NickZ

Well in the next few weeks its going to change again. I'm fitting a 4AGE 20 Valve. I was thiking 1GGTE but thats going overboard. The 20V engines are cheap now...$595 from ichiban. I will post updates as i do the conversion.

The RA40 celica struts are used as well as the lower controll arm with the steering arm on the bottom of the strut. Everything is the same almost, the holes on the bottom of the struts are like 2mm diffrent to the KE one, thats why you need to use the other items. The only thing I changed was the spring seat on the strut, I put the KE30 spring seat on and the original ke30 spring and strut top. Everything bolted up without any more modification. Camber is the same, but the track of the front is about 12mm wider, I removed my 6 mm spacers and the tires sit in the same place on the lip of the guard. The RA40 disk is 254mm, 12.7 thickness The KE30 disk is 218mm, 12.7 thickness and the brake pad contact patch is easy double that of the KE30 pad. so for the money its the best upgrade.

Was that price with tires? You need to come and visit to collect your rollaclub sticker

Ive finished my RA40 Brake upgrade....easy conversion and only cost me $200. still looks small but it is a 17" wheel. I just have to convert the rear to disk brake.

WOW..i like it. I want one. There is a guy here in tassie that has oe with a 4AGZE in it, Goes very well :D

Yeah a 150hp shot of NOS maybe do the trick :D

mikeys toy...nah...replace your aircon with a supercharger. I must get some newer pics of it as its a little diffrent now.

Now ive seen it all. A Picture says 1000 words.

Just what I'm after...but i not paying $10,000.

I don't think a photoshop wheel chop should be counted... Real excel with real hotwires on it.

and this http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?s...ic=2832&hl=4kze

I'm not sure about the diffrences to the corona and RA40 celica struts, looking at planet fookstar pics they look thesame. I just finished fitting the RA40 struts,lower control arm with steering arm to my KE30...i took me a total of 4 hours to do the job. everything bolts up. i had to change the lower spring plate off the ke30 strut, so youll need a welder or someone that can weld, use the ke30 tops and jobs done. the wheel sits out approx 10mm more. i think i may have alittle positive camber, but ill know when i take it for a wheel aligment. I'm on the look out for adjustable camber tops so i can add a little more negitive camber.

there is PINK,red,yellow,white

you coulnt have searched for the supercharging bit too hard...i posted one not long ago 4KZE

To answer a question from way back. no drama fitting 17", But mine where front wheel fitment...but my RA40 struts fix the front as they clear the strut and just sit at the edge of the wheel arch, look like they where made for it, the rear needed spacers, everything cleared but they sat too far under..i had about 3 inches to the lip of the wheel arch, I now run 38mm bolt on spacers on the rear, they now sit at the wheel arch too. My car is also lowered 2 inches all round.

gee you people must hate my wheels then....I think 17" look just right on my KE30. i run 205/40/17 tires. yes they are a little bigger but not by much. Downside of these wheels is axle tramp as there is no sidewall flex. if i buy wheels again ill be getting a minium of 18"

The simmons.

yeah $900 buy price, and it was a dog of a car, as it sits now its $3400

I'm guessing you where reading from earlier. now it jumps to 7000 easy....but you say yours goes higher, its not standard then..they let go from 7300+ ive been told (self distruct). its easy , I stripped the guts out of the 2T dizzy, got a machine shop to make a plug to go into the top approx 10cm tall and made it a very tight fit, then make a hole for the shank of the 20V Dizzy to fit into tight, using the original 2t shaft cut the top plate off where the mechanical advance was,so i was left with a shaft just coming out of the lower body on the dizzy, attacked the 20v dizzy shaft with a grinder and made a T , cut a slot in the 2t shaft and they all mate together when put together. like the dizzy to oil pump slot/T drive. I don't know how well i explaned that. but I'm sure you can work it out from what i have said. I just have to make a cover for the dizzy now. i got a broken cap, but it would look crappy.

Here are the pics of the new multicoil setup, using 2 como coils and a 4AGE 20V CAS and running a MTX8 Microtech with sequential injection. Yes it was worth it, there is a huge power increase over the normal efi, It runs so smooth.

Yep...just come around and collect it.

hey boys and girls. Rolla club members, the stickers are HERE!

From what i hear sigma control arms will give around -5 deg camber

no point...i didnt make the thread. i was adding input to the original post and someone had said microtechs are bad. and now its become a topic and as topics go we add our input. Manly for future users to read our experiences. quote Super Jamie I then answered super jamie question. and to cover some other questions that may come from this, i did a little comparison between the original 2 ecus Yes I'm a Microtech dealer. but have also installed wolf and haltech and Link ecus. No i couldnt really care less.

the haltech are mid priced....microtech/wolf with ignition about $1100, haltech $1400+,altronic $1800+ motec $2500+, Jaycar under $500, Mega squrit $500+ I think thats about the pricing. I was talking low priced versions of the ecus, the top end haltech are self tuning.