altezzaclub

Use worn rally tyres on the back actually- I used to go track racing with them on my Datsun 1600 because the independent rear end had so much grip and the motor had no power! It would drift with smoking tyres all the way around the hairpin & the crowd would go wild!

..and the PCV valve works the opposite way to what one might expect. It flows a lot at wide-open throttle and closes off at idle. So it uses the high manifold vacuum at idle to shut the valves hard against a spring, and that's when you might see fumes coming out of the filter. On the open road under acceleration the PCV valve is open and sucking the fumes out of the engine, as that's the time you normally get maximum blowby.

That is where fresh air goes INTO the PCV system. It goes out through the brown hose behind it and into the manifold to be burnt. Stupid really, it isn't going to clear the motor of fumes by travelling 50mm, but I suspect the Govt said "you must have a PCV system" so they fitted the cheapest and easiest one. Check the valve sticking into the tappet cover at the end of the brown hose. It must flow air one way only. (towards the manifold) If it is gummed up then it won't suck the fumes out. Give it a good clean in brake cleaner and make sure the ball is loose when you shake it and seating well. If the valve is working and fumes come out the "in" filter then the motor is producing more blow-by than the PCV system can handle. That would suggest that the rings are pretty shot!

yeah, 'rollas have much better heaters than air conditioners!! Mind you, we could do a big trip at the same time he did, June/July in the interior is pretty good!

Yeah we used to heat the stripped strut tube in a vice with an oxy torch and put a length of pipe on the stub axle to bend it. You can measure the triangle that the strut makes in the car and work out how far to bend it to get the negative you want. Then we'd cut 75mm off a spare tube, slice it lengthwise and weld the half-tubes on over the bend to reinforce it. Then go rallying over jumps...

So, it runs smoothly on all 4 when it idles or its under no load, such as when you pull a plug lead off. It misfires when its under load such as changng down to 3rd or holding 80kph. That could be a plug breaking down under load or any of the electrical components. How well does it pull up through the gears doing a full throttle 20-100kph? Smoothly all the way? That would eliminate all the electrical stuff under load. Best way to find it is on a dyno, where you can check the electrics on an 'scope while its under load. The cheap option is to get it misfiring, immediately grab neutral and switch it off, then look at the plugs for colour, although this is harder to see. If its not a clear misfire on a cylinder then you might have fuel issues. Hard to guess, but maybe it leans out when working hard. That should show on a 20-100 acceleration test too.

Oh.. Now I understand this! :P

A 4A conversion in a KE70 might actually lower the price! The more that get modified, crashed and wrecked the higher the value goes for the granny-spec ones left. Watching the forums for 12months has shown a lot of quite nice stock vehicles get bought, lowered, fitted with a noisy exhaust, called "Drift Spec" then sold. All that's happened is the car has moved from being a nice daily to a 'P'-platers thrash machine and is off the road within a year. The value of all these cars is perfectly accurate providng its a free market- people sell for what they can get and people buy for what they can afford. If you need to sell it fast you'll sell it for less. While they are 30year old cars they are small RWDs, and that just does not exist anymore. An overweight over-priced BMW 318 is just not a comparison, and there is nothing else after 1984 or so. So you're up for a six cylinder if you want RWD, and somehow doing donuts in a FWD Ford laser just doesn't have that sex appeal! They're just one step behind the Datsun 1600s that are going for 10grand... In a few years when you guys are in your forties you'll all be saying "I remember when those KEs were only three grand! You kids are nuts paying $20grand for them!" I can remember when Austin Healey 3000s were only a few grand (which I didn't have in 1965!) and I saw one the other day for sale at $90,000!

That's what I'm using, a Z68. ...and that's a bit of a worry!

Haha! Well done Rob, that's a score! Valves are spun clean, starting on the head today & phoning around chasing cost of balancing & skim..

Ok, now you know its a non-interference motor. Next- The best gasket set is no doubt a factory Toyota one! For the best of the losers, I don't know. Next- Yes, the distributor has to be timed exactly to coincide with the crankshaft, the same as the cams. The fact that you asked that question rings alarm bells about your ability to make this motor work, so I suggest you do a lot of reading about how all the bits of an engine work together. There is stacks of really good stuff on the net. Make sure you thoroughly know how an engine works before you hit the 'start' button, or have a mate who is a mechanic go over everything you've touched.

