altezzaclub

The headlight power comes from the alternator direct to the 4pole relay at the top, then into the two bulbs, then through the 5pole relay to eath. The dashboard switch turns on the 4pole relay, and the 5pole relay switches low beam to high beam. The 6mm wire is too hard to work with, and massive overkill really, so if I did it again I'd get 4mm. As I only had soldering gear and no wire crimper I soldered everything, so first job was to trim off the plastic ends. Then I cut the wires to length and soldered on the terminals. This is where joining two wires at one terminal was difficult. Only one relay had a mounting bracket, so I made one out of alloy sheet and bolted them both to the engine bay behind the battery. This meant taking the plastic out of the mudguard, so I sprayed a bit of rustkill everywhere while I was under there. They mounted here- One slides on and the non-mounted one got a garden tie! The earth wires were the first on.

OK, the KE70 has pathetic headlights, even at 60kph! So the first thing I tried was replacing ONE bulb with a 100/90watt halogen. This was a pain as the three 'wings' were not quite in the same place so I had to cut one off and re-rivet it back on a few mm around the edge. Then I found the difference in brightness to be very small! A bit of research found that the power goes straight to the bulbs, then earths back up the steering column and through the switch. Never a good idea, my old Datsuns were the same and we always re-routed those! So I decided to run relays on the lights and just go alternator-relay-bulb-earth. First I tested the idea- I set up the wife's digital SLR camera on the tripod, pointed it at one headlight beam on the garage door and read the F-stop, 5.6. Then I put a wire from the battery to the bulb and straight to earth and read it again, this time 7.1. That one F-stop is double the light getting in! Next was off to the spares shop to buy- Bosch 4pole relay $12 Narva 5pole relay $10 6M of 6mmwire (too big!) $11 3 30amp fuse holders $6 2 30amp fuses and three 15amps $1.50 (spare of each!) Big spade and ring terminals $5 ...and a few extra bits that you will find in the reply I made further down!! This circuit doesn't have the blue 'highbeam' light working, so I added that later! The wiring diagram I 'borrowed' from a 4WD club article and modified for the KE.

So.. when you say 'electric dizzy', is that a transistorised (electronic) one without points? You're right, the reisistor will normally reduce the voltage to the coil, and the coil is designed to run on that then start on 'over-voltage'. I took my power for the electronic unit from the +ve side of the resistor, which cut it out of the circuit.

For timing without a dwell meter or a timing light- Assuming you have set the points gap.... Pull the spark plugs out to start with, put a 19mm on the crank pulley nut and turn it over to get the PULLEY mark lined up with the MOTOR 10deg mark. With the dizzy cap off, loosen the dizzy clamp bolt so you can just turn it a few mm. Turn the ignition on to get dash lights, then turn the dizzy clockwise a few mm. That should close the ponts. Turn the dizzy anti-clockwise a few mm and it will open the points and will spark. You should hear the 'crack' as the coil discharges. Do it a couple of times and stop just as it happens, then tighten the dizzy clamp bolt. Remember to take the 19mm spanner off! If it pinks under load, turn the dizzy clockwise a couple of mm. 10 to 12deg advance should be fine, but the Good Book says 8deg. Dwell is 46deg, which is another way of measuring the points gap, and the gap with feeler gauges is 0.45mm or 18thou If not, go buy a timing light, it will last you all your life! They just pick up the spark pulse from the number one lead and flash, so you should see the pulley mark at 8deg as in the photo.

LoL! Perfect choice of model by Supercheap! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&feature=related

LoL !!!! I don't believe it!! Supercheap have put up a special "how to change points on a 4K motor" just for you!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c&feature=related

just Google it Jara, there will be videos on Youtube about basic tuning stuff like that. The internet is just brilliant for that sort of learning. Still, there should be someone around Richmond who can help.

Broken ring on a piston. It fails to hold the piston steady and you are hearing the tick of the pston slapping in the bore as it changes direction. Otherwise we need more info about what happens to the tick when it idles, (could be tappet) or the timing.(could be pinking) ..and we need it in English.

Start your own thread Zak! Read this- http://www.rollaclub...the-girls-ke70/

Get out of Seednee and find a rust-free Rolla in the country. The mechanical parts are easy to replace, but a rusty body full of bog is a death-trap in these cars when someone hits you in their SUV. Don't pay more than $2000, preferably $1000 or under, they come up now and then in Gumtree or locally. DON'T buy anything modified, and you will probably find the autos are in better (less-thrashed) condition than the manuals. If you want stories of excitment and adventure looking for Corollas, PM Flopsyfrog and ask him about the Bogans in the banjo-playing backwoods of NSW! :laff:

