back seat because you can't get in there with a 2door. Give me a 4door sedan any day... KE70 or Datsun 1600 ! Looks cool though.

It won't be long before the new 86 is selling for less than the $22k they want there. They would be hitting over $25,000 landed and on the road here.

It sounds like its leaning out, so it dies when the choke is off. Check for airleaks in the manifold, use an aerosol or oil or just a tube in your ear. Make sure all the nuts and bolts on the manifolds are up tight. Run it warm then boot it and when it splutters turn it off immediately. Take the top off the carb and see what the fuel level is, and compare that to the level when it is turned off when idling nicely. If the level is low it could be the fuel pump is not happy, or a blockage in the line somewhere. Then lastly strip & clean the carb. Use a syringe to push petrol through the drillings after you've unscrewed the jets and flushed them out.

Hasitha you will struggle to find much on that engine as it really is just an industrial unit. With the long stroke it won't rev very high and it has never been regarded as an enthusiast's choice. The compression ratio is 9.1:1, the same as most K motors, so it should take turbocharging OK. Here's the Toyota workshop manual; for it. http://images.toyotakijang.multiply.multiplycontent.com/attachment/0/T79igAooCH0AAFBv5Xs1/Toyota%207K%20Engine%20Repair%20Manual.pdf?key=toyotakijang:journal:31&nmid=560968192

Nah, sadly we joined the long list of DNFs, with 12 of 14stages done. Steve was running around 30th during the event, but while the car is great fun to drive the tail is skating over the top of the gravel instead of gripping. Once we get it to squat it will turn the torque into speed, hopefully before the next event in Feb.

Have a great time everyone, a spare day you can spend in the shed!

That refuel was spent being busy getting spotlights fitted onto a car that had obviously never been driven with them on... they pointed to the ground and jammed on the grille! So we hadn't dome anything about tyres with more immediate problems. By midnight he had run out of tyres, run out of brakes (down to the last 1mm and no spares...) and run out of 'lateness', so couldn't do stages 13 & 14... Sad, but a big education in how much work needs to go into rallying. We had spent it all on the car and not had time to even consider servicing, which is what killed it in the end. Anyway, luckily his Mum came along to watch and organised us all into the hotel she was booked into, rather than sleeping on the floor at a mate's place. We crashed and his dad and I were up at 7am to start the trip home before it got too hot. We climbed up onto the highlands of New England and got back to the woolshed after lunch. No slacking, we pulled the seats out, blew the whole car out with an airgun then hit it all over with a water-blaster, inside and out. Then into the shed and up on stands for an inspection. After making a list we crashed for an early night and next morning I was up and gone on the 600km trip back home in the KE70. So, there it sits and gets worked on until Feb 16th 2013!!

Things were fine until after second refuel (AND the 33L tank used 20L each time!) when he had two punctures from ripping the tyres down through the canvas. As they had done 5 rallies and were only half worn we hadn't thought to replace them, but this new arrangement was ripping them down. One stage had the control official with his 12V compressor blowing up a sinking tyre until the 10second count!

That day was stinking hot, I don't know how the control officials stayed alive, but I was sweating just standing still in the shade. The drop-out rate was pretty high, half the field, but the mighty 18RG gave no problems at all. We had taken the oil cooler off as superfluous and it seemed that it was. They have a reputation for suffering oil surge, and the stock sump had no extra baffles fitted, but we just added an extra half a litre of oil in case and it was OK.

His dad and I did 'The Old Dudes in the KE70' trip around to the end of the stages and caught up at the end of Stage 2. All I could see was a dirt-covered turnip with a helmet on and a grin splitting the face in half as he yelled "Yeah bitch, THAT's what I'm talking about!!" So we figured the car was working better than ever! I didn't get enough time to take a lot of photos, but I did notice that a lot of the competition were Datsuns, straight out of my days in the '70s and '80s rallying.

Saturday we loaded it onto Steve's dad's farm truck and headed off for a 3hour drive to the coast, Steve & I in The Girl's KE70 and navigator Adam in with his Dad. We still hadn't replaced the stock rims with rally tyres, so we were flat-out as the first cars left. When it came to car 45's turn they drove up the road only to find the Terratrip didn't work! I'd checked it turned on, but not being used to terrtrips I never checked it actually counted, and the parts car brakes didn't have the right clearance for the sensor! So they headed off without a Terratrip (or an intercom... another problem we'd missed...)

Down to the day before the rally, I had pulled the butterflies out of the DCOEs and re-set them, and checked the float levels and made sure the rubber hoses were clean and OK as I was swapping the fuel feed around from front to back and shortening all the lines. Starting it, the carbs opened perfectly and idled, but it wouldn't run above idle and it crawled along on one carb. We stripped the tops off to check and found the front carb low in fuel, so checked the pump flow rate. With a stroke of brilliance Steve said to use the wine bottle full of fuel to top up the empty carb & try it, and the motor ran fine... so we stripped the carb tops once again and took it all inside at midnight. On the kitchen table I found I couldn't see through the T-piece very well, where the first carb was fed, and Steve got a screwdriver then pushed the mud-wasp's nest out of the pipe! Re-assembled, the carbs tuned up beautifully.

We had the body going back together and as usual the bonnet didn't really fit, until I fitted the cross-strut bar and wound on some grunt. Suddenly the bonnet had 4mm down each side! but it leaned on the tower, not on the wings welded to the top rings, just the way I wanted it!

It turned out to be a solid chunk of steel on each end!

The Landcruiser steering bar was cut up and modified into an adjustable cross-strut bar. This took quite a bit of cardboard modelling & engineering, but it worked well.