altezzaclub

df what flywheel are you going to use?? The most common change in the club is to swap the dual-mass for a TRD single flywheel of about half the weight. The motor has an 'interesting' resonance between 3200-2800 on over-run, it buzzes through the car, so it will be good to see if it happens in another body.

Bringing Altezzas in ran into the emissions catch that Aussie uses to keep grey imports out. To get an Altezza registered you have to pay several thousand dollars for full emissions testing, even though other 3SGEs have passed. Tall motor isn't it! Still, it wll be a rocket when its done.

Come on! Head skim... port and polish... Weber & extractors as it goes back together! 5K pistons!! Isn't there a decent cam lying around?

One every month or two comes up. There are still some amazing one-owner under 100,000km cars turning up. That Adelaide one on Carsales someone posted up last week was gone by the next day. here- 5minutes on Gumtree SA- Cheap but OK http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-toyota-corolla-ke70-1982-W0QQAdIdZ301835173 The one up on here- http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-KE70-130-000-genuine-kms-with-books-granny-owner-W0QQAdIdZ311293717 A dual-fuel wagon http://sa.gumtree.com.au/c-Cars-Vehicles-Motorbikes-Parts-cars-KE70-Corolla-Wagon-LPG-4sp-W0QQAdIdZ311211400

lol- not one of mine! Although this is one of my happy altezzaclub members...

$3k is steep I reckon. There have been a couple of overrated examples of different Corollas on here recently for less than that, so unless you really want that particular model you could get a superb KE70 for under $2k. You can use them daily, but don't expect to go fast, or even keep up with the traffic with an auto on the original motor. However that is all easy to fix unless you want to keep it completely original.

We used to just cut a piece out of the steering arms under the struts and re-weld them. I'm sure that would be illegal on the road these days, but it used to work for rallying.

Well, pick a motor- Have you set your mind on the bling side of it to want a screaming 1600cc that does 8500rpm, or would a Holden V6 do the job? I'd say the 1UZ V8 would make the laziest slider, its been done and all the tech details are there, but you won't get it road registered I think. If not then one of the turbo'd Nissan motors would be most common conversion. The Holden V6 would make a great road car for lazy cruising torque and they are as cheap as chips. Another factor would be the age of the motor, as a lot of old motors would need a full rebuild before you fitted them Otherwise you start converting FWD motors into RWD.

My receipt just says ""6001 Spigot Bearing $5"" from Central West Brake & Clutch.

That's just to buy the engines and rebuld them! The conversion will double the cost.. :laff: Seriously, unless you do all the work yourself and can modify/fabricate parts in an engineering shop, $5k won't go anywhere.

Well, if you're admittedly too lazy to do the research and fck around, I can't see you completing the project! Fit a cam, exhaust, & carbs to the 4K. If it needs bearings and a strip then bore it to 80mm & fit flat 5K pistons. When you're bored, fit dished 5K pistons & turbo it. While you run that around look for a 7K, which is still a reasonably straight-forward swap. With a 7K fitted you have everything you need.

The fact that its been done before is a great advantage. There will be all the knowledge of what needs to be done an what mistakes to avoid. In the end they're a production motor & should be reliable in stock trim.

The motor is easier to swap than fixing the body, so make sure the rest of the car is good. If there's no rust and its generally tidy its got to be worth $1500-2k.

Usual story is... find the wire on the tank & pull off, turn on key, check for 12volts at the end of the wire. If no power, check the gauge end. If there is 12V there, short it out to earth. Gauge should go to full. If gauge doesn't move then problem is in the gauge. Pull dash apart and check gauge contacts etc.

+ exactly how you let the clutch up & feed in the power.... Do you pause as it start to grip? Do you let it up in one smooth motion? I've had a clutch in a Sentra for over 200,000km and it still had meat on when I changed the rear crank seal. That Sentra wagon was loaded every day with my workmates and gear, and pulled overloaded trailers occasioally.... other people destroy clutches adnd break axles. The 13second 9,500rpm motor in here ran on stock g'box and diff- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/48083-robbie-butler-79-drag-news/

Pics & gossip!!

I'm afraid so, yours were described as "loose". Most mechanics/fitters seem to think "as tight as possible" is the correct torque. We have a little 6"x6" rubber grip-net in the kitchen for jar lids. Brilliant for this sort of problem.

Rattle gun is best, but if not, try wrapping a strip of rag around the strut shaft several times then anchor it with a screwdriver. If you don't want that shock just grab it with a plumber's wrench. The strut top is meant to have a flat in the shaft hole that should stop it turning. Is your one ripped out?

..and would you know how to set them?? Tell us what you can do and can't do on a car and we will know how to explain it to you. Points- they must have the rubbing block on the tip of the dizzy cam when you set them, and that is their maximum gap. The moment the cam goes past they start to close, and when closed they flow power through the coil to earth. Then when they open on the next cam shoulder power stops flowing and builds up in the coil. So, you will need the motor in the right part of its rotation to set the points, and if you change the gap you will change the timing & that will also need to be reset. Put a spot of grease on the point's rubbing block, otherwise it wears quickly when dry. How was it running over the last week?? Why did it stop starting?

Sooo.... what was the problem? What did you do?

Does it face to the disc and sit a couple of mm further in than the backplate? The wear tab that tells you when to change pads? It hits the disc and makes a terrible grinding screech when the pads are worn down to their last few mm.

I blocked everything where there is a red dot, and just kept the green lines. Then threw the whole lot out and fitted SUs and extractors. SOOO much better now than when we bought it! Take a look- http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page__p__445727__fromsearch__1#entry445727

Spray the StartUbastard down the carb while someone is cranking it. You're right, any spark will fire it, but you might only be getting a spark with the plug out. It is much harder to fire that plug at 160psi inside the motor. hmm... in your case, the throttle body, not the carb! :laff:

Stick it behind the front seats! You'r going to be chopping the car to bits to make it fit, including the Supra or Skyline gearbox and a Hilux diff, so just mid-mount it and don't end up with a nose-heavy over-powered car that won't handle. Ideally, fit IRS and bolt the gearbox straight onto the diff! :laff:

That is the theory! Go rallying on the 4-2-1 and racing on the 4-1. I haven't seen the tri-Y for sale for ages, everyone seems to make 4-1.