Got one of the wheel arches tubbed.

Sometimes you just can't get any thing done when you have to work for a living.

So that's how it's done, weld over the car not under it haha

 

Nice work

Thanks Carlos, Flipping it over makes these jobs much more pleasant and easy.

 

Just a few "small mods" on the floor to make the IRS fit.

Love your work so far mate, keep those pics coming. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Hi Craig as said above love your workmanship on this and keep the great work up and keep them photos coming. I'm about to start a new project myself KE25 302 windsor motor show n shine car not burn out car and i really like how you tub your rear end it was how i had in mind and now that i've seen it done right i know that is the way i will go anyway as said keep the great work up and i will follow with interest.

 

Cheers:-Stuart.(Thomas dad).

Thanks Mick and Stuart.

Most of this stuff is straight forward except the fill in piece for the wheel arch tub.

Its quite a strange shape, even though it looks straight on one edge and half mooned as it follows the quarter panel.

Its impossible to get the right shape useing card as a template because the steel wont bend in two directions on the same plane.

To keep the arch flat as it meets the quarter panel, I had to cut and fit the plate from scratch.

Once one side is done, you can use it as a template for the other side.

Laid out flat, Its the shape of a banana. Bizzar.

Most of the rear floor mods are finished including the sub frame mounts.

Craig your crazy ,carry on .

 

rob

hahah this is unreal =D !

Rob, I think you might be right. I had the same thought when I was neck deep in sanding dust making the Group B Celica body kit.

How quickly we forget. lol..

 

Hi Teddy.

I have the sub frame tacked in its final position.

The diff is now bolted in place, just have to fabricate some mounts.

Still thinking about those, so Ive moved on to the front end for now.

What are you planning for the outside of the cross-member??

They all look like they should have the same mount.. a heavy bolt fixed to the car with a split rubber bush in the crossmember and diff mount holes.

 

If you plan a solid mount then make a sheetmetal cylinder like you made the cage feet and weld them onto the shell so the crossmember and diff mounts drop onto them. Easy to fit a captive nut in them and have a large washer with a rubber mat supporting the crossmembers. The diameter fit would have to be pretty good, tapered to just too big, which is why they use big rubber bushes to take up any errors.

The cross member is in place but still needs finishing to close the cut in the rails and box in the ends.

It will become a part of the shell.

I know what you mean with the diff mounts. But they will only go onto the thin floor metal.

I will make a new box section cross member that will reach and weld to the rails and slot the centre to take the diff mount bolts.

It can also be taged to the floor for extra braceing.

I have to be a little careful here as its very close to upsetting the fuel tank position.

very close to upsetting the fuel tank position.

Which I assume is a little 30L steel box in the boot...

 

But they will only go onto the thin floor metal.

Yeah, I thought that would be the case, so it makes attachment quite difficult. The Datsun 1600s have a neat system, but it would hard to adapt here.

 

Will you make the rear diff/crossmember bolts accessible from inside the boot?? A couple of holes drilled in the floor with rubber plugs and you stick a socket extentsion down them to unbolt the back of the diff. ...or is the tank going to stop that too?

I still want to use the corolla tank, I had a look inside and its still in perfect condition. No rust after all these years

Ill still need a surge tank for the efi maybe, Ill look at that when the time comes.

 

The diff has 2 vertical bolts holding a bracket on top of the diff. These will be right under the fuel tank.

To remove the diff I can still get to the 2 horizontal bolts holding the cross member to the bracket from under the car.

As well as the 8 bolts on the front x member.