kickn5k Posted July 3, 2014 Report Posted July 3, 2014 (edited) It only seems like we were talking about piston options for this a couple of months ago. Looks to be coming along nicely. Go the alloy big block!! Haha Edited July 3, 2014 by kickn5k 1 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 It only seems like we were talking about piston options for this a couple of months ago. Looks to be coming along nicely. Go the alloy big block!! Haha Thanks mate. I'm impatient now. :D Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 Dave Ill measure the size of our setup tomorrow for you. I think it was only 150 wide, and with the suby filter being 165 it might make things a bit tight. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Posted July 3, 2014 I don't think we need anything more than thte correct size opening in the box and the lid from a filter box that suits to make it work nicely. A filter is just rectangular, rubber and has a step in the rubber to locate it, so I think we can just bypass the hassle of mounting the lower edge from the box to ours. Quote
ke70dave Posted July 4, 2014 Report Posted July 4, 2014 Hmm yeah 165 is too big, wasnt sure how wide we made it. I think you might be right with the filter, just drop it into a hole in the box. makes it easy to make too, just need to make sure that our clipping method is reliable. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Posted July 4, 2014 Thats right, I guess it would be best if all the clips were either on the box or on the lid, so we either just have to mount the clips or make small retainer edges for them to catch onto. Adding a vaccum port ar at least a couple of threaded bosses for different sized nipples would be good. I think we need one 10mm one to feed idle control, maybe bigger, and something to give a map signal. Wondering if I should tune this car on an afm or whether I should stick with MAP, I don't know anything much about afms, different types, and their use in tuning as much as TPS vs MAP tuning like I was running. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 4, 2014 Author Report Posted July 4, 2014 (edited) 33-2058 Outside Width: 5.125 in (130 mm) Outside Length: 13.75 in (349 mm) AIR FILTER, DODGE RAM 2500/3500 8.0L 1994-2002 33-2386 Outside Width: 5.125 in (130 mm) Outside Length: 14.375 in (365 mm) MINI COOPER 1.6L-L4 2007 33-2085 Outside Width: 5.188 in (132 mm) Outside Length: 11.938 in (303 mm) DODGE VIPER V10-8.0L 1992-96 33-2181 Outside Width: 5.188 in (132 mm) Outside Length: 13.688 in (348 mm) MERCEDES C/CLK/E/GL/ML/R/S/SL-CLASS 98-10 33-2218 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 11.938 in (303 mm) ALFA ROMEO 147 1.6L-I4 16V & 2.0L-I4 16V; 2001 33-2374 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 12.25 in (311 mm) NISSAN ALTIMA 2.5L-L4; 2007-2013 33-2474 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 12.563 in (319 mm) MERCEDES BENZ CLS550; 2012 (2 PER BOX) 33-2197 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 12.625 in (321 mm) FIAT PUNTO II 1.2L-16V 80 HP; 2000 33-2046 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 13.125 in (333 mm) JEEP WRANGLER,2.5L & 4.0L W/FI 33-2172 Outside Width: 5.25 in (133 mm) Outside Length: 14.375 in (365 mm) SEAT IBIZA 1.6L & 1.8L; 2000 33-2865 Outside Width: 5.313 in (135 mm) Outside Length: 13.438 in (341 mm) VW JETTA/PASSAT 05-10, TIGUAN 07-10, GTI 09-10, EOS 06-09 33-2486 Outside Width: 5.375 in (137 mm) Outside Length: 13.063 in (332 mm) AIR FILTER; SCION iQ 1.3L; 2012-2014 33-2988 Outside Width: 5.438 in (138 mm) Outside Length: 11.938 in (303 mm) TOYOTA URBAN CRUISER L4-1.4L, DSL; 2010-2012 33-2599 Outside Width: 5.5 in (140 mm) Outside Length: 13.375 in (340 mm) BMW 525 2.5 '88-ON;FORD ESCORT 33-2347 Outside Width: 5.563 in (141 mm) Outside Length: 13 in (330 mm) FORD ESCAPE & MERCURY MARINER HYBRIDS 2.3L-L4; 06 33-2210 Outside Width: 5.563 in (141 mm) Outside Length: 13.063 in (332 mm) FORD MONDEO 1.8L & 2.0L; 2001 33-2631 Outside Width: 5.563 in (141 mm) Outside Length: 14.031 in (356 mm) FIAT RITMO/SEAT 1.7 D.FIAT 4434894 CA 4264 356X140 33-2926 Outside Width: 5.625 in (143 mm) Outside Length: 11.875 in (302 mm) TOYOTA AVENSIS 2.2L-L4 DSL; 2005 33-2425 Outside Width: 5.625 in (143 mm) Outside Length: 12 in (305 mm) ACURA RL 3.7L V6, 2009 33-2277 Outside Width: 5.625 in (143 mm) Outside Length: 12.938 in (329 mm) HONDA ACCORD 3.0L-V6; 2003-2007 33-2299 Outside Width: 5.625 in (143 mm) Outside Length: 13 in (330 mm) ACURA TL 04-06, RL 05-08; HONDA ACCORD HYBRID 05-07 33-2165 Outside Width: 5.75 in (146 mm) Outside Length: 12 in (305 mm) SAAB 9-3, 1998-2000 33-2078 Outside Width: 5.75 in (146 mm) Outside Length: 12.75 in (324 mm) BMW 525I L6-2.5L 24V (M50) 33-2023 Outside Width: 5.75 in (146 mm) Outside Length: 12.813 in (325 mm) AIR FILTER, FORD 4.9L 87-96, 5.0L 87-96, 5.8L 87-97, 7.5L 87-97 33-2936 Outside Width: 5.75 in (146 mm) Outside Length: 14.25 in (362 mm) MINI COOPER S 1.6L-L4; 2006 (EU), 2007 (US) 33-2507 Outside Width: 5.781 in (147 mm) Outside Length: 13.469 in (342 mm) ALFA ROMEO ALFETTA 75-82 1.6GT 33-2739 Outside Width: 5.813 in (148 mm) Outside Length: 12.125 in (308 mm) TOYOTA CARINA E 2.0L 33-2115-1 Outside Width: 5.813 in (148 mm) Outside Length: 12.563 in (319 mm) FORD/MERCURY COUGAR 95-02, CONTOUR 95-00, MYSTIQUE 95-00 33-2697 Outside Width: 5.813 in (148 mm) Outside Length: 14.375 in (365 mm) FORD MONDEO 1.8L TURBO DIESEL, 1993-ON 33-2463 Outside Width: 5.875 in (149 mm) Outside Length: 11.813 in (300 mm) SUZUKI SX4 2.0L-L4, 2010-2011 33-2099 Outside Width: 5.875 in (149 mm) Outside Length: 12.313 in (313 mm) FORD E350 ECONOLINE 7.5L V8 1996 33-2922 Outside Width: 5.875 in (149 mm) Outside Length: 12.375 in (314 mm) PERODUA MYVI 1.3L-L4; 2006-2012 33-2626 Outside Width: 5.906 in (150 mm) Outside Length: 13.781 in (350 mm) FIAT 1.7D,1.9D 1988 Stole this from the custom search on the K and N site. Searched for filters 300-375mm x 130-150mm. Plenty of suspects for the wreckers hunt there, just need something with a large intake hose that points a useful direction, and a good clip system. Edited July 4, 2014 by LittleRedSpirit Quote
