altezzaclub

lol!! I was thinking of the hundreds of thousands of hockey-stick mirrors that were thrown away in NZ because we hated them on all the Jap imports that started flooding in during the '80s.... Having a Jap import was the pits in the early days, so the dealers got rid of the mirrors and the space-saver spare tyres. A great job Uncle, it looks just nicely balanced.

Could be- A lot of these manufacturers use sub-contractors. Factory Lexus/Toyota are KYBs with a different paint job...

How does it idle without the throttle cable or the dizzy line on?? Just plug the vac advance line at the dizzy and and see. You might have the throttle cable too tight so it can't go back to idle. and if the dizzy is pulling too much advance it will increse the idle speed. That might come fron using a manifold vacuum port on the carb instead of a ported vacuum port. Other than that it could be an air leak through a gasket or an air port somewhere. Bogging down badly is also a symptom of being too lean... how about the float level?? Blocked jet??

Well, it certainly sorts out the usual "how to inject your K motor" questions!! Damm they are nice!

cheers- yeah riiight.... How long can you drive a 4K before its just too slow??

I could ask the local wrecker what he wants for doors if you like, they're usually rust-free out here in the country. Postage might kill it though!

Yes- pinking is always the killer.. How about a knock sensor kit from an electronics shop. At least you will hear it pre-igniting on a dyno run. I assume you still have a mechanical dizzy/ignition on it, so you can alter the weights & springs to give the curve you need.

Altezza runs 11.5 to one straight from the factory. That's what VVTi does! What do you want the car to do?? If you are racing it then 13 to one is possible, but it won't last long. We had a couple of racing heads given to us for the rally car but we couldn't keep them together. You work a motor harder for longer when you're rallying. Road use and weekend warrior stuff would be OK at 11 to 1 as Trev said. I don't know when the valves will hit the pistons for you, it depends on what cam you're using & how its timed.

The 5K with a cheap turbo might do it for you.. old but effective compared to a 4k! Why does no-one look at MX5 motor/boxes?? They're modern, efficient on fuel and already in RWD configuration... The 1800 with a 6speed sounds good. The motor mount & gearbox fabrication is not hard, you will spend more time and money if you have to make up an inlet system and intercooler piping. Good luck with whatever you pick- take lots of photos and tell us the problems you come across. This sort of thing-

Check the timing with a light if you can, or manually if you haven't got a timing light. Retarded timing (less than 8deg) would indicate a worn points gap and make it hard to start. The fuel drain idea sounds good. You could check that by lifting the air cleaner before you start it and looking down the carb while you pull the throttle cable a few times. You should see petrol squirting down the throat from the pump jet working. If you have petrol there then the carb has enough in to start it.

Have you checked the tuning?? Plugs clean and unworn? Points gap correct? Timing at 8-10deg?? Does it run fine once started? Low fuel usage, no misfires, no flat spots, revs out cleanly?? or does it have a carburettor problem that stops it starting easily. It should start instantly and run smoothly, that's how old egines work! You will need a Corolla manual to learn about these things, that's how old engines keep working!!

$20 for that adjustable arm I bought. What else is in a Redline 'kit'??

Haha- the confusion is between KE70 and K50.... K40 and K50 are the manual boxes in the K series cars. 4speed and 5speed respectively. They can be found in any Kseries car as they get fitted into earlier models, but they have long and short tail sections so the gear levers can be in different places. They have 3K, 4K and 5K motors in them. The K50 is just an overdrive fitted to the back of a K40, so they swap instantly. The Tseries cars and gearboxes are quite different.

Lighten the flywheel before you fit it- knock a couple of Kg off it without going mad. The motor will spin up faster in the lower gears.

I suppose the Altezza is the quickest up top, it hauls 180kph in 3rd, never mind 6th, but I had a turbo manual Cifero in the 90s that had a really good midrange. Most exciting would be a range of super-lightweight Datsun 1600 rally cars with 140bhp under them!

...or a 5K. It will make the waiting a little more enjoyable!

I want to know about Cameron's rocketship!!! He hasn't incinerated himself yet....

If its anything like the SUs, what you need are two brackets (mounting arms) to hold a pivoting axle with a quadrant welded onto it. I made the arms from a bit of shelving and bought a bolt for the axle. The quadrant was on an old carb. Buy/make a pair of drilled arms that clamp to the axle and the throttle butterfly shaft, and buy a Redline adjustable arm to go between them. Difficult to photograph with everything in the way now, but take a look through people's build topics and there will be other ideas. Use three springs, one to return the cable and one each on the carbs if they don't already have them.

You're probably right Evan- I'm just trying to stop the guys who want to take it for a joyride or get home from the pub, rather than someone who really wants it as a car. I can't see anyone going to a lot of trouble for an ordinary KE70. (that's more the worry I have about the Altezza!) Locks that are bolted in are OK, it takes too long to lie under a car with a spanner while holding the top nut at the same time. These guys steal a car where they can be gone in a minute or two. (Gone in sixty seconds I suppose!) Slo, when my dad-in-law gave my wife her Standard 10 to drive I think it had a chain welded to the floor that you put around the gearlever and padlocked! Must have been good as no-one ever stole it! :hmm: He had cornered the market in 1950s Standards in Cape Town and gave one to each of his kids when they got their licence. The wife's one had a passenger's door that would fly open if you hit a bump in a tight right-hand corner...

The dual springs are to eliminate the natural resonance you get with any spring, not to add any extra pressure on the valve. Valve bounce will come from the harmonics of the spring at a certain rev range, so you add a sprng that doesn't have bounce at those revs.

:hmm: Ah, love it!! Non-fatal education is a wonderful thing!! (fatal education really makes sure you never repeat your mistakes!)

That's what "I" said!! :hmm:

mmm..... nice photos! Action shots too!

OMG!! Lookout! Ruunnnn.... Chin which lead do you mean?? The high-voltage lead from the coil to the dizzy or the low-voltage lead from the coil to the dizzy?? Turn on the ignition, take off the dizzy cap and open the points with a flatblade screwdriver a couple of times. You should see a spark. Let us know.

possibly... I can remember a young lady in my youth I swear could do that.... :hmm: I do prefer my design, but that one does look a lot better!