Don't worry about it, its just fast enough for an L-plater! Do you know how to tune the ignition?? If not, research how to set points and timing, try it and come back to us. Was it running fine for the previous owner? The only way to really find out is go for a drag against another stock 4K. We bought an auto, changed to manual, did the carb/cams/exhaust and its a little flyer now. It was OK with the auto, but nowhere near as quick and sparkly as the manual. Do everything as done in here- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Well, you can check the timing easily enough. There will be a mark on the front pulley for TDC. The first mark to come up should be TDC then they will mark every 5deg before TDC out to 20deg or so. You want to set it around 8deg before TDC. Then take the dizzy cap off, loosen the dizzy and turn it a few degrees from where it is 'backwards. (opposite to he way it normally turns) The points should be closed then, and as you turn it forwards the points will open and a spark will jump as the coil fires. You don't need to turn it more than about 10minutes on a clock face. You just tighten the dizzy up at that point and try it. Before you loosen the dizzy turn the motor by hand until the point's rubbing block is up on the square shoulder of the points cam. Check the open points to see if the point's faces are flat (no volcano on one side and mining pit on the other) and check the maximum gap on the points. Should be around 0.45mm on the 4K. Basic ignition tuning, everyone who owns a Rolla must be able to do it...

After fitting the oxy sensors and fuel mixture display to mine I'd do the same every time. You can drive around in different conditions and see it going rich or lean in real-time terms. For what you're spending on jets and chokes it might be worthwhile. An oxy sensor from a wrecker & a Jarcar or whichever display.

Yeah, wiring you have to short out the ignition lockout that the auto has, and the revese lights were quite different between a few cars as guys posted up their own ones. I'd say get a multimeter and sort that out. You will have an active wire left over that is live as the lights are turned on- used to iluminate the auto selector so now you can use it for anything. Grab the clutch cable firewall cone and rivet it onto the firewall, and don't forget the clutch cable feeds in the opposite way to what you expect, up from the bottom I think it is.

All of KE70.com is broken, so I assume they've had a server malfunction in the redirect from the front page. Hopefully they will get it all back up and then we can copy it over here as a backup.

Surly it depends on the rate of spin you put on the S/C?? So the pulley diameters determine the boost, just boost it to 5psi, then 8psi then.... Are you gong to fit a blow-off valve to limit the boost? You could fit a pair of head gaskets, or cut a 2mm blank out of steel, the sort of things we did while rallying.

I don't think the injector cleaners do much, the tar is very hard to dissolve. I made a good one while I was chemist at CRC in Auckland, but sadly..... ..... it dissolved the plastic bottles! :laff: The Subaru one has a good reputation.

Give me a day or two and I'll put it all up on here if the KE70.com link isn't fixed. We bought a donor wreck to get everything, including the funny metal cone that holds the clutch cable onto the firewall. That way we just took off the auto d'shaft nose at the uni joint and fitted the manual UJ/nose and combined the two shafts.. http://www.ke70.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1493&hl=

I know nothing a all about an MSD, but I can tell you that you will need a rotating trigger to tell the coil when to fire. Something will rotate on the rotor shaft and sweep past a sensor. Either points, an optical system or a magnetic system. The electronic dizzy I have was made for a 5K and has a magnetic trigger.

That's because you have to take the float off to find it. I'll see if I can find a picture. here you go- You can see that a tiny hair or piece of dirt sitting on the needle cone will stop it sealing and petrol continues to flood into the carb.

That's one thing matt paint helps to hide. It will probably cost the same as gloss paint, they just add matting agent to the paint. Do you still want several coats? or is this just a graffiti can and run job?

Always a good start. Then electrics, so pop the plugs and see what colour they are, then crank it and see if you get good spark. Check points gap & timing. Could be condenser, so make sure spark is fat. If the plugs look rich a bit of shit may be under the float valve, and if the plugs are lean you might have crap in the main jet. Easiest to take the carb off & just give the jets a once-over, blowing out the passages or hose them out with a syringe full of petrol.

Nice! You were lucky to find that- look after it and it will last for years.

True- the $350 to buy one was sort-of OK, but the $600 a year to have some company administer it would mount up! http://www.brickhousesecurity.com/gps-gsm-tracker.html

With the lousy summer a lot of veges are late, the tomatoes are just ripening now. The courtyard beans are just reaching the deck, but the early ones by the tomaotes have formed a long tunnel to walk under. They're up the deck rails to the top. We've got about 70sqM as vege gardens, so we give stuff away when its all too much. One 6mx2.5M plot will get the biochar and I'll empty the concrete compost bin in with it. I've never bought fertiliser of any sort, we just compost all the vege scraps, weeds, chooken shit & stuff. Biochar was designed to utalise wheat stalks and similar lightweight dry fibre, so this is pushing it a bit. I'll make a sliding door throttle for the bottom, a better seal for the lid and try it again. I think it needs an extension on the chimney with a vent cut in it so the flames are all combusted inside it.