kickn5k Posted July 5, 2014 Report Posted July 5, 2014 Seeing as you've got ITB's on TPS/MAP tuning down, I'd stick with that. The majority of AFM's can be a fair restriction anyway. I back to back tested this with the FJ20 datto, when I got it running on the sprint 500. First run @ 19psi made 185rwkw(with the AFM plumbed but not using for tuning) then ditched it and power went to 215rwkw and everything happens 1,500-2,000rpm earlier. It certainly wouldn't be the case for all AFM's, people seem to get good results with Z32 ones. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 5, 2014 Author Report Posted July 5, 2014 Been googling the cars in the list above to see whats worth using. Jeep wrangler lid looks pretty good. A fairly large inlet pipe. Plus it will point towards where the air is being brought in, under the radiator. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Posted July 6, 2014 Have been looking at the neatest way to operate the heater. I reckon Ive got it sussed. The Monaro type heater tap is vacuum operated, so i think Ill use this just hooked up to a fuel vapour purge solenoid. Then it will be electrically controllable and not mechanical, and means I can put it anywhere the heater hoses, vac line and wiring can reach. I didnt like the cable coming through the firewall, so this will give me bunch more options. Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Posted July 6, 2014 Bit of a dead end on the vacuum valve for the heater, its always open unless vacuum is applied to close it, so it will work reverse to what I need. Had a look and found one that would work, but its 19mm nipples, and not 16. Its a 3 connection bypas style one, so I would need a T piece also but thats no big deal. Anyone know of any car with one thats closed until vacuum is applied? I could cut up the other type and make it actuate backwards but its a lot of work on a $30 part. Quote
Medicine_Man Posted July 6, 2014 Report Posted July 6, 2014 can you just use a vacuum switching valve to control if it gets vacuum or not? Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 6, 2014 Author Report Posted July 6, 2014 I think the problem will be as you rev the engine vacuum disappears and you end up pumping spurts through the heater as the vacuum needs to be constant to keep it closed. If vacuum opened it, then you could use it fine with a purge solenid to control it, but it works the other way around. I could still modify the part by flipping the actuator around, as I can't find any part thats going to do what I want so far. Quote
Bowler Posted July 8, 2014 Report Posted July 8, 2014 Could you possibly run it with a one-way valve to hold vacuum, then bypass through the purge solenoid via a couple of tees? 1 Quote
LittleRedSpirit Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Posted July 8, 2014 Thats not a bad idea. I was trying to work out how to do it in my head with a one way valve. I guess if you have a one way valve, then a t piece connected to a purge solenoid to open the line after the valve from the tee, you can maintain vacuum and then release it electronically, allowing the heater to work. The only question becomes, the open line is a vacuum leak, and will make the car run a few rpm faster, so I need to be able to source clean filtered air that goes through it from some source that is filtered but not under vacuum, and that doesnt lift rpms. Maybe if there are 2 purge solenoids, one on and one off at the same time, so normally the line to the vac tap is open and via a one way valve, with the t piece as described, and there is a solenoid to open or close the t piece, which lets the vacuum tap have air and thus lose vacuum. To stop the motor sucking this air, maybe we need another solenoid to close the line at the same time to the engine, so it cannot apply vacuum to the open air and suck air in. Maybe I can just use a purge solenoid that isnt a simple open and close of a line, but it bypasses through its own little filter cap when it needs to drop vacuum to the tap. Then I just need one, and when its off (open) vacuum is applied to the tap and when it bypasses it will close the line that normally allows vacuum and give atmospheric pressure through to the tap, while blocking off the line to the engine natively. As long as those small one way valves you get in the small vacuum line are adequate to hold enough vacuum to keep the heater closed, then this should work. I wonder if unsing a 3 nipple bypass type heater vac tap will stop excessive pressure forcing open the valve and overpowering the vacuum, since it can just flow anyhow. Then I need a T piece in my heater return to allow either line to flow back in, but thats easy. Its a few more hoses than I was hoping for, but I can hide most of this under the airbox I think. Cheers Bowler. Quote
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