That's an interesting question toymotar.. The vac advance unit is there to retard the ignition timing when you floor the accelerator so you get better initial acceleration, and then it advances it back up as you lift off the pedal and cruise. With less air going in on an almost-closed throttle you need more advance to burn it, so more advance drops fuel usage on part throttles. On wide-open throttle the cylinder air density is higher and it burns faster, so less advance. If we take the 'rolla down to Sydney from Orange it pinks at sea level as we can handle more advance at 2500ft. Without it you will not get the full spark advance unless you add more static advance at idle, and so add advance right through the rev range perhaps in places you don't want it. I don't know what it pulls, but this guy says it adds 15degrees, so max advance is taken from 36 out to 50deg. So instead of 8 to 10deg at idle you'd be looking for 25deg to let the mechanical advance get up to 50!! Unfortunately you won't be able to handle 50deg with wide-open throttle at 4000rpm because of detonation, so without a vac unit you will not get as much advance into the system. http://www.thesavoy.de/html/vacuum_advance.html As Rob said, you can get the dizzy re-graphed to suit the carb/cam setup and they will alter the springs and weights under the dizzy base to maximise the engine's potential. You will still not get the effect from spark retarding when you floor it or the fuel efficiency from the vac advance. Where it gets interesting is that the two points for getting vacuum, the carb or the inlet manifold, have completely different results. So hooking it into the brake booster line will be most interesting to see what that does to your advance at idle. It should suddenly add a handfull of degrees of advance on and you will have to retard the dizzy or lower the idle speed to compensate. I do wonder if all the guys who say their Corolla goes so much better with 12 or 15degrees of advance actually have a broken vac unit, or they disconnected it. What do you think Mr Philbey?

ask them- http://www.redlineauto.com.au/products/category/BFLXHVLE

I've just bought a flapper wheel to try against the 3" long length of 6mm steel rod with a slot cut down it I've used for years for polishing ports. There are some weird shapes in metal that do particular jobs around here, and I also have the 1800long 30mm axle that makes a superb pry bar... family heirloom from my dad!

Warm it up and spray with degreaser then let it soak for a few minutes. I'm using "5Star 3 in 1 " at the moment, but I've used a home-made mix of turps and detergent before, which is basically all those cans of degreaser are.

..not to mention the "mandatory sentencing for attacks on Police and public officers" that he pointed out. Are they somehow better or more important than the general public? THEY are the people who work to pay the 'public servants' wages... I thought Tassie was were all the weird people live... :jamie: He is dead right, he has been punished for a crime he was uninvolved in without a trial. Seeing its Aussie it has to be a kangaroo court! :lolcry:

I can't remember what the hell I was cruising for when I came across this site, but it got me thinking.. I've certainly seen some badly made filters, but I've never looked inside one. On the Altezza I only ever use genuine Toyota ones, and I'm going to do the same with the KE after reading this! http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html Has anyone got stories of damage caused by dud filters or reasons about which ones to buy?

I would- See if you suffer misfire from too low an input voltage, rather than run it on too high a voltage & boil the coil. Looks like it fits an '80 VW Kombi, amoungst others! :lolcry: http://www.bus-boys.com/tuneup.html This it? http://www.streetperformance.com/part/bosc...1997-00041.html

haha! Ask Tojo all about it! He should have a twin SU manifold arriving in Norway soon!

Stock cars?? Round and round in second?

That is true- here's a bit about it. http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/122.cfm

It shouldn't affect the starter motor. As Falken said, the cars run low-voltage coils designed to work at 6 or 8volts, and when you hit the 'start' part of the ignition it bypasses the resistor and feeds the battery voltage directly to the coil. With the starter working the battery can only give 8volts, so the coil works perfectly to start the car. The coil should never run at 12volts. Release the key and the ballast resistor cuts back in to drop the normal 12v back to 8 for the coil. Everything else in the car is designed to run on 12V. The option was to have a 12V coil running at only 8volts trying to start the car. That's what the high-powered coil Falken has is designed to do. If you bypass the resisitor then your 8volt coil is getting 12volts pumped through it all the time.

That's a perfectly normal ride for a dumped car... Get softer springs, matched shocks and suitable bump stops... or raise it up! I've got cut springs in mine, but its not 'dumped'. The ride is slightly firmer than stock, but the truth is that the shorter the spring, the stiffer the ride.

How important are the last 1000revs? I imaging it won't be hard to get a motor to do 2000-6000 with small or medium porting, it will be harder to get the 6000-7000 working quickly and keep the bottom end, and most difficult to get that last 1000rpm. I'm sure you'll need big ports up around 7500rpm, but more important will be the choice of cam. Which end can you chop off easiest?? or how much can you lighten the crank & flywheel & clutch??

Go a shock shop that has a shock & spring tester and get shocks that are matched to your springs. Kings will probably have data on their springs and recommended shocks to suit. Konis would be better than most, fully adjustable and able to be rebuilt.