altezzaclub

I went for ram air rather than just cold air, and the effect can be quite dramatic. An AFM is vital to see the mixture change, and I made a release valve to blow out the excess pressure. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

The cam should have numbers/letter stamped on the back of it, which will refer to the manufacturer & the grind. Otherwise you will have to draw a graph for both inlet & exhaust lobes using a dial guage and a protractor, so you plot lift against degrees of rotation and get a beautiful bell-shaped normal curve. Actually, i suppose you only need the lift at 50thou, max lift and when it opens & shuts a valve, as all those are published by the cam grinders. The compression ratio means putting a piece of flat plastic over the chamber with a hole in it, sealed on with grease. (as are the valves) Then fill the chamber through the hole with turps from a burette or pipette. You should get a volume of 30-35ml, so you can easily work out the ratio between the chamber plus the head gasket (about 5ml) to the cylinder+chamber+gasket. If you want to know how much to skim off to get a certain ratio, mark the edges of the chamber on graph paper, cut it out & count the squares to get the area. 9or weigh it against a known area of paper) Then you can calcuate the cylinder (area X skim depth) you will be milling off to increase the compression. Google yourself stupid with the mathmatics of fluid flow then decide on what porting to do, matching all manifolds and carbs/extractors. Aren't you glad you never bunked school on maths days! Bits here in post #11- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Pop the sump off the block and look at one main bearing and one big-end. If they are new you will see, and if they look a bit worn you can use plasti-gauge to measure what gap they have. You should be able to see crisp clear hone marks in the cylindes if it has been honed for new rings. I wouldn't bother with roller rockers yet. Get the flywheel lightened, get all parts balanced and get it running. You can decide between twin DCOEs or quads off a motorbike, it depends on how much room you have under the bonnet. You'll need extractors & a free-flow exhaust. Grab an electronic dizzy and have it re-curved to suit the motor once you have it running. then put your money into the suspension & brakes! Hold those horrible leaf springs in place, get good spring and shock rates for weekend warrior work and fat sway bars. then put money into a close ratio gearbox & LSD. (don't weld the diff..) Take plenty of photos and post them up as you do it!

The block won't need anything else done to it, but if you are doing a full rebuild like that then having everything balanced would be good for longer life. They would balance the crank, front pulley, rods, pistons, flywheel & clutch. It would make life at 6000rpm much smoother.

..and a lot of the whine may be the crownwheel/pinion setup, which is the hard part of doing one yourself. I was quoted $1000+ to rebuild a manual one we had that whined, so we've just stuck with the auto one.

Nice! Are you running the dizzy vac off manifold vac? I see a brake boost line going in there don't I?? You could 'T'-piece into there for vac, just do a temporary setup and see what effect it has as the max vac at idle may introduce other problems.

Before you pull it apart, do a compression test. That will give you an idea if you need to replace rings or rebore. Otherwise you can leave the pistons in and just remove the crankshaft for polishing and replace the bearings, & lighten the flywheel, which is what I did. if you're happy to spend the money then either rebore/hone and fit new rings, new bearings, valve grind & skim the head for extra compression. The advantage is that it gets the block stripped and cleaned in an engineer's bath and you can have the whole rotating assembly , pistons/crank/clutch all balanced so it revs smoothly and freely.

No, I'm afraid I've never had a 4A, but this sounds like classic flooding. Cold start sounds good.. What sort of choke has it got?? Automatic? One that works off water temp? Maybe the choke is not going off completely..

When you hold the carb in your hands (off the car) it should shoot petrol clean across the garage if you open the throttle. I think if you look down the throats with a torch you can see the jet of petrol being pumped in too. How did you check it was working?

What specs does the cam have Heath, and what else has been done to the engine? Carbs, exhaust, compression etc..

Sounds like its flooding. Maybe the carb absorbs the heat of the engine bay when you turn it off & the fuel in the bowl boils into the inlet manifold. Is it completely stock??

18R-G !! How about any of the 18R motors, they were used in Celicas...

Clutch... its a cable clutch, so you pull the outer cable away from the firewall and slip the circlip into a groove just in front of the firewall fitting. That should give you an inch or so of freeplay before you feel the resistance of the pressure plate as you push the pedal down. It sounds like you have all freeplay and no clutch movement. Wiring... you'll need a wiring diagram with colour codes.

Ah, "1984" by George Orwell... A very clear look into the future from 1948 when he wrote it. That, and his "Animal Farm" should both be textbooks at school! Plough your way through "Atlas Shrugged" by Ayn Rand sometime, also about where Govts are heading with the way they stymie business and run everyone's life. If this is the Al Steiner you mean I'll read some of his work. Ta. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Kayti23/Al_Steiner

That does look good! Shows how they really fcked up with fat plastic bumpers and a slanty nose!

I wondered if it was too advanced at idle so it either detonates or tries to run backwards every few seconds... I can't really think of much else that would cause an intermittent clonk. Lets see what it sounds like.....

Yes, that sounds like a relay. But why is it starting to work, then stopping?? See if it has constant power when you turn the lights on, and make sure it has the earth it needs. I suppose its the horrible "earth back through the dipswitch" problem. You might ahve to study the relay diagram and run a wire to earth to see if it works then. If the dash lights die when you use the indicators don't worry. That's not a problem, its a KE70 character!

On a sideways note, how much is the quote to reco it and what are they replacing?? Mine has a little whine in every gear except 4th, but the layshaft bearings were about $300 !!

Crank end seal or rear of that terrible sump gasket... So, it doesn't sound like the bearings are worn out., and the timing chain is more of a clatter. What timing advance are you running at idle? Can you post up a video of it?? Even just a sound file.

Have you started a build thread on it? Somewhere so we can see what you're planning and what parts you have...

Does the oil light go out instantly when you start it?? Does the oil light glimmer a little at idle when warm?? The oil pump is at its worst when going slowly at idle, so any lack of oil pressure will be noticed then. Even worn bearings are more noticeable at idle, so it could be that. Is it a distinct heavy clonk, not a tapping sound? Culprits could be big end bearings, main bearings, piston ring broken or small end bearing.... or a tappet problem, but none of them are really at such a long interval. Timing chain would be another suspect, it may rattle evey couple of seconds as it whips the slack in and out. They go silent under load. I did have a ring break and it tapped away at the lights suddenly one day then vanished. Wheh it came back the week after it was very noticeable and had eaten a hole in the edge of the piston!

I would've thought the runaway throttles in the USA would have put people off handing your life over to a cheap computer... The Altezza is not sharp in its rev up & down, its a funny semi-DBW where it has a cable and a complicated motor/sensor setup in the throttle body. The KE70 on twin Sus on the other hand... :)

NRMA badge in the grille, dashboard fold-out sun thingy, definately original rims & tyre size, tiny exhaust tip, always clean and polished... then wear a hat and a grey wig!

The box is probably the same except for the 5th added on, and if you spend most your time driving at 80kph or less the 5th won't do much. The early 4speeds had a higher 2nd gear, so they were actually better than the later ones. Do a compression test and see which is the best motor.

in real life the admin is a parking meter nazi ! I wonder if they're going to pretend the BRZ-86 is all-Subaru??

Can an egineer make one for you at that price?? I've just had my local general engineer lathe me up a spacer in aluminium (although the first one he did was brass) about 30mm diam by 20mm long. It holds the cross-hatched bit on the shaft here with a certain freeplay, replacing a circlip. He machined it up and threaded the inside of the shaft to the allen screw he had. That was $30, although i told him he was mad & gave him $50.