altezzaclub

Ducting... get the heat out before it builds up.

Take the cable off at the carb end and see that the pedal & cable move smoothly & freely. If they do then its in the carb linkages somewhere, or a broken return spring..

What was behind it and under the RX7?? Austin Healey? MG-B?

Well, funny you should mention that Boss.... I think its the best place to weld them, you would machine both sides to a cone and build them up again to be ground off. That would at least have the bearing spread the load across the join. I'm no welder, so it really depends on what they're made of and what a welding shop reckons. The exhaust company working on the rally Stanza we had managed to break the input shaft of the Nissan factory CR gearbox we were using. ("just driving it up on the ramps..." Yeah right) We had that welded and it lasted until we went over a yump flat-out in 5th one night, when it snapped beside the weld. The second time it was welded was more successful, I don't think we ever had trouble with it again, so that could take a 160bhp hammering.

Nah- such pessimists! I mean, how reliable is a 4K crank? How often do they break? Almost never! They are over-engineered and bulletproof, so there is a lot of redundancy built in there. Even if it ran for a year maxed at 6,000rpm its a great proof of concept. Cost might be something else, there are engineers in Orange that do those sorts of jobs on mining machinery, but I imagine they aren't cheap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OtSq62J610&feature=related look it up on here- No other answer!

Yes, but probably Jaycar have some electronic kit that will do it. You need some sort of ECU to read the input from a CAS and send a variable signal to the coil. The variable part will be needed to have an advance curve related to rpm. Look up the Megajolt DIS (distributorless ignition system) and ask them if it will handle such weird timing. I think a lot of them are programmed for firing 180deg apart. Then you start thinking .. the ECU can take account of temperature so does cold/warm mixture if it was injected, so if I just add 7K injectors and if I fitted an oxy sensor and... ..it never stops!

That's easier- have someone pull the box over so it makes the noise while you crawl underneath & look for it. It sounds like engine/g'box mounts problem, letting the engine/box rub somewhere. Grab a long screwdriver and put your ear against it while touching the blade to various parts of the box & motor.

Ah yes, I thought I'd answered you before Josh- maybe you didn't see it...

You will have to decide what head work you want done, unshrouding valves and such-like, then measure the area of the combustion chamber and its volume. From that you can calculate how much to tell the engineer to skim off the head to get your desired compression. Its about 5years of work learning all this shit and making mistakes, but don't let that stop you. Read this- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

LoL!!! I hadn't thought of the dizzy! Forget it- fully electronic with a crank angle sensor! The crank I was thinking could be sliced through the three main-bearing journals then re-welded and ground to size. The oilways would need re-driling too. I don't know if the cam can be similarly treated, but with welding these days they can do damm near anything. Slice between the lobes in the same way as the crank and re-weld it.

You can buy them in 4WD, like almost any Jap car.. http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/toyota/camry/1988_8/1656/

Fascinating stuff- love to see you do it! So it will accelerate a bike faster in a similar way to a lightened flywheel. http://darkriderindia.blogspot.com/2010/02/cross-plane-crankshaft.html

Yes, you could pick any firing order from the cam you use, but it always ends up with an asymmetrical spread of 90deg divisions between cylinders firing. I had to draw diagrams of pistons out to 720deg to check! :laff:

Do you just want the noise of a grumpy idle, or do you have a use for the better performance in a certain rev range that a re-ground cam can bring?? Go read a lot more on this site and come back with a list of what you want from the car when you've finished modding it, what you want to do to get there, and how much money you have. You'll need to sort carbs, exhaust, head porting, balancing, drivetrain etc. $10grand would build you a nice 4K....

What do they look like afterwards?? Clean break across the whole belt? Stripped apart down one side? Inside face worn and polished? They're not meant to touch the bottom of the pulley, so if any pulley is shiny at the bottom it is too worn & the stress on the belt is wrong.

If the gauge gets shorted out I believe it goes to max reading, so it could also be in the wiring anywhere from the gauge to the sender. Hopefully a new sender unit sorted it out. I can't see the pump delivering more than 60 or 70psi a the most, and that is when cold.

Why the two motors?? Cheaper than fixing the RWD one? Are you keeping a receipt list? gasket sets etc? Seems a good conversion... Its an option if the CA20 in my Pintara blows up.

I think you'd have to make a crank from scratch. You could cut one up and re-weld it, but that welding would have to be both perfect and amazingly accurate. You only have a handful of thou to grind each journal and fit undersized bearings. Then you'd need to sort the balance weights, and they would be bigger than stock wouldn't they? For the amount of power being made it wouldn't be hard for a good engineer to make one up, something lightweight & it doesn't need to be that strong a steel, but I imagine it would be expensive!

Thanks Dave- so the computer runs that, it can obviously tell if the key is just 'on' or the motor is running. Check the heavy starter leads too Alex, both to starter and earth return. If they are tight then either the solenoid contacts are burnt out or the starter brushes or windings.

Key "on" should power the fuel pump and coil setup. Key to "start" should send power to the solenoid sitting on top of the starter motor, which throws the starter gear into the flywheel ring gear and puts power to starter windings. The "click" is the gear moving, but you're not getting power through the starter windings. You should hear the fuel pump if you listen to it while someone else turns the key on after it has sat overnight.

I have that too. I think its a rocker that is worn with a groove in it where the valve top is. The feeler gauge bridges the groove so it is set on the original rocker face, but the valve goes up inside a couple of thou. I've seen it on rockers before. Another one comes in on the choke cable... pull the choke cable a couple of mm and the background tapping changes! I think the dash acts as a drum face and amplfies some vibration.

Have an engineer drill three more holes, 3o'clock, 6o'clock, 9o'clock such that they give you 5deg, 10deg 15deg then one tooth difference. Datsun's had three holes to pick from and we used to drill the 4th. That Norwegian gear looks lovely!

Battery flat, or solenoid worn out, or dry & rusty so it doesn't kick in, or starter windings burned out.....

OK, and I assume it was a new chain for the rebuild... so there's really no option except the adjustable cam